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FRONT TENSION STRUT AND REAR SUSPENSION LINK REPLACEMENT.

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x555
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FRONT TENSION STRUT AND REAR SUSPENSION LINK REPLACEMENT.

Post by x555 » Sat Oct 01, 2011 6:31 pm

Here’s a bit of a how to so’s people thinking of attempting this repair have something visual to look at as I know this always helps me…I’ve always been better with pictures than words :rofl:

Firstly here’s the replacement parts ..nearside and offside tie bar/rods (also knows as tension struts) and a nearside rear tie bar/rod (also known as guiding suspension link) part numbers are on real oem for reference.

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Here’s one of the culprits to be replaced…I also add that there is the option of replacing just the bush instead of the whole part but in my case it was easier to replace the part having no press etc.

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As you can see you need to remove several bits of plastic from the inner arch to gain access and visibility to the bush end bolt. It’s tight but you can get a socket on the nut side as well instead of a spanner.

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Including this ducting needing to be pulled to one side(red arrows show screws)to be able to undo the bolt right out…

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Oddly enough I used a 7/8th socket on the drivers side but found it was slipping on the passengers side so I switched to an 18mm socket :scratchhead:
Here is the bush end strut undone and free….TIP leave this in place with the bolt loose but in place as you need to hammer of the other end from the ball joint.

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The magnetic tray is starting to fill now with all the small screws from the plastic parts and the big bolt from the strut.

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Once you have undone the same size nut on the ball joint side you then need to hammer of the strut as the ball joint is tapered….I did confirm this with my BIL (mechanic) before doing so ;) just in case there was a circlip or something holding it on. Be careful as there isn’t much room to swing under there.

Once off the play in the bush was obvious just by twisting it with a screwdriver..

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New against old
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And new one in place Tip…. If the ball joint starts spinning when doing up the nut on that side don’t panic just tap/hammer the strut up onto the tapered thread and this will secure it to be tightened up ;)

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Note… when doing the passenger side there is a different vent that has to be removed to be able to get the bolt right out. It’s held in place by two screws like the other side but also by a plastic lug just in behind the grill vent (sorry forgot to take pics of fixings) BE CAREFUL as the grill is very fragile and also there is a sensor in the vent (air flow sensor in guessing)
Here’s a pic of the vent

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And this is the sensor inside (not the best pic sorry a bit dark) no need to remove this as there is enough lead to prop it up on the brake disk out of the way.

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It’s a dirty job lol but somebody’s gotta do it :lol:

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Onto the rear suspension link and here is the culprit new against old in place..

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Nuts here to be un done ..one at the bush end to release bolt (must be in a certain position to be released as the bolt end is elongated and there is an indent in the thread)and one at the ball joint end both 18mm iirc

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The nearer ball joint end nut was a nightmare as the ball joint just kept spinning around when undoing :headbang: so I got around this by using a 7mm socket on the end of the thread (hexagonal shape) and painstakingly undoing the nut about 2mm a time with each turn of the adjustable spanner.

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And finally after a bit of fiddling around the rear suspension link was in place…..then it was beer o’clock :D

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Hope this helps others if not just for a few pics to refer to before attempting the job.

Just the handbrake to adjust now and hopefully the beast will pass the re MOT
Last edited by x555 on Sun Oct 02, 2011 4:40 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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FRONT TENSION STRUT AND REAR SUSPENSION LINK RPLACEMENT.

Post by JimmySpeed » Sat Oct 01, 2011 7:41 pm

Good work taking the pics fella - for anyone attempting this, the tension strut chasis bolt should be tightened when under load i.e. The car should be on it's wheels and not jacked up, I did mine by driving onto a ramp of bricks - not the safest option but it worked for me. I didn't do this at first, but when I inspected it under load I could see the bush was being stressed unnecessarily as it was twisting because I didn't tighten it under load and then when it was under load it was constantly twisted. I undid it then retightened it under load after seeing that. I imagine that alone can cause premature failure in those bushes.

Also, my ball joints had a hole for a hex bit so you could stop it from spinning when tightening the bolt on the top.

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FRONT TENSION STRUT AND REAR SUSPENSION LINK RPLACEMENT.

