XSeries-forum

Hi folks

New to X5 world. Got a 2001 E53 4.4i. 124000 miles. I could do with some help.

Had a lot of work done already, getting the car back on the road after a long lay-up. 3-4 Years.
Work already completed, includes time chains and guide rails, new Vanos cylinders 1-4 and solenoid.
Discs and pads all round. New battery and re-con alternator.

Still getting the following error codes, which I think are strange considering...

140 - Electronic Thermostat Control
33 VANOS Inlet Camshaft Control Bank 1
26 Multiple Fuel Trim 1 Limit Reached
27 Multiple Fuel Trim 2 Limit Reached

Horizon posted to me last night suggested my continued mis-fire/choking (3500-4000 rpm) could be a blocked cat, so am running cleaner through it as of today.

Car is running pretty smooth at low power, slight flutter at 50-60 mph from engine when cruising.

Any other worldly wisdom out there?

Ps I'm near Edinburgh, if anyone knows any specialists up this way who could help?

now you have the error codes it looks like the vanos could be at fault, they have selenoids that operate the valve timing at certain revs, can't advise on them really because I've never had that problem, but have read a little about the selenoids going iffy.
Google Vanos problems on BMW M62 engines. There are YouTube videos on changing them out, seem to remember .
Sure someone on here will be better placed to advise.

Thanks again Horizon

Both the VANOS and the solenoid on that side are new! still getting fault codes. I also think the camshaft sensor was changed on bank 1.

Risking a long drive tomorrow 160 miles, to put some miles on it. Hoping the cat cleaner helps. Got injector cleaner for the next fill-up. Not sure it'll help, but doesn't cost much to try it.

Ran the CAT cleaner through. Car went 100 miles without engine light coming on, but was driving carefully. Achieved 11.5l/100km or 24.5 mpg. Not bad.

But on re-fill and more moderate acceleration stuttering back again and engine light, presumably with the same codes. Need to check if fuel filter was changed. I'm hoping not, cause lean bank one can result from a clogged filter.

Vacuum hoses also culprits?

Just putting in my 2p's worth, couple of weeks ago had the engine light come on and codes suggested lean on bank 2 ran some live data and it showed a very lazy o2 sensor but no codes relating to the o2 sensor, changed it and everything works fine.

Thanks shall add that to the knowledge base, but did you have a significant mis-fire?

I had the same on my 4.6, but only slight hesitation. Changed both O2 sensors and all was well.

Likewise with slight missfire


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Ok, so car drove to York and back from Edinburgh. My first real trip, only called AA once. Ran out of fuel with 27 miles range left ha ha!! Won't trust that again... Was attempting to get the most out of the Catcleaner.

It's running ok provided you don't press beyond halfway on the throttle.

Thinking about my error codes. I'm wondering if the new cam pos sensor got swapped to bank 2 for fault finding purposes, putting an old one back onto bank one?

I reckon this is quite feasible, think I'll get myself a new pos sensor. Any tips on OEM from BMW or after-market?

Once I get this sorted I'll then start thinking about whether or not to self-tackle the noisy tappets!

when you look on other well known sites there are some good well known brands for example Delphi at £33. However you say the car is running ok if you don't press the throttle to far, so really it's s*$t. I presume you haven't replaced/checked the o2 sensors which will more than likely sort the fuel trim problem

Aren't the "tappets" hydraulic on yours, you sure your not hearing the injectors ticking. If it is the tappets check your not using to heavy a grade of oil,

yes I believe they are hydraulic, but the ticking has to be heard to be believed. Car has been unused for a long time, just had major engine work done, oil changed by the garage presumably the right stuff?!?

Just phoned BMW, cam sensor £97 plus vat.

Saw the Delphi one earlier, that's what I was wondering about. One comes complete, the other just the body.

If this doesn't fix it then, O2 sensors next...

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Cam-Shaft-Sen ... SwYIxX5ZX5

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-Fits-BMW- ... SwMtxXsaN4

50 grade oil perhaps!

Found this article by Timm's which is worth a read for those with a M60, M62 or M62TU engine...

http://www.meeknet.co.uk/e31/BMW_M60_M6 ... Noises.htm

Following on from our discussions yesterday and from info I found online last night, error code 33 is VANOS related, either mechanical failure or a timing issue, not Camshaft Sensor which has its own fault code. It's a new VANOS so I'm assuming timing then.

Found a few posts on other forums where this code (33) pops up following VANOS change and/or timing chain and guide replacement as in my case. The 'somewhat limited' wisdom from replies seems to point to incorrect timing. Quote : Bimmerforums
"I think you need to reset the timing, using the correct tools. While I surmise that you did this already, sometimes the car doesn't cooperate, and you end up with the tension on the wrong side of the tensioner, and the chain. I say this because it has happened to me, and I had to go back in, and reset the cam/crank timing, even though it had been set using all the correct tools and techniques, the first time. Work all slack to the tensioner side, by jumping teeth at the crankshaft. The driver's side bank must be tight, and the main tensioner needs to tighten the other side."

(drivers side? this poster a BMW tech expert is from the US)

Now my situation is somewhat complicated in that I haven't paid this indie for the repair work yet, but I get the impression from what he's said, that he feels a little out of his depth, which leaves me in a rather difficult situation. I need a second opinion now from an expert on these engines to help guide me, anyone know of any?

For info... Another interesting article discussing bleeding procedure for noisy hydraulic tappets and lifters...

http://www.enginebuildermag.com/2009/05 ... -problems/

I'm sure CPS throws up it' own codes, was the car towed into the garage to have all this work done, if not, did it rattle this bad  before it went in. Sounds like two problems. Tappet noise and timing. If timing is out that may cause the tappet noise. If your indie doesn't fill you with confidence ref the Vanos  maybe he's just as likely to throw the wrong oil in. The codes point at timing/vanos, top cover needs to come off and timing checked. All the other bits ie sensors are probably fine and your just throwing money at it in hope. Ask the indy to check the timing and the data on the o2 sensors to rule them out.