XSeries-forum

[quote="X5 ALN"]
[quote="jaynana"]
INPA - stayed away so far, but now i feel like 'why not'...

where can i get a list of 'what is possible' with this software pls?

j
[/quote]

http://bmwcoders.com/forum/showthread.php?p=1

I downloaded it there first, trying to get a mates cable to work.

I then ended up buying my own cable that came with a disc with all the program's on it.

It's very fast. I can start it, read codes, check webasto function and close it down, before VMware loads up DIS - which means nothing to you just now lol
[/quote]

thanks, read a bit, seems like a minefield and a challenge! i've sent a request to register. will need lots of help A  :-[

In response to the comments in my VIN devoder post

From my experience - coding the car for SA536 PARKING HEATER may actually prevent your webasto from working - as it may look for a changeover valve (which divides the engine/cabin water system so that only the cabin is heated).  When it doesn't find this valve - it will report a fault and cease operation.

If you get past that fault - you then may face a fault with the control panel - as there is a different one which applies to the option code SA536 - www.realoem.com you will see there is 3 different panels.

My scenario

Webasto faulty - unknown
Coded car to SA536 - webasto wouldn't start with timer
Fitted aftermarket remote receiver/transmitter to pin 1 - webasto wouldn't start with remote.
Purchased software - discovered glow plug was reporting a short circuit to ground and an IHKA fault.
Replaced glow plug - both fault codes remained
Replaced webasto ECU - glow plug fault code cleared, IHKA fault remained.  Webasto wouldn't start with timer.
Removed SA536 coding, IHKA fault cleared, webasto sprang into life.

Hi everyone!

Well finally I sorted my problem! 
I finally tracked my problem down to a coding issue, my IHKA & Heater were coded wrong!
My IHKA had the 'zuheizer' coded to k_bus & my ZHZ (Zuheizer) module was coded to 'konventionell' after changing my ZHZ module to k_bus to match my IHKA module my error code dissapeared & now everything functions correctly as it should! Webasto runs, fan light on Nav surround comes on & the fans turn them selves on after a few minutes!

Woooooooooooooohoooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo

I just wanted to say a huge thanks to everyone on this forum who have such a huge great help to me!

This damn thing almost drove me to breaking point  :'( But with the help of this forum I got there in the end!!

Thanks guys!!

excellent result, and its a chilly winter  :thumbup:

[quote="X5 ALN"]
In response to the comments in my VIN devoder post

From my experience - coding the car for SA536 PARKING HEATER may actually prevent your webasto from working - as it may look for a changeover valve (which divides the engine/cabin water system so that only the cabin is heated).  When it doesn't find this valve - it will report a fault and cease operation.

[/quote]

NCS expert gives an option for this valve fitted or not.
May help??
Set mine both ways and no errors.
Don't think i have the valve either

Sorry to bring back the missive but I'm going to do mine before it gets too chilly. So far I've bought the remote,

http://www.maplin.co.uk/p/velleman-2-ch ... dule-a92jl

I've looked at the wiring diagram at the beginning of this thread and realise I need to buy a seperate LED. Will this one do the job.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/130404711495? ... 1423.l2649

Is the wiring diagram on page 2 the correct one for my remote kit.

No doubt more questions to come as I start the job.

re. the led is it 12v rated? didn't spot that in teh advert. if not i'm not sure whether it'll get fried. i picked up a 12v rated flashing jobbie from maplins.


also if you have an intravee you prob don't need an led. intravee latest firmware has a feature where it can switch on the side lights for 2-3 long seconds when the webo is enabled... only difference is if u fix an led it will keep going while webo is on.

wiring - not sure what's in page 2 (lazy.. ) but i recommend wiring it in the boot - no water ingress or temperature issues, already fused so no extra fuse needed. OEM goes in here.

OK. Connected pin 1 (yellow with green stripe wire) to 12v supply and immediate noise from the Webby. This noise, sounding a bit like a fan with a buzz got louder and then ran quite happily for the 4 minutes it was powered.

Checked water and a small jet was being fired across the expansion tank neck.

Once I disconnected the 12v supply the Webby continued to run. I started the car and ran it for 30 seconds and then switched off and the Webby was still running. Is this correct. I don't want to go out in a couple of hours and find I've got a lovely warn car and a flat battery.

It looks like everything is normal so just needs everything connecting and we should be good to go.

good scene, yeah sounds normal - it like a good boy does a clean up job prior to going quiet when you power down - air fan (what you hear) is the last to go off.

Is there a timer to kill the heater after a certain time?
I'd be concerned that if it malfunctioned or you forget to switch it off it could catch the car alight.

Thanks for your help Jay.


Caesium
The remote I bought from Maplins has the ability to be set for certain times so 30 minutes and should be good.

This is a picture of the remote kit from Maplins and I need some help with wiring.

I'm pretty sure that the power input is clear and can take the + and - from the usual places under the bonnet. It appears that polarity doesn't matter unless someone tells me different. The difficulty I'm having is which terminal goes to Pin 1 on the webby and which goes to earth. I will be interupting the Pin 1 connection with the LED. Also do I use the set of 3 adjacent to the power in (CH 1) or the set of 3 further away (CH 2) or doesn't it matter. I do want to be able to have the remote set the running time for 30 minutes.

fix it in the boot mate, not under the bonnet, post [edit] 23 here... added advantages:
- ready plug with +12v already fused to take wires from
- no water ingress problems
- no visible wires under the bonnet

in terms of the wires in your diagram, pls check with the manual if its CH1 or CH2 which stays latched for 30mins or x num of minutes when you press the button. i think its CH1 form memory (i don't have this anymore cos i changed it to a GSM remote)

once you figure out whether it CH1 or CH2, re. which wires, looking at your diagram, you should connect +12v to COM and the pin1 on the webo to NO.

note that nothing in CH1 or CH2 goes to earth because what the webo needs is a +12v not a ground.

I fitted a GSM controller from Advent Controls.
It works really simply and is activated via a txt msg so no restriction on range.
It turns on the heater via pin 1 and when it gets warm, the car turns on the interior heater and heh presto, warm car....  ) )

[quote="richie0270"]
I fitted a GSM controller from Advent Controls.
It works really simply and is activated via a txt msg so no restriction on range.
It turns on the heater via pin 1 and when it gets warm, the car turns on the interior heater and heh presto, warm car....  ) )
[/quote]

But does it shut down on a 'low battery' or 'low fuel' condition?  If not you could find yourself with a flat battery/no fuel and unable to start the car.