XSeries-forum

The wifes X5 has developed an odd steering trait

Full (or almost ful) right lock and reversing off the slightly sloping down drive there is a SINGLE (an I mean single) crack noise which can be vaguely felt . The noise we think comes from the nearside front. It doesn't continue to make the noise though.

Straightening up and driving off doesn't reveal any other noise though

The CRACK noise can also be replicated in forward motion when we go round a very very tight right hander which also rises uphill at the sametime

If it were CV (and there are no splits or oil) wouldn't it be a lot of crack or click noises?

No idea what it is. There is no wheel wobble at speed or anything like that

Suspension bushes?

Sounds strange I know but I have had one do this it was the wheel bearing.

Worth a look also check all bushes and link rods very closley

Good luck

[quote="stevox5"]
Sounds strange I know but I have had one do this it was the wheel bearing.

Worth a look also check all bushes and link rods very closley

Good luck
[/quote]

[quote="X5Sport"]
Suspension bushes?
[/quote]


We've got Event Tyres round on Saturday to replace all four corners. The tyres a well worn and it's running 285 all round even though the front rims are the smaller width 19". Rediculous I know....previous owners...tut

So not only does the steering feel a little heavier this may or may not be the problem or the cause

Whatever, it will be up in the air while the tyres are done.....what can I pull/PUSH twist hit bend to see what it is?


will have levers/hammers at the ready. The arms show no visible damage (crawling underneath) but are covered in crud


parts I should be looking at (I think)

arms
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do ... g=31&fg=05

bearing
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do ... g=31&fg=10

my guess part number 10 where it bolts to the subframe, may get away with tightening it up, it has to be dam tight.

To do it with the wheel off.

1) before jacking the car up measure from the bottom of wheel arch vertically down to the center of the wheel.

2) jack car up and remove wheel as normal

3) using a piece of wood to protect the ball joint behind the brake disk, jack the wheel hub up until the measurement is the same as measured in 1), this gives the impression that the car wheel is on the floor, which is when the arm should be tightened.

Good luck, this worked for me.

Phill

[quote="phill"]
my guess part number 10 where it bolts to the subframe, may get away with tightening it up, it has to be dam tight.

To do it with the wheel off.

1) before jacking the car up measure from the bottom of wheel arch vertically down to the center of the wheel.

2) jack car up and remove wheel as normal

3) using a piece of wood to protect the ball joint behind the brake disk, jack the wheel hub up until the measurement is the same as measured in 1), this gives the impression that the car wheel is on the floor, which is when the arm should be tightened.

Good luck, this worked for me.

Phill
[/quote]

Hi Phil

If I read the diagrams and your reply right then...

Looking at the joints that could click or be worn there appear to be four, 2 are bushes and 2 are ball joints

there are 2 arms, each with  bush at one end and a ball joint at the other. You mention part 10 which appears not to offer fore aft control. Part 6 (Right tension strut) does appear to offer fore/aft control but IIRC part 6 get mentioned most with braking issues....which appear not to be present

Part 10 which you say sould be tight at the bush (part 11) end....is this because you replaced part 10 or had you encountered movement and/or a crack noise?

I had part 10 replaced, but had no problems with them for about 6-8 months then started getting a sharp cracking noise when going round corners, no problem on straight parts. I changed the drop links first and no change. I even tried wobbling part 10 And they were rock solid.
In the end I thought lets try tightening something else, so I tried tightening part 10, I only tightened mine at the subframe / bush end, after that no more cracking noise.
Phill

[quote="phill"]
I had part 10 replaced, but had no problems with them for about 6-8 months then started getting a sharp cracking noise when going round corners, no problem on straight parts. I changed the drop links first and no change. I even tried wobbling part 10 And they were rock solid.
In the end I thought lets try tightening something else, so I tried tightening part 10, I only tightened mine at the subframe / bush end, after that no more cracking noise.
Phill
[/quote]

Cheers Phil....If I can get at it tommorow I'll have a go. I have a reasobale breaker bar and socket so I'll see how it goes. I still can't work out where the noise would come from though as I guess the holes ar not elongated.

Did it feel loose as soon as you had the spanners on it...or did you just take up some slack??

to be honest I thought mine where tight, but with an extra couple of foot bar got another half a turn and that solved it, just remember to tighten when you have jacked the wheel hub to the height measured when the wheel are on the ground.

Phil

[quote="phill"]
to be honest I thought mine where tight, but with an extra couple of foot bar got another half a turn and that solved it, just remember to tighten when you have jacked the wheel hub to the height measured when the wheel are on the ground.

Phil
[/quote]

Well the new tyres are on ( Hankook Ventus 19" by the way0 and the steering is lighter...so that's a result. Downside....I din't have a socket or spanner to hand of the right size. Looks like 18mm and with the bolt thread protruding the only socket I had didn't have enough depth....damn

Looks like tool shopping next

[quote="storminmike"]
[quote="phill"]
to be honest I thought mine where tight, but with an extra couple of foot bar got another half a turn and that solved it, just remember to tighten when you have jacked the wheel hub to the height measured when the wheel are on the ground.

Phil
[/quote]

Well the new tyres are on ( Hankook Ventus 19" by the way0 and the steering is lighter...so that's a result. Downside....I din't have a socket or spanner to hand of the right size. Looks like 18mm and with the bolt thread protruding the only socket I had didn't have enough depth....damn

Looks like tool shopping next
[/quote]

Sorry to resurrect this again but can anyone confirm the spanner and socket size for the control arm bolt at the subframe end?

The NUT end has prutruding thread and needs a deep socket hence the need to purchase the correct one?

bump

seriously...anyone know the spanner socket size for this bolt through the control arm?

please :-[