XSeries-forum

Turned on my car earlier and got all the warning lights plus a really clunky/surging rear diff when turning sharp.

Can't seem to get rid of the lights.

Did a long drive yesterday but didn't have any issues.

I did take apart the transfer actuator around 4 months ago and it was absolutely fine, no wear at all.

Any help is greatly appreciated


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Hi

I'm not sure I can help much but did find this post on rear diffs which on an X3 can be sensitive to tyre differences e.g. like two new tyre on the rear an old ones on the front,

This can seem to cause problems with the diff so this may be worth checking the tyre diameter and circumferences, as there shouldn't be noise like that from the diff.

I know KKX5 rebuilds diff as a living so it may be worth sending him a PM, and others on here have the E83 so would also now more about this issue than me. Link below

http://xdrivers.co.uk/forum/index.php/t ... #msg138065

Also it may be of help to other members to expand on which lights came on when you started the car when you had the clunky/surging when turning sharp.

Also you mentioned you took it on a drive without any issues, did the warning lights you mentioned above then go out on the drive? And have you started the car since and have the warning lights returned? 

Graeme

[quote="Bubbaspaarx"]
Turned on my car earlier and got all the warning lights plus a really clunky/surging rear diff when turning sharp.

Can't seem to get rid of the lights.

Did a long drive yesterday but didn't have any issues.

I did take apart the transfer actuator around 4 months ago and it was absolutely fine, no wear at all.

Any help is greatly appreciated


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[/quote]
When you say that you took the transfer box actuator out, did you do that for a reason? Where you getting sign of a problem then ?
Have you checked tyre pressures, maybe ones very low and causing problems.
On the X5 you can pull a fuse for the transfer box, fuse 46 on the X5 but no idea on the X3.
I'm picking my X3 up today, so not being filled with confidence.
Have you got the staggered set up ? If so are they star marked tyres? Have you recently changed any of the tyres?
Hope you get to the bottom of it soon, and not an expensive fix

Hi guys, thanks for the responses.
I have the staggered setup with star marked tyres. They are on their way out though.
I always check tyre pressures which causes the surging scenario. I had thought this was down to the actuator which is originally why i took it out. Stupidly i had no idea that my wheels were staggered (didn't even know it was a thing). I'd always check which pressures i needed then look at the front tyre for reference without ever checking the backs. This was a while ago but i have always kept a keen eye on the pressures.
The journey was the day prior to the lights. A good 2.5 hour motorway trip without a hiccup.
No idea what is causing this although have read that it could be a speed sensor (which is also the abs sensor) this kind of feels like it might be that hence the juddering under acceleration as it can't work out speeds etc.


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The red on the handbrake light, it's actually orange but I had the handbrake up.


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so i just plugged in DIS and it found a few error codes. Specifically those related to speed sensors.

ran a test with all the sensors for each wheel and the rear right is reading 0 kmh so I'm guessing I need a new sensor. Hopefully that's all it is

Well.. even though I'm talking to myself now. I have solved the issue. Unfortunately I haven't actually fixed it yet but we know what to do.

The issue.
The speed sensor was damaged. I initially thought it was damaged from debris over the 120k miles it had travelled. But it wasn't.
for anyone experiencing this same issue, you need to look at the reluctor ring.

Sensor uses the reluctor ring to find wheel speed and abs.

The driveshaft though, overtime has rusted, forcing the reluctor ring to stretch and increase in size. It then gets so big it actually catches the sensor and breaks it. (I found this out after installing a £40 sensor only for it to break instantly.

Repair = remove wheel, disc and hub, cut off old reluctor ring, sand/wire brush off rust until new ring fits in place.

No garage will find this solution and it will cost you big bucks if you don't check this first.

Symptoms to check -
Using DIS to see for wheel speed sensor errors, specifically 'air gap' (space between reluctor and sensor)

Or

Take off the sensor (10 mins work) and if the sensor is worn at the end, this is definitely the issue.

I believe this is probably the cause of the surging I have felt on heavy acceleration.

If the ring has stretched then it would register a slightly different speed to other wheels causing dsc to activate.

Hopefully when I repair this it will resolve everything.

Will update when it'a done.


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Sounds like this one has been a bit of a challenge!  How long has it taken you to finally get to the bottom of it?

I'm assuming the ring is likely made of a soft iron, hence corroding and expanding to the point of impacting the sensor?

[quote="X5Sport"]
Sounds like this one has been a bit of a challenge!  How long has it taken you to finally get to the bottom of it?

I'm assuming the ring is likely made of a soft iron, hence corroding and expanding to the point of impacting the sensor?
[/quote]

It's been a b****h of an issue. Oddly it's not the ring itself that seems to have corroded but the driveshaft itself. I'm going to have to find a way to prevent it from happening again.

I'll make an instructional for repairing it.


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What about one of the anti-rust paints that converts rust into a harder non-rusting compound?  Used to use them when treating rust on my cars in the 1980's.

[quote="X5Sport"]
What about one of the anti-rust paints that converts rust into a harder non-rusting compound?  Used to use them when treating rust on my cars in the 1980's.
[/quote]
Ooh. That sounds like the ticket. Whole car could do with it!
What should i look out for?


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That stuff was Kurust (If spelt right?) also ,if you can get it: Phosphoric acid, which is what Kurust was made from, Phosphoric acid needs to be diluted with water to 40% Phosphoric acid and 60% water.
I am pretty sure these were the dilution ratios, but needs checking.
BEWARE PHOSPHORIC ACID IS VERY NASTY STUFF AND BURNS. BEWARE.

Lez

That's the beastie, or Hammerite version.  Creates Iron Phosphate 

Added bonus, Iron Phosphate kills slugs  ::)

Kurust is a good product, I used it on my old trailer.

http://www.hammerite.co.uk/product/kurust/

Thanks for the input guys. Found an old pot of Kurust. Will give this a go.

So far though, not so good. I have got as far as taking the wheel off. And then... nothing.

The hub nut is so badly rusted that it's slightly reduced in size so trying to get it off is not happening. I had to buy a 36mm bi-hex socket and it just spins around on it.

It's a nightmare.

trying to think of a tool that I could use on it. Going to try the wax and lighter trick too which if anything will make it easier to pry off once I have the right tool but so far, I'm stuffed.

Any help would be much appreciated.