Post by Pewters » Sat Oct 01, 2011 8:08 pm

You had to get I pic of those HUGE mitts again didn't you lol
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FRONT TENSION STRUT AND REAR SUSPENSION LINK RPLACEMENT.

Post by Rusty » Sat Oct 01, 2011 9:04 pm

Mitch, can you use a balljoint splitter instead of a hammer? Might be easier than swinging a hammer in there.

Also where did you get the parts and at what price?

Nice work though mate :thumbsup:


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Re: FRONT TENSION STRUT AND REAR SUSPENSION LINK RPLACEMENT.

Post by x555 » Sun Oct 02, 2011 12:41 am

[quote=""mobilejo""]Good work taking the pics fella - for anyone attempting this, the tension strut chasis bolt should be tightened when under load i.e. The car should be on it's wheels and not jacked up, I did mine by driving onto a ramp of bricks - not the safest option but it worked for me. I didn't do this at first, but when I inspected it under load I could see the bush was being stressed unnecessarily as it was twisting because I didn't tighten it under load and then when it was under load it was constantly twisted. I undid it then retightened it under load after seeing that. I imagine that alone can cause premature failure in those bushes.

Also, my ball joints had a hole for a hex bit so you could stop it from spinning when tightening the bolt on the top.[/quote]
Great advice :thumbsup: was thinking the same thing last night after initially test driving the beast it felt totally solid and no shudder under braking ....this would explain the slight shudder on the way home after giving it the beans ;) :thumbsup: ....now to edit my post so's to look like i know what i'm on about ;) :rofl:
The hex bit btw is what i put the 7mm socket around :thumbsup:
Last edited by x555 on Sun Oct 02, 2011 4:40 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: FRONT TENSION STRUT AND REAR SUSPENSION LINK RPLACEMENT.

Post by x555 » Sun Oct 02, 2011 12:42 am

[quote=""Pewters""]You had to get I pic of those HUGE mitts again didn't you lol[/quote]

All the better to slap you with you Welsh tart......btw nice watch make mind ;)
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Re: FRONT TENSION STRUT AND REAR SUSPENSION LINK RPLACEMENT.

Post by x555 » Sun Oct 02, 2011 12:49 am

[quote=""rusty nail""]Mitch, can you use a balljoint splitter instead of a hammer? Might be easier than swinging a hammer in there.

Also where did you get the parts and at what price?

Nice work though mate :thumbsup:


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A lot easier to 'gently tap' it off with said hammer fella than risk damage to the ball joint with a splitter ;) I got the parts from my BIL on account so will find out soon at what cost ....was gonna go the fleabay route but then it's a lottery and didn't want to pay stealer prices so went with better than average parts ....time will tell i supose :)
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FRONT TENSION STRUT AND REAR SUSPENSION LINK RPLACEMENT.

Post by dirtymonkey29 » Sun Oct 02, 2011 5:07 am

[quote=""mobilejo""]Good work taking the pics fella - for anyone attempting this, the tension strut chasis bolt should be tightened when under load i.e. The car should be on it's wheels and not jacked up, I did mine by driving onto a ramp of bricks - not the safest option but it worked for me. I didn't do this at first, but when I inspected it under load I could see the bush was being stressed unnecessarily as it was twisting because I didn't tighten it under load and then when it was under load it was constantly twisted. I undid it then retightened it under load after seeing that. I imagine that alone can cause premature failure in those bushes.

Also, my ball joints had a hole for a hex bit so you could stop it from spinning when tightening the bolt on the top.[/quote]

I always measure centre of wheel to wheel arch before I start then jack under the ball joint to same height from centre of hub to wheel arch to torque up... Easier with no wheel in the way

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Re: FRONT TENSION STRUT AND REAR SUSPENSION LINK RPLACEMENT.

Post by x555 » Sun Oct 02, 2011 2:00 pm

[quote=""dirtymonkey29""][quote=""mobilejo""]Good work taking the pics fella - for anyone attempting this, the tension strut chasis bolt should be tightened when under load i.e. The car should be on it's wheels and not jacked up, I did mine by driving onto a ramp of bricks - not the safest option but it worked for me. I didn't do this at first, but when I inspected it under load I could see the bush was being stressed unnecessarily as it was twisting because I didn't tighten it under load and then when it was under load it was constantly twisted. I undid it then retightened it under load after seeing that. I imagine that alone can cause premature failure in those bushes.

