XSeries-forum

[quote="wilkoturbo"]
[quote="Alan703"]
[quote="wilkoturbo"]
[quote="wilkoturbo"]
Right I have wired power to pin 1 via a remote it powers up for like a minuite then shuts off , I've read the fault codes what next <!-- s:( -->:(<!-- s:( -->
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Did you happen to enable the Nav screen for Auxiliary Heating / Ventilation? instead of the original Auxiliary Ventilation setting

I beleive if you did - the Nav screen is communicating with the IHKA and other components before starting the webasto.  You will probably find the IHKA is not the one suitable for SA536 option, and you will not have the valve that is mentioned in your fault code.  As well as this, other parts of the system are missing as you do not have the factory fitted Parking Heater.

This is the point I am at, although I am also showing a glow plug short circuit to ground fault. 

I am waiting to recode the Nav screen back to its original setting, then take it from there.
[/quote]
The sw is dis v57 what BMW use , I'm confused on why not to enable the aux heater , if I power it via the satnav screen it does the same as power to pin 1 works for 30 secs then shuts down !!!!!
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Coz BMW say not to -



Hopefully that answers your question - made perfect sense once I read it.

So if I delete the fault code and then just power off of pin 1i should be good to go !!??

Possibly not - I suspect your IHKA fault will disappear, but the glow plug fault may still remain.

You are in the same position as me - I am waiting to get hooked up to BMW's computer - as I can't find how to undo the coding to my On Board Monitor using progman (Maybe you know how???)

I am tempted to order a glow plug, and service (clean) the webasto - if that doesn't fix it - It could be an ECU repair.

Ill have a look later think ill try a full service and clean first ?? Maybe it will work .i was thinking of leaving the aux heater enabled then never touching it ?

[quote="jevansio"]
Damn good find Alan, I'm taking a punt, I'm certain that serial no (901..13A) is one I found on an old Webasto PDF indicating the plug was available seperatley too (but when you search for it on google all the top matches come back with things fro primer numbers etc)

I just bought one, I needed a gasket kit anyways if I were to clean the thing out so this should ensure I only need to do the swap once
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Need help - how did you sign in to buy it?

Ne'er mind - knowing my login helps - chance taken - fingers crossed

[quote="wilkoturbo"]
Ill have a look later think ill try a full service and clean first ?? Maybe it will work .i was thinking of leaving the aux heater enabled then never touching it ?
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I wouldn't have thought so - because you will still have the IHKA fault, which will result in a non start.

My understanding is The 12v feed wakes up the k-bus, which is needed to turn the fans on, water pump, fuel pump etc - I would have thought it will pick up the IHKA fault at this point, resulting in a non start

I'm putting mine back the way it should be - will make diagnosis easier

I will one day get this WebO working think this weekend ill have it out !!
I hear some people on here have there's working via satnav !!?? May be wrong !

http://xdrivers.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=445.300

Read post 253 and 258 and others

Seems debatable wether it would work or not - but it would make sense to clear all the errors before trying to diagnose the webasto.

On another note - I didn't think you could code with DIS v57, seen your post 289 - might help me undo the conversion?

I don`t understand why I don`t get a fault with the IHKA when I opperate mine from the nav screen ?
I set the timer, it fires up and runs for 30mins and stops. It was used last winter 4 nights a week, every week from the timer function with no problems at all.

I know of many others also working with no problems too.

[quote="mikem"]
I don`t understand why I don`t get a fault with the IHKA when I opperate mine from the nav screen ?
I set the timer, it fires up and runs for 30mins and stops. It was used last winter 4 nights a week, every week from the timer function with no problems at all.

I know of many others also working with no problems too.
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http://xdrivers.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=445.253 (comment 253)

http://xdrivers.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=445.258 (comment 258)

and several others.

How old is your one?  mine is 2005 - I notice earlier ones have other stuff attached to the side of the webasto.  I have also seen on that topic that other facelift ones work no problems.

Maybe they didnt all come out of the factory the same?

Either way - get rid of the IHKA fault, get the webasto working - then try enabling the dash - when you know the webasto works, is surely the better approach?

guys, re. enabling aux heater on the obm and the IHKA fault, tbh - even i had this enabled in the past, there was no problem; later in the process of getting my webo sorted, after reading that bmw webo service manual, in the process of eliminating issues i disabled that as well.

to date it has stayed disabled as i have no need for it with remote start sorted.

so with or without aux heater being enabled on the obm, +12v to pin 1 should work.

i've read elsewhere that the webo pre 2004 and after 2004 are different. this could very well be a contributor as well. we don't know how old that bmw document is. on the other hand my car is post 2004. so it may be tht they changed the IHKA  fault reporting post 2004.

in any case your objective is to get the heater sorted. having aux heater enabled or disabled has no impact on it working on power to pin 1. on the other hand having it enabled on obm 'could' cause an IHKA fault (at least in theory).

so logical reasoning would suggest keeping it off on the obm until you get the webo sorted on power to pin 1 (which is the crucial thing).

once you get that part sorted you can try enabling it on the obm and seeing if it results in a IHKA fault.

[quote="Alan703"]
Here's how I found it......but

http://www.airconcoltd.com/partman/Ther ... 70G[1].pdf

Page 5, part no 3 - note 2 (which should suit me, but maybe not others)


[2] Für Benzin und Diesel ab 2004 / For petrol and Diesel as of 2004 / Pour Benzine et Diesel dès 2004 / Per Benzina e Diesel dal 2004 / För Bensin och Diesel av 2004
[/quote]

good detective work here fantastic find!

edit: note the difference in the webo quoted pre and post 2004 in that .pdf.

i've found another webo enthusiast through another member here, i've had a dialogue with him but it was too late for me. i'll email the contact. you can check if he's able to sort out a glow plug for you.

j

Mine is an April `06 build  - I`m sure I read something stating the circulation valve/pump was part of the plumbing present. To add further confusion some of the posts refer to converting a themotop Z into a C but all the facelift cars I`ve looked at are all labeled as both !

I should add tho, my webbo was working perfectly before I codded the auxhuillary heating.

WEbo C ie the standard webo used in motor homes, boats, etc. the automotive variant of the same thing  is slapped wth a webo Z label on the side. so yours will have both labels.

Tell ya what, it's like smoke & mirrors trying to diagnose what's wrong with the bloody thing, I originally measured the glowpin resistance at 1.1ohm, figured that was a sign (aswell as the error code) that the pin was faulty.  I've since noticed that when I touch my multi-meter connectors together it shows 0.8ohm, so I guess in reality the glowpin is showing about 0.3ohm - only slightly out of range but I guess my multi-meter isn't going to be 100%.

I'm also try to diagnose whether the pcb is outputting 12v on the glowpin connector, I created a simple 12v LED setup to plug inplace of the glowpin, I fired pin 1, the fan started, but the LED didn't light, so it's possible that the PCB is to blame :/.  I then took the car for a drive to get a resistance measurement of the glowpin when it was warm, and when I returned the car had decided to fire the webo up of it's own accord (I'd left the LED in place of the glowpin at this point).  When I checked the voltage across the LED it was showing 2.x Volts - according to the docs it should be 12v or nothing.

These mornings are getting cold, I've written my letter to Santa, and if I can get it working for Xmas morning, as little Timmy would say "it'll be the best Xmas ever"