XSeries-forum

Need some help/advice/thoughts please...

X failed MOT on CV gaiters Saturday late afternoon, grease has just started to leak out (on to the alloys - one tell-tale sign). And after full-lock and fast acceleration I don't get any knocking on either side.

But since the labour cost will be there to change the Gaiters I was thinking of getting the Joints done too. Gaiters I feel failed because the car is now 8.5 years old but the Joints have only got 51k worth of wear and tear. Stories of failure from 65k onwards have been reported plus the exposure to a split Gaiter will potentially leave me with a less than perfect Joint.

So the dilemma is which Joints to go for? I can't find out what the OEM manufacturer for the Joints would be (will call dealer tomorrow when they're open). Rumour has it they don't have just the Joints on their own though.

ECP with their 30% discount have Q-Drive ones for £39.06 each as a complete kit - but I'm concerned about the quality. Need to phone GSF too but similar cost seems to point to a similar part not considered OE.

So what do I go for and what do you think? Any pointers I could ask for, please?

Hard call that one.  I would look at it like this.......

Can you afford to go OE, especially if you can get them discounted?

If you are only changing the gaiters then it doesn't matter, but as that needs drive shafts etc off you might as well change all the gaiters, so if the whole lot are off then think about all four CVJs.  If you're thinking about all four CVJs then what about the drive shaft assemblies?

Can you get complete assemblies at a good discount?

If so.......change the complete assembly as you might be back under there doing it all again in 10,000 miles......and will probably need new gaiters again!

All down to money.....and discounts.  And ultimately hassle.

Richard

Hi Sanj

Main dealer can only supply complete shafts and they are very expensive.

I have changed loads of x5 CV gaiters including both on my own car , if the joints are not noisy I would fit new genuine boot kits from bmw and have the joints washed out and inspected when removed , if confirmed in good condition which i suspect they will be pack with the new grease supplied in the kit and refit.I would be surprised if the joints are worn at that miliage unless the boot has been torn and dirt / water got in for quite a while.

The aftermarket joints are a bit of an unknown quantity in my oppinion so if your joints are ok stick with them.

Cheers

Steve

These an option?  2 year warranty - which is all you'll get from OE anyway.  Advice about getting the fitted ones fully degreased and checked for wear defo good advice though.

Ebay option only a suggestion mind..

R

Gents, thank you. Very much appreciate your input.

I'll make some phone calls tomorrow to see what options I have regards Joints.

My dilemma is purely based on the mileage - 51k may not be that much for the Joints but then again, I could get unlucky. Oh and only the outers have failed (at virtually the same time)!

Our man Jason is pencilled in at mo to the work, so it should be in safe hands in that respect...

All other thoughts greatly appreciated.

I've only ever had to change outer CV boots on my cars. The inner ones get a fairly easy life compared to the outers, which have to contend with compression/ stretching during steering. Would leave the inners alone if they are OK.

As already mentioned by others- if the joints are good, I would be tempted to just change the boots. Of course the joints wear, but they mainly prematurely fail if run for a long period of time with faulty boots, or if the wheel has had a sharp bang against say a kerb (easy to do in the ice/ snow!)

I would stay away from the ebay type complete shafts- you really do pay for what you get. If they fail, you will have to re-pay labour costs, chase replacement and live without the car until they are shipped/back etc. Too much hassle.

If it was me I would fit original boots and leave the joints if inspection deems them OK. (IIRC the boots are shared with some later Audi models).

Again as already mentioned by others BMW only replace complete driveshafts- but do sell replacement boots.

On my previous E53 (the one with 185K when i sold it!) The joints were still good. It did however need 2 sets of outer boots whilst in my ownership- the first replacements subsequently damaged by a 'mechanic' whilst changing the lower arms!

