XSeries-forum

Got the duff components off after a bit of trial and error - could not get access with suction pen so used 1.5mm desolder braid pressed down on the solder bead between the component and the PCB pad - with a flat-blade iron bit - worked OK and could then flick the components off with a bamboo skewer stick!

Now to order new components from RS - not looking forward to refitting - they measure 2mm (L) x 1.25mm (W) x 0.63mm (D) FFS - so going to order a x10 loupe as well!

 

Good on you for giving this a go.

Not wishing to state the obvious to someone who obviously knows what their doing, but just remember that too much heat when soldering will most likely fry whatever you are trying to solder plus most bits around it. Yes SