XSeries-forum

Hey Guys,

I had my X converted to LPG a couple of weekends ago (I will put another thread about the install etc.) The installers had to take out my factory subwoofer to put the air compressor pump in that right hand cupboard.

Not that the OEM subwoofer gave that much bass but now its soo tinny. I cannot stand the sound of no bass so I've treated myself to an:
"Orion HCCA 12.2 subwoofer"  (HCCA122 (12inch Dual 2ohm) - Orion Card Audio) and I wanted to go for the  "Orion HCCA 5000 amp" to match but haven't got the funds at the moment so I have an old "JL Audio 1000/v2 Monoblock Class D" (1000/1v2 - Car Audio - Amplifiers - Slash v2 - JL Audio) lying around so I plan on using that for the time being just need to get the connections setup.

I know this has probably been asked a million times and I have read the How To's but I seem to read different install information depending on each person and which factory options they have.

So from factory I have:

• Nav 16:9
• DSP amp
• Professional Hifi Upgrade (Extra speakers in rear doors and factory sub in boot cupboard)

Here are the different options I've seen for tapping the audio:

1. Tap a connection from the OEM sub connector which plugs into the sub. (Post factory Amp)
As shown by BSW in this video - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c0uM8FcSb3c

2. Tap a connection from the feeds to the factory amp from the 16:9 screen  (Pre factory amp)

3. Tap a connection from the rear outputs to speaker doors and use a hi to low convertor (Post amp)

I've heard it's best to get a "clean" signal that hasn't been through factory amp is this right??

Also do I need to get a cable that converts them from 2 normal wires into a Phono plug for the amp phono inputs?

Could someone please recommend which method would be best suited for me?

I need to get a new battery as my Bosch S5 is starting to play up. Typical! just after the LPG tank is in the way now I am thinking about getting a Bosch S6 AGM battery does anyone know if this will fit in the standard place and is it a good battery for car audio?

Thanks!
James

I had a Bosch S6 in mine - it's external dimensions are the same.

Official Battery Guide from Bosch (3.3MB pdf.  Not the easiest book to read.

Direct pdf link

Richard

I cannot comment on your other options as just got the standerd setup at the moment but this guy has gotten some really good feedback on here and other places and offers an RCA output which might be just what you are looking for.

http://www.carphonics.co.uk/bm54upgrades.htm

I am thinking of using him for the amp upgrade and RCA output to run a small "under seat" type sub

Thanks

Tim

I'd go option 1.

I have speaker to line level convertors and they are a pain especially if you get the wrong ones...

Use the tapping to the factory fit sub and bobs your proverbial

[quote="Steamyrotter"]
I'd go option 1.

I have speaker to line level convertors and they are a pain especially if you get the wrong ones...

Use the tapping to the factory fit sub and bobs your proverbial
[/quote]

Sorry if I have got the wrong end of the stick but tapping into the existing sub still isn't "line level" is it, i thought thats just the speaker feed from the factory amp

Not entirely sure as i didn't have sub option on mine.

From research i did there is a sub out (line level) on some setups (just not mine!! - Non nav)
I believe the BM54 units (in the NAV setup) have (or can be modded to have) line outputs.

Always the better way to go as you don't get caught in ground loops and level matching..

Thanks for the replies guys.

Richard - Do you rate that battery? Do you think it withstand a bit of power from the amp?

So if I go with option 1 and take the signal from the Sub connector plug do I still need the high to low convertor or will it already be a "Low" signal already?

Thanks

I went for the S6 because of the warranty duration (not that I'm part Indian, just part Norman French) and it met the requirements of the vehicle in terms of performance.  The S5 would have done just as well.  To me quality is worth paying for and the battery needs to be quality.  I also had two radio transmitters (VHF & UHF) in the car as I'm a radio amateur.  Both can draw 100W each off the battery on transmit.

The X6 has yet to be kitted out with the hardware and low profile (stealth) aerials, but that will be done once the warranty expires.

Richard

Richard, has your amateur radio kit been professionally fitted ?  I, too, have an amateur radio licence and would like a rig properly fitted mobile, never had one deently fitted in a car yet

*decently fitted even, blasted ipad

[quote="james8whippy"]
Thanks for the replies guys.

Richard - Do you rate that battery? Do you think it withstand a bit of power from the amp?

So if I go with option 1 and take the signal from the Sub connector plug do I still need the high to low convertor or will it already be a "Low" signal already?

Thanks
[/quote]

I don't know anything about the converters but I think it's still gunna be "high" level.

Thanks

Tim

[quote="CondorX5"]
Richard, has your amateur radio kit been professionally fitted ?  I, too, have an amateur radio licence and would like a rig properly fitted mobile, never had one deently fitted in a car yet
[/quote]

Always did it myself, but then having spent 5 years in a Police radio fleet workshop and then running a fleet of covert vehicles equipped with all sort of interesting kit for the lot that predated Ofcom, I'm supposed to know what I'm doing.... . Managed to persuade RA to let me keep both my 'B' and 'A' call signs.  I better look out the paperwork as they have to be self renewed every 5 years.

My E53 had the transceiver mounted in the right rear cubby bolted to the cover with black Allen bolts and the head was Velcro taped to the ashtray cover.  Speakers carefully mounted to the right rear and the mic on a special lead to the front.

I resisted the temptation to fit the HF as I thought I might set every airbag within 1/2 mile off at 1kW erp.... . but then trying to do Morse at 70 mph is a tad tricky - not that anyone uses it anymore.  Finding a space for the rig was an issue too!

I used a Kenwood TMD700E as the mobile unit - I think the TMD710E is the latest, and the Kenwoods were very good mobile.  Fed direct from the battery on fused lines.  It has a detachable head which can be mounted away from the transmitter end.  Makes finding holes much easier.  I don't now use any amplification so it would be 50W into the aerials.  Safer with the electronics!!  I could use hi gain antennas I guess, but I wanted to be low profile.

Aerial were micro magnetic 5/8th over 5/8th UHF and 1/4wave on 2m.  One either side at the rear and well away from the GPS.  Never had any EMC issues at all.

73s

Richard

Thats great thanks as always for the helpful replies guys!