XSeries-forum

Hi all

Ill keep it brief. Been having a problem lately with the X5 having a flat battery at random intervals, not completely dead but not enough juice to start it.

Had it checked today. Battery is fine, alternator charges it ok. HOWEVER... there is an intermitent drain that seems to be from either the boot lights or the boot release switch. it's not permanently draining power but seems to do it randomly, i think by switching on the boot lights.

Any one any ideas or experienced any thing similar? I've just removed the fuse for the interior and boot lights to try and combat the drain, but obviously am looking for a more permanent fix. You think replacing the boot opener might solve this? Is that a likely source of the power drain?

Really confused now!

Thanks

I've had this same issue. I have no idea what had drained the battery but it has happenned randomly overnight on three occasions. On one occasion the battery was so drained that the AA man couldnt jump start it if either his booster pack or even his van and he eventually had to have his van running and jump leads to the battery, along with the booster pack connected to the charging point then leave it for twenty five minutes before there was enough of a charge to get it started.
All tests on the battery show ti to be fine

On at least one occasion I found the boot unlocked.

I have noticed on other occasions, but spotted it on time, that I have pressed the boot unlock button on the key fob when getting out the car. On another day I had a slugging battery as I hadnt shut the door properly - it doesn't seem to take much to start draining it (and depending on the year the starter drains it even further when you then go to crank it over)

If yours has adjustable boot bump stops then some trial and error turning to adjust may assist you as minor changes can cause lights to remain on, tailgate noise from poor shutting or poor fit of tailgate when shut.

Hours of fun......Not !

Had it on my E53 about four years ago and the Dealer tried the bump stop adjustment without success as the issue turned out o be the actual soft close lock unit, which was then replaced. It was intermittently killing the battery as it was waking the car up.

Albeit that your problem was four years ago can you recall roughly the cost to replace the soft close unit ?

Smee

[quote=""smeeagain""]Albeit that your problem was four years ago can you recall roughly the cost to replace the soft close unit ?

Smee[/quote]

Sorry, it was a warranty job.

hi
had the same problem on my x last year
checked all the things you have said
i too thought it was the boot lid lights doing it
turned out to be the thing they call the hedgehog
someone on here will no the real name for it,its to do with the fan in the car
try sitting in the car with the power off and see if you can hear the fan kicking in and out
simple fix and i had had no more flat batterys since
hope this helps
carl

its called final stage resistor.
fsr
cheers carl

hmmm... i replaced the Hedgehog about 2 years ago as I had a problem with the fans. I did wonder about the aux heating but don't think its that.

After taking out the fuse to the bootlights I've left the car alone for 24 hours and just gone to start it and it was fine. think I might have stumbled upon the cause but not counting my chickens, or hedgehogs yet.

Well it aint the bootlights. Had the fuse out for a week now and yesterday it was dead again. Next port of call is the boot release. Does any one know which fuse to remove to disable the boot release as its not listed in the glovebox or in the boot?

Ok I've just removed the complete tailgate opener/numberplate lights assembly and removed the power to it. Got no number plate lights now but it's worth the risk to see if this works. Can still pop the boot from inside the car, so the actual boot popper mechanism still has power, but the switch/handle doesn't. Methinks this is going to be long drawn out process of elimination. I think I'll still have to remove the power from the boot release mechanism at some point so if anyone has any pearls of wisdom please let me know!

Thanks

Well, its been 10 days and guess what.... it has drained again. So not the bootlights, nor the boot release button. This is really getting annoying now especially seeing as an auto electrician can't even tell me what the problem is.

Gonna have to try and isolate the boot release mechanism now and remove the power to it. Won't be able to open the boot but again don't know what else to do to sort it.

Just a thought, have you got Traffic Master installed, and/or a tracker unit? If so you could try disconnecting these as they have a permanent power supply to them. Have read somewhere that the TrafficMaster is around 70mA.

Ok let me try & help with some possible diagnostic options..........

(a) Perform basic circuit tests yourself in event you maybe doubt others efforts......

1. If you dont own one then buy a narrow spike pointed head circuit tester- a Draper expert 12579 will be ideal for this, works well & is cheap,(no volatage reading but confirms if circuits live or otherwise). Also have pen/pencil & paper to hand to make note of any fuse numbers & components draining.

2. Drop the fuse box cover in the dash & the cubby cover in offside rear of the car.

3. Identify 2 earthing points for testing fuses front and rear. I use the front pasenger seat runner to earth whem testing the glove box fuses & metal in boot floor just below the rear fuse box. Ensure earth point is within workeable distance relative to the lead length of the tester unit.

4. To check function of the tester connect circuit tester cable to a front earthing point, (see 5 below), With ignition on place the spike of the tester into the top of an actively used blade, (refer to diagram inside glove box), make sure you make a live connection with the spike of the tester one side of the top of the selected blade fuse......if you look carefully you will see each fuse has 2 small holes on top that allow you make connection. This allows you to check for live supply & circuit without time consumingly having to remove each fuse. If tester lights up the tester is working.

5. Lower the back seats & remove the luggage blind and boot floor.

6. Get into the car & lock yourself in double clicking the actuator on key fob to disarm the alarm sensors inside the cabin.

7. Wait for the car to boot down electronics - you will know whan this has occured as the P Lamp should extinguish on the auto shifter display next to the shifter. Additionally if you have the rear locking disabled, the green light in the button will also extinguish. Furthermore check the Light on the Nav disc unit is out. Once these have all indicated being dormant you can go to work........This boot down procedure takes at least 20mins - possibly longer, but no more than 30 mins.

8. Once again & using the earthing points I have advised, (or suitable other), connect the earth lead to make a good connection & check first front fuses then rear fuses now car has powered down.

9. Ideally your tester should only light up for active live power drains. I would perhaps expect the imobiliser/alarm fuse or fuses, (cant remeber how many there are for this),to show live power (i.e. drain). Carefully check all fuses twice to try to hunt out the source of your drain.

10. If you dont have light illuminated on your tester then drain may still be elsewhere. I am not a mechanic or auto electrician so cant advise you how to check for all potential drains under the bonnet, however, if 1-9 failed to show any drain causes I would perhaps check under the hood using relavant power feed pins. I have never done this & results could be a bit hit & miss in abscence of under bonnet electrical knowledge &/or access issues.

Other options to consider........

(b) Perhaps also check to see that your auxilary push fan is working.
This is the fan to the front of the radiator & that provides extra cooling when the a/c is on. I cant be sure if this activates whenever the a/c is on but it should work/rotate when the engine is warm & a/c is on. I am told a defective push fan can cause current drain. Not a major problem when driving in uk on open roads but worth reducing overheat risk from avoiding running the a/c on hot day when crawling or static in gridlock.

(c) Phone check If by chance you have hard wired Motorola V50 phone then make sure yours has BMW firmware installed. Look for BMW logo on boot up. Non firmwared phone can drain battery.

(d) TM I am told that traffic master can cause drain issues. I am told by my indy that if not used it is perhaps wise to check &/or disconnect this. I have not looked into how to do this.( edit due to post timings - I see IanP has mentioned this too).

(e) Other kit
Maybe consider any issues from retro fitted lamps/bulbs, (struggling to think of causes now). Alsdo consider any other tretro fitted kit such as rear DVD screens. Playstation &/or other media kit.

(f) Indy
If still no joy then take car to a friendly & competent indy BMW specialist. Importantly try to get someone who understands various results & can interpret data that may point to likely cause of drain as there may well be a lot of data to interpret. Dealers use GT1 kit, some independents have the same kit. Autologic diagnostic kit also meant to be good though I dont know how it performs in terms of identifying current drains. You may pay less for diagnostics if you indicate to any carefully chosen indy you are keen to pay them to sort the problem if they cause found by use of their kit.

(g) DIY scanner ?
I don't know what BMW scanner 1.4.0 can do re drain diagnostics, (if anything), maybe consider this option if you have this scanner, you can confirm it may do the job &/or you know someone who will let you use same. Don't rush to buy it unless you have confirmation it may help you. As with other data - it's all very well having same, but proper interpretation & correct response(s) are essential. For info I do not think a Peake BMW Code reader will be able to assist with this.

Hope this of some use..........Whilst I can tell a good car from a bad & try to look after mine I know far less re mechanical & electrical issues than others on here - hence my approach is somewhat basic.

Good Luck & please keep us posted.

Thanks AW8,

Some really helpful info. Just removed the power supply to the rear lights and boot popper so we'll see. Also found out that there's an anti-mafia hitman release cable in the bootlid to free yourself if you get locked in your own boot by a member of the 'Cosa Nostra'. It's the little black rectangle cover next to the o/s boot compartment light. Handy to know if anyone out there is being sought by X5 driving mafioso, or has the surname Hoffa.