XSeries-forum

All,

I have just got me X5 E53 and completed a full disc and pad change & brake refurb this weekend, all went well thanks to all the info on this forum. (pics of the finished job - chuffed with the results)

On the rears thoroughly cleaned the discs inside and out , twice, including the handbrake shoes section, nipped up the adjusters just so the discs dragged and assembled. After a quick test drive tried handbrake and its not grabbing. I did not replace the shoes as they were fine, just a quick sand up to clean.  Is it just a bedding in process on the new discs or do i need to reset the handbrake fully.

To do this do i need to slacken the adjusters at the actual lever in the cab and then tighten the shoe adjuster screws to lock then back of 10 notches and then pull the lever up two clicks and then tighten at the lever in the cab. Any help on the process would be very grateful.

Also I  need to retrim my steering wheel, when i disconnect the battery negative will i need top reset radio codes or anything on re connection, do not know if i have a code for the radio, its a business edition OEM . Any advice on a code or where i find the code if there is one would be great.

Thanks in advance

Google "bmw handbrake adjustment".
They are well known to be poor but you have to set them up in a certain way.

Alan,

Many thanks for the reply.

The extract from my post is what i have found on the net, although some say simply adjust at the hub and not at the lever.

Just looking for first hand experience of setting it up as it looks like a PIA and i only want to do it once but get it right.

Cheers

Done it the first time the same way as you and had the same results some years back.
Since then i have done it the recommended way on both my 320d and my x5 3.0d and both have a good hand brake.
In fact the 320d will lock on the mot brake test.

Alan,

Cheers again, its me being thick here.

So the instructions on:-

1. slacken the adjusters at the actual lever in the cab
2. tighten the shoe adjuster screws to lock the wheels so they wiil not turn by hand, then back of 10ish notches
3. pull the lever in the cab up two clicks and then tighten down the two bolts on the lever in the cab.

It sounds weird to me but coming from my shogun which simply had adjuster which pulled the hanbrake cable up its got me scratching my head !

How does it work mechanically do you know at all - just interested as the cable tension must be set somewhere in the system.

Really appreciate you taking the time to respond, never had this set up on any of my other cars and ive had a few.

Will be trying out this weekend, hey ho up on the jacks again.

Cheers

I worked in a garage most of my life doing everything fro an oil change to mot testing and never had to do anything other than wind the adjuster up as you did then back off a bit.
Then i got myself a bmw and the first job was renew all brakes and as you are i couldn't get the hand brake to work until i asked google  ) )

Good guide I think http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticle ... usting.htm

Alan / sleepyfolk,

Great feedback many thanks, I'm on the right path with the process at least.

Cheers for the link - I will follow to the letter and see where it ends up!

Pushing my luck here but ....


Any advice on the battery disconnect, will I need to reset my radio or need a code at all.

Cheers again for such quick replies

Usually no issue when disconnecting the battery in terms of radios etc.  What is likely to happen though is you get a group of warning lights come up connected with the 4x4 system.  Clearing is easy, start the car and drive forward very slowly whilst turning the steering from lock to lock.  That should clear the lights 

Also remember the pelicanparts link is for USA so driver side and passenger sides are the other way round when you start turning the crown wheel lol.

Both

many thanks for the notes on the battery - another peculiarity i was not expecting!

will reverse the logic based on the link on the brakes

Many thanks again will be posting a pics on mine as soon as it stop raining!!

Ttr, did you have those discs skimmed? Look worlds apart from pre attention.

Very clean and tidy by the way, I need to devote some time to non mechanical tlc, always put it off lol

Upex

Hi, when i get the X5 it had a full MOt but i did not like the look of the discs and pads.

Ordered a new set of both and sensors just in case, good job as whilst the discs had plenty left on the overall condition and level of rust on the inner discs and hub was bad, pads were also well worn.

Re skimnming just costs too mush these days - looked at it for my Shogun, its just cheaper to buy new

After dismantling i also took the time top K rust the splash guards, coat of hammeritre and then spray a light coat of underseal. Also thoroughly cleaned arches and suspension components and did same.

Wheels also got a clean inside and out - that took some time......

I am pleased with the results.

Just got to crack the steering wheel retrim now after handbrake reset, then on to my other bits and pieces.

Will post photos as i go.

Cheers

If your discs were looking nice on the outside and rusty on the in side it is good practice to clean and lub the caliper sliders. As for a retrim I have always found that quite expensive probably cheaper to buy a decent second hand or take the opportunity to fit an E46 M3 wheel of that well known site 

Henry m3,

Thanks did just that , stripped caliper assembly down, cleaned our rubber guiders and stainless pins, red rubber greased up and re assembled.

They needed doing as some one had put copper grease in there  - wrong stuff completely on sliders.

Should have said only retrim on the plastic trim piece so may give a go at a carbon wrap rather than respray - never used the stuff before so might have a go.

Cheers