There's a company on ebay that do complete driveshafts for £64 per pair! They have 2 year warrnty on and I had the£ on my last x5 and were perfect, also you can get glue on driveshaft boots (don't laff) I did when I saw them and they were £4 each but did them may 2011 on my x5 I have now and there still perfect so can recommend and with this there would be no labour cost to a man of your genius, If paying labour I would deffo get complete shafts to cure all boots,joints etc in one hit!

When I bought my X5 last october the car dealer said he would put 12 months MOT on it for when I picked it up.
When it went for test it failed on both front CV boots, they fitted new boots, I said if the front pads were low fit new ones and I would pay for the pads, they fitted new pads for me and charged me £45 for the pads.
When I picked it up from the repaires / MOT place, he said it was very common that X5's failed on CV outer boots at around 6 years old.
They have been fine since, no knocking or vibration at all. The trouble we have on the forum is that we always look on the bad side when problems arise this is due to all the problems we read about every day on here, I find it can sometimes spoil the fun of ownership if we are waiting for the next bong!!! and binnacle message to make our hearts and wallets sink.

Right it's defo Cheer up time then.  It's a sunny warm day here in East Anglia and today my car has behaved itself just fine and goes like a bat out of hell......... ) ) )

OK I only went to B&Q for some Meths, but it's still a good BMW Day.

Richard.

Part of my journey home from work involves a 180 hairpin uphill at around 45 degrees, i noted a slight clicking under power with window down last year.

I was very very surprised to source a full outer CV joint including boot and grease for £20.99 delivered to my door! A big heavy piece of kit, 2 year unlimited mileage warranty & OE specification. This was fitted last october by my mechanic - he was impressed with quality and price. 10k miles done, all fine

Now a £5 cheaper!! - honestly a real bargain, i had expected £150-£200 for part!!
http://item.mobileweb.ebay.co.uk/viewit ... 5041638577

Buy it - if you are not convinced then return as no quibble guarantee

I bought a pair of the Q drive CV Joint kits from ECP (you know that anyway Sanj) and had one fitted and have the other sat in the garage. The quality looks pretty good and seems to be doing the job.

I've always gone down the route of 'you get what you pay for' but as DougieV8 has linked you can get genuinely decent parts that are unbranded for cheap. They still have to be made to a certain specification/quality.

The thing is, if you do get what you pay for, then why the bloody hell do these genuine BMW components we have on our motors fail so easily.

A £2,000 sunroof breaks when tilting, £3,000 of superior air suspension can be so sh*t, a simple battery can cause so much electrical grief, etc, etc, etc.

That's coz with the pattern parts, they're made 'down' to a price with a small amount of markup.

BMW's are made 'up' to a price plus a mega mark-up.... >:( >:D

Unfortunately it's always been this way with spares - which does not in any way justify it in my view.  A few years back one of the motorbike newspapers bought a £7k Kawasaki (I think - it was a while back) and broke it for spares and made £20k from the bits!!

Sorry to hear this - mine went at circa 80-90k iirc.

I would go OE boots & most cost effective fitting.....In fact I did just that. Get best your discounted best price from your BMW dealer of choice Rich then negotiate best price fitted with an indy.

Independents obviously don't pay full RRP so I asked the one I used at the time to price match to save the hassle of me supplying/ordering parts.

Got OE mainly for peace of mind & both outer CV joints been fine since. (just one front outer had failed so I got both done to save anticipation of opposite item failing).

Didn't have a puller or feel motivated to do the job myself also for slight fear of breaking something or getting stuck half way through the job.............Sounds a bit pathetic I know :-[

Despite most loyalty at time with one indy I still phoned around & politely made it clear I was doing so.

the only reason ill try anything other than oem is that their usually 1/2 price or better, and its not like the bmw parts are good, some of the failures on these cars at the ages and milages is a complete joke from a suposedly premium brand, all i need say is you get more warrenty on a new 7k kia than you do with a 60k bmw!!  rant over and i would never buy a kia but you know what i mean!

Exactly my point too Mark.

If the components used by BMW are crap then you might as well go non genuine and save a few quid.