Also, my ball joints had a hole for a hex bit so you could stop it from spinning when tightening the bolt on the top.[/quote]

I always measure centre of wheel to wheel arch before I start then jack under the ball joint to same height from centre of hub to wheel arch to torque up... Easier with no wheel in the way[/quote]

Great advice from both of you thanks :thumbsup: just re tightened them under load using dirtymonkeys method :thumbsup: and been for a spin with no wheel shudder at all even under heavy breaking :D ....cheers fellas you have probably saved me a few quid on damaged bushes there ;)
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Re: FRONT TENSION STRUT AND REAR SUSPENSION LINK RPLACEMENT.

Post by lezmtaylor » Mon Oct 03, 2011 11:23 am

[quote=""dirtymonkey29""][quote=""mobilejo""]Good work taking the pics fella - for anyone attempting this, the tension strut chasis bolt should be tightened when under load i.e. The car should be on it's wheels and not jacked up, I did mine by driving onto a ramp of bricks - not the safest option but it worked for me. I didn't do this at first, but when I inspected it under load I could see the bush was being stressed unnecessarily as it was twisting because I didn't tighten it under load and then when it was under load it was constantly twisted. I undid it then retightened it under load after seeing that. I imagine that alone can cause premature failure in those bushes.

Also, my ball joints had a hole for a hex bit so you could stop it from spinning when tightening the bolt on the top.[/quote]

I always measure centre of wheel to wheel arch before I start then jack under the ball joint to same height from centre of hub to wheel arch to torque up... Easier with no wheel in the way[/quote]


Those ares good tip, just what the forum is about.
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Re: FRONT TENSION STRUT AND REAR SUSPENSION LINK REPLACEMENT

Post by Mother » Mon Oct 03, 2011 3:06 pm

Excellent thread....a credit to the forum X555. :thumbsup:
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Re: FRONT TENSION STRUT AND REAR SUSPENSION LINK REPLACEMENT

Post by x555 » Tue Oct 04, 2011 9:27 pm

[quote=""Mother""]Excellent thread....a credit to the forum X555. :thumbsup:[/quote]

Why thank you mother ;) :lol:
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Re: FRONT TENSION STRUT AND REAR SUSPENSION LINK REPLACEMENT

Post by x555 » Tue Oct 04, 2011 9:39 pm

Just to add to the thread..... when replacing the rear suspention link take note/mark the position of the nut and bolt on the bush end, this will need to go back in the same place as it is elongated for adjustment of the camber.
Also i used a jack to raise the suspention up to release the load on the bolt, making it easier to undo and remove.
Pics show the bolt and washer with grooves and the offset/elongated head that allows adjustment.

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Re: FRONT TENSION STRUT AND REAR SUSPENSION LINK RPLACEMENT.

Post by x555 » Wed Nov 02, 2011 9:40 pm

[quote=""rusty nail""]Mitch, can you use a balljoint splitter instead of a hammer? Might be easier than swinging a hammer in there.

Also where did you get the parts and at what price?

Nice work though mate :thumbsup:


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Finally got the bill of my BIL today fella and the front tension struts were £65.07 +vat each and the rear link was £48.16+vat so not too bad a price.I know i could have got them cheaper elsewhere but these parts take a hamering from the size/weight of the X.
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Re: FRONT TENSION STRUT AND REAR SUSPENSION LINK RPLACEMENT.

Post by StewieG » Thu Nov 17, 2011 10:02 pm

[/quote]
I always measure centre of wheel to wheel arch before I start then jack under the ball joint to same height from centre of hub to wheel arch to torque up... Easier with no wheel in the way[/quote]

Just to dumb this down, as I will give this idea to my mechanic when he does the work.

So when wheel is on as normal, measure from centre of wheel, up to wheel arch and write it down.

then what? please ear with me, sit me infront of a computer and i can get it to do anything for you, sit me infront of a car to work on it, i have no idea....I know what a jack is and what it does : p
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