XSeries-forum

Hi,

Just joined this forum as I've bought a X5 E53 diesel last year and am now starting to look to get some of the niggles sorted out, especially as it's a) starting to warm up, and b) I'm just finishing a workshop build, so I've got somewhere for my tools and some space to work...

My cars got a full history, pretty well specced and generally in good condition, which is a bonus!

I'm not an expert car mechanic, although I pick it up fast usually...

First questions are relating to the oil service I've just done in it.

Did a full oil change and flush, new oil filter, new upgraded crankcase breather (original foam one found still in place..) new pollen filter and air filter. Can't believe how much has to come out to change the air filter! What a stupid design! The first issue is that when I changed the air filter I found that someone in the past had cracked the back of the base of the plastic box the filter sits in, and there's is a piece about 30mm long missing, right where the awkward to reach bolt is at the back. (And no it wasn't me! ) I've put everything back, as I need the car daily, but I just wanted to check if this was ok to leave like this or not? I didn't want to tape it up in case the tape came off in use, and as it's right iver the joint, would be a nightmare to patch anyway. Is this ok, or will it upset the airflow?

Second problem is that I'm getting some serious brake judder under gentle breaking, but erratically? It's due new brake pads and rotors, which I'm in the process of doing now. I have also ordered a replacement pair of lower front control arms, as the bush is knackered on the hub end, gaiters leaking I guess too. Is there anything else I should check for at this stage?

Lastly, I'm only getting around 26mpg from relatively gentle driving, is that normal? As it's seems low to me. I did have to replace the under car fuel pump when I first got it, but has been fine since. (Not sure if that's related or not?)

I'm sure there will be more questions!

List of future work / upgrades planned
Rear view camera
Installation of wifi mirroring module
Fix issue with drivers door window, jams down if you wind it all the way down, then shut the door?
Ashtray doesn't open / close properly
One of the dashboard instrument cluster bulbs has gone, seems an easy job?
Intermittent parking sensor issue, system works 50% of the time...not confidence inspiring.
Damn good clean inside, refurb leather seats

Cheers for any replies!
Grifter

Just been reading up a bit, and looks like a blocked egr might be a possibility, definitely showing some of the symptoms. What's the general thought on egr bypass valves? My car is at 112k if that makes a difference.

OK... air filter case 1st & access....
Firstly - yes they are a bitch to get at & remove for sure.... we all suffer - however, there is a none functional ridge of plastic spine on the bulkhead that I twisted off with some pliers that helps release some wiggling room...

2
the filter case needs to be air tight... so long as the case has some strength still & is in one piece - though cracked.... replacing the base section means half the engine needs to come out, as this chunk is part of a larger assembly - stuff some Blue gasket sealant in the crack, allow to dry & repeat... the air is under vacuum at this place & will simply pull the sealant in tighter still.

3
Air Filter... chuck the card one & get a K&N high performance filter (Ebay).... you just blow it out with an air line every year from the Inside - Out to blow out the dust & flies.

4
Crank Case Breather Separator - this MUST be checked & make sure you have a Swirl/Centrifugal type. get rid of the sponge thing that is usually fitted - this is an URGENT check item !!!

5
EGR By-Pass tube thingy..... ABSOLUTELY..... get rid of the EGR unit asap... bloody useless thing.

Get a blanker plate kit for the exhaust manifold pipe, unplug the EGR & tie the wire out of the way & fit the Straight-thru pipe bypass item - Ebay again for about £20.
When you swap the part - make sure you put a flannel under the EGR device, or you will likely loose all the screws.
You will need some 1/4 drive E-Torx sockets for this job.

6
Oil change - every 10k miles... NOTE a flush can be known to do more harm than good if you dislodge some crud & block an oil gallery or the Turbo Oil feed pipe.... the choice is yours & every one has their own opinion on this topic.

Re Brake judder...
This is a topic that is often debated here re X5's...
There could be a simple caliper binding issue, or as you mention, one or more of the tonnage of joints on the front end.
120k miles, it is a fair bet that a set of new joints etc will fix the issue & certainly make a more pleasant drive.

hope this helps a little.
Grant B

PS, if you ever get any rear air suspension issues... keep in touch, I have an easy fix for some of them.

Thanks very much for taking the time to post, much appreciated!

The crankcase filter is definitely the foam one, but I've ordered a vortex upgrade version, so will fit this asap.

I'll also order a egr bypass kit, and get my flannel ready! Lol

The air filter case is more of a problem, it is the lower section (i.e. Not the top that you remove) which is damaged, and there is actually a piece missing at the back. If I put a small inspection camera in place then I can just see the air filter through it. The difficult bolt is just spinning as the bit it fixes into is missing... there's no way I'm taking half the engine out to replace, well outside my comfort zone I'm afraid. What are the implications of the open hole? I think maybe the best I can do is to try to duct tape it up, but I doubt that'll be airtight...I'm not sure I could fabricate a cover patch either as it's  a really awkward shape and at the joint of the two halves of the box.

Any help is gratefully received!

try some of that product called  sugru  its a rubbery plastic type stuff    got it from BQ    you can form it onto any shape  flat or round  stick it on and it cures ,  do a search to see it    that may seal the airbox

[quote="marinaman"]
try some of that product called  sugru  its a rubbery plastic type stuff    got it from BQ    you can form it onto any shape  flat or round  stick it on and it cures ,  do a search to see it    that may seal the airbox
[/quote]

Cheers mate,
Ordered some yesterday, so will see how it works. If the chirpy chap on the video is telling the truth it'll fix everything lol

it does work  but it wont store for long, it says put in freezer to extend its life..  i got some out after 2 weeks and was fine, just rub in your fingers to soften  but after another 2 weeks even in the freezer it had gone rubbery and useless.  so its expensive with a short shelf life, i think thats why they sell it in such small packs.

Re air-box... missing bits....
Another option is to use Milliput..... 2 part "epoxy-putty"....
this stuff does not go off for years & you simply cut off what you need, squidge it to mix it & mould it by hand to the shape you want.
Take about an hr to harden & 5 hrs to be structurally sound... this stuff may be the answer.

Welcome Grifter.....a considerable list of things to sort - Not expecting to see the maths but hope the purchase price was somewhat relative to work discovered/needed.

Great forum reponses especially from X5-D-Sport-Salisbury  ;D

+1 for Milliput.
I use some other stuff as well it is a putty that you cut a lump off and roll with your fingers it is actually for repairing scuffs in ally whees.

[quote="AW8"]
Welcome Grifter.....a considerable list of things to sort - Not expecting to see the maths but hope the purchase price was somewhat relative to work discovered/needed.

Great forum reponses especially from X5-D-Sport-Salisbury  ;D
[/quote]

Thanks for the welcome. Yep, his help was much appreciated as was everyone else's.

Jobs done so far, and without huge costs...

I've changed the discs and pads, and also the complete lower control arms, and the brake judder is completely gone! Feels much tighter to drive as well. The LH gaiters had split in the control arm, and there was a lot of play in it, so may well have been the cause, but either way, I'm happy it's now braking very well and totally smooth. Followed a good online guide on how to do it, and had everything double checked by an experienced mate just to be sure.

I took the EGR out yesterday, as the bypass kit arrived, only issue is that they sent the wrong kit and the holes didn't match up to the existing valve mounts, so quick clean ( ok, 45mins!) and back on until the replacement arrives. One question here is that access to the two bolts holding the metal pipe to the manifold look bloody difficult to access, is it ok to leave this pipe in place and use the coin style blank plate at the top end? It's got a jubilee clip with a weld tacked on clip system, so would theoretically be able to be capped at this point? What a load of crap inside these valves!

[quote="X5-D-Sport Salisbury"]
Re air-box... missing bits....
Another option is to use Milliput..... 2 part "epoxy-putty"....
this stuff does not go off for years & you simply cut off what you need, squidge it to mix it & mould it by hand to the shape you want.
Take about an hr to harden & 5 hrs to be structurally sound... this stuff may be the answer.
[/quote]

Cheers (again!)

I've see this before, I've got a big marine fish tank and it's one of the popular ways to attach corals. Only issue is that it's very brittle when set? What exactly will the hole be causing ? Does it affect the ecu's ability to read and set the air fuel mix? What are the implications of this hole?

Hi
thought i would clean my egr,  no way could i get the bottom right hand bolt out,  i fiddled and messed for 45 mins,  eventually gave up and sprayed a can of cleaner in while engine off and then scrubbed with a tooth brush, would like to get it off though to reach back side of it.  any ideas ?    thanks

[quote="marinaman"]
Hi
thought i would clean my egr,  no way could i get the bottom right hand bolt out,  i fiddled and messed for 45 mins,  eventually gave up and sprayed a can of cleaner in while engine off and then scrubbed with a tooth brush, would like to get it off though to reach back side of it.  any ideas ?    thanks
[/quote]

I used a t bar handle on a straight bar, via a multi joint to get to it, was a bit of a pain, but came out no problem. I found access easier by first removing the big rubber pipe from the egr, and gently bending it down and away slightly. A good tip I was given was to put a cloth underneath first to catch any bolts.