XSeries-forum

For the last few weeks my wife's (05 3.0D Sport) X5 has been displaying a selection of seemingly erroneous messages.

• Self-level Suspension Inactive - if seems fine
• Fasten Seat Belts - fastened
• Door Open - all closed

The Aircon appears to be impacted too - the "MAX *" only works sometimes and the doors sometimes don't lock

Any ideas?


Many thanks in advance,

Graeme

Check battery connections in boot especially the negative lead to the body then disconnect positive lead off for a short while let things reset

+1 for battery - these cars are extremely sensitive to even minute battery voltage dscrepancies and go into an electronc tizz if unhappy about the battery in any way.  Have had it myself in the past as have many others on here.

Thanks guys, I have a look.

I gave all the connections in the boot a good clean, but still getting those error messages.

Is there anything else it could be?

Would a Scanner 1.4.0 help with the diagnosis or would it just repeat what the dash is showing?

Despite being able to turn the engine over at the expected speed, could the battery be on its way out?

Any comments or suggestions gratefully received; as always.

The scanner should record what the actual codes were.  It's an electrical gremlin but the source could be a devil to find.  The scanner could help trace the source, or at least point you in the right direction.

Its probably the battery on its way out, your symptoms are common place when the battery is nearing the end of its useful life.
If it's got a BMW branded battery they have the date of manufacture stamped on the top of the terminal posts.
If it's over 5 years old, bin it and fit a new battery.
I fitted a Bosch S5 100ah (019 ) available at ECP for around £100 (019 ) is the correct fittment for the E53 3.0 d

Deffo check the battery, the guys installing my new headunit disturbed the power supply to the CANBUS system and I was getting errors generated. Turned out the voltage had dropped to below 9v so the unit wasn't powered up correctly.

Any decent battery shop can test your battery's remaining cranking capacity (not Halfords, as they will just change it) or you do a voltage check if you have a multimeter.

You are looking for 12v+ (ideally 12.6v) when the engine is off and approximately 13.5 to 14.7v with the engine running (alternator output).

Also worth checking the connections are tight and not showing signs of corrosion (white furry/powdery looking gunk), as the car will attempt to draw more current to crank the engine over than it should.

Had an e36 323 a few yrs ago used daily and only fault was n/s rear door never worked on central locking. Sold the car to a mate and agreed to put a new battery on for him....guess what!! Bloody 2 yrs I unlocked and locked that door by hand. Never underestimate a cars battery!! Failing that then could be wiring harness issues. Not got wet carpets by any chance and some of your loom is submerged??

Thanks for all the replies.

I've not had a chance to check the battery's output yet but hopefully I can have a look this weekend.  I'll check the battery for a date at the same time.

Huxsta, carpets are all dry so I believe the wiring will be dry but its something else to check.

I have noticed over the last few days however that if the auto-lock hasn't worked and/or the seat belt warning is going off, turning right at a reasonable speed (i.e roundabouts) seems to "fix" things.  It's like the forces of cornering are lining something up better so as to stop the faults.

Has anyone got any thoughts on this?

[quote="XV"]

I have noticed over the last few days however that if the auto-lock hasn't worked and/or the seat belt warning is going off, turning right at a reasonable speed (i.e roundabouts) seems to "fix" things.  It's like the forces of cornering are lining something up better so as to stop the faults.

Has anyone got any thoughts on this?
[/quote]

Every time you get an error message, do a complete circuit of the next roundabout.

[quote="chubbs"]
Every time you get an error message, do a complete circuit of the next roundabout.
[/quote]
Already am 

So I finally got around to replacing the battery; it turns out that it was 10 years old, but it hasn't made a blind bit of difference. 

The car wouldn't lock earlier today, which it's not done before, so decided to bite the bullet and buy new.

Any further suggestions would greatly appreceiated as I'm starting thjnk this could get expensive.

Apologies for resurrecting an old thread but I thought an update would be helpful if anyone else has similar issues.

It seems all the above issues, and a few others, are now resolved; thanks to an inattentive Transit van driver.

Last December, whilst stopped in a line of traffic, the car got rammed by a Transit.  The damage didn't look to bad, especially as the Transit (a 16 plate) looked like a write off.  The bumper did it's job and the lower tailgate had a few big dents in it but the car was still drivable.

Long story, short; 3 of the rear parking sensors were destroyed and within a few days all of the issues we'd experienced over the last 2 years disappeared.

Now that a new bumper, and sensors, have been fitted, everything is now working as it should (touch wood).

The parking sensors stopped working a few months after we got the car but it was over a year after this before we started seeing the erroneous messages etc. so I never considered that the sensors might be responsible.

Nice to get a final answer to a strange problem.
Thanks.