XSeries-forum

X5 just failed MOT due to handbrake being non existent!

Has anyone got any advice or 'Fixes' for the handbrake?

MOT runs out on Monday, so if I could get this repaired over the weekend it would be handy

Thanks in advance

John

Well, the "fix" would depend on the cause of the problem. It could be a broken cable or a seized cable.

When were the handbrake shoes last checked? It is easy to rely on the pad wear indicators and forget that the handbrake relies on separate shoes. I bought one car where the linings had broken free of the shoes.

You will just have to work through methodically. Are both sides non working? If so I would be looking at a seized cable as a start.

Mine failed for same reason. New shoes and proper adjustment for me. All sorted. Remember it needs adjusting at both ends.

Of course you could try cleaning them by driving at about 15mph with the handbrake very lightly on so you can just feel it rubbing. Sometimes will clean them up enough to get their bite back without anything else needed.

[quote="Raj"]
Mine failed for same reason. New shoes and proper adjustment for me. All sorted. Remember it needs adjusting at both ends.

Of course you could try cleaning them by driving at about 15mph with the handbrake very lightly on so you can just feel it rubbing. Sometimes will clean them up enough to get their bite back without anything else needed.
[/quote]

Hi Raj,

Thanks for the info, found a few guides on the net -

http://www.csfrancis.net/BMW/pbdiy.pdf

http://www.bmwownersclub.com/forums/top ... ake-shoes/

Gonna give this ago over the weekend

How can I tell if I need new shoes or not?

Might try driving at about 15mph with the handbrake very lightly and then do the adjustment too

How much did a new set of shoes cost you?

John

Just had the same issue. As my rear brakes had 50+ k miles on I changed pads, disks and shoes. The shoes had completely deteriorated hence no handbrake!

The problem is, if you drive an auto, you invariably don't use the handbrake and it becomes less efficient due to this redundancy. They can also fall apart with no use.

The MOT pass rate is very low at 16% efficiency and often, the trick of driving with the handbrake slightly on can get to that level. Obviously not if they have fallen apart but sometimes this will work.

When mine was tested earlier this year at the local Halfords they used a decelerometer to test the handbrake (4 wheel drive) and it got an advisory for being 18% efficient. A pass anyway. I was then reading through the MOT rules regarding use of the decelerometer and the tester is only required to get the handbrake working to over 16% and then stop testing. By definition, using this method, you would never get much over the 16% minimum so no real reason for the advisory. Perhaps he'd had a shitty day.

Probably worth stripping down the rear wheels and giving eveything a good clean before going for the MOT.

Whats the best way to clean the shoes?

How can I tell if the shoes need replacing, i'm not too fussed if there on there way out as long as I can get them through the MOT

Any advice would be greatly appreciated

John

The only real way is wheels and drums off.

Unless you have access to an introscope/endoscope?? Or radiography equipment!!!!

Ok, I have wheels off, and half way through adjusting the handbrake process, going to take the discs off next,

might sound like a stupid question, but when I can see the shoes, how will i know if there knackered? or will it be obvious?

John

mine also has almost non-existent handbrakes.

had too an advisory 2 years before i got the car. i never changed anything though and both last year and this year (just last weekend) mot passed with not even an advisory!

i used  the 'drive with handbrake on' method. i do it slightly differently though: at about 30mph momentarily apply hand brakes for about 15 secs. drive about a minute, do it again. repeat this process about 5 times. that should do it.

btw new mot rules - if u have a tow bar fitted those electronics need to be tested too. the test equipment came up with Christmas lights for me although all the lights were working. i had to explain that the car does a 'light check' on the trailer lights as well, which is what creates the Christmas lights effect on the led test device.

Fortunately only the 7-pin system!  If they test the OEM BMW 13-pin system they would all fail as one circuit isn't wired up!  >:(.  My X6 and Mini both having their towbars rewired for free by BMW Dealer.

Richard

[quote="X5Sport"]
Fortunately only the 7-pin system!  If they test the OEM BMW 13-pin system they would all fail as one circuit isn't wired up!  >:(.  My X6 and Mini both having their towbars rewired for free by BMW Dealer.

Richard
[/quote]

Mines a 13pin and the guys had a 13pin test kit.

Tbh try the cleaning shoes method as I and others have described by driving the car at low speeds and applying the handbrake. If this doesn't do anything then try adjusting properly. Again if it doesn't help then change the shoes. They are only about £35 or so so no a huge amount and fairly straight forward to change.

All done!!

Had a nightmare getting the old discs off, tried the rubber hammer all round method with no luck, ended up adding a bit of WD-40 in the hole and tapping with a large hammer!

Shoes were a bit dirty so cleaned them up. The shoes little wheel adjuster was almost fully done up, so undone it about 6-8mm before it was hard to get the disc back on, then about 8 clicks back and all back together.

On to the adjustment at the handbrake, pulled the handbrake up 2 clicks. Tighten the cable tension
adjustment nuts until its just possible to turn the rear wheels with a littke resistance. Released the handbrake and made sure the wheels turns freely. Pulled up handbrake and check wheels are locked.

I had to do a couple more adjustments after road testing, (as it would still move forward with handbrake up, in Drive without my foot on the accelerator) but all sorted now.  Tried on a steepish hill, and didnt move. 

Couple of questions though -

How do I know if this is going to be enough to pass the MOT?

When I tighten the nuts at the handbrake, I did them both together, and with the handbrake up 2 clicks, I stopped when there was a little resistance on both wheels, but I couldn't be sure that both sides were giving the same resistance as when i turned 1 wheel the other obviously turned in the opposite direction so I could be getting resistance from either side shoe.

Should I have adjusted both sides at the handbrake independently?


John

Parking brake 'efficiency' is only needed to hold the car on a slope so it sounds OK.  If not just give it a bit more of adjustment.  If you can find a 1/16 slope and after applying the Parking Brake the car stays still then it's a Pass.

Yes you should do each wheel separately.  I used to stop the other wheel from rotating by chocking it with something, or leaving that one on the ground.

Richard