Easy job, just did mine. Only drama was getting the correct parts sent, they didn’t send me a matching pair in the same brand. When I notified them they still didn’t get it right on the re-send! >:( Ended up installing them anyway, no more “clunking” sound.
Heaps of videos etc. already but here are some tips I can provide:
- Jack up front and support safely on stands if you have them. Remove wheel on the side you’re working on and slide under the car for extra safety. Tip: loosen wheel nuts before you jack up car.
- You’ll need a 18mm thin spanner to hold the ball joint to break loose the nut from the strut and sway bar ends. I bought a “Cone Spanner” from my local bicycle store which did the trick.
- There is only 1 washer required to go on the top of the link which attaches to the strut end. Put it on before you thread the bolt through the strut mounting point. Thread top nut on but keep loose so you can attach the lower link easily. No washer required for bottom connection to sway bar, just bolt on. There is a difference between left and right so make a note of the one you removed and match up with the new one. Tighten both end link nuts to 100Nm.
- Repeat for other side.
- While the wheels are off check your pads and discs. Make sure your sensors and wear indicators are connected properly.
- Wheels back on, lower vehicle and torque wheel bolts back up to 140Nm.
Take her for a spin and enjoy the “clunk” free ride. Go find a nice round-about and do a lap, I challenge you to resist that grin on your face as you gently squeeze the accelerator whilst going around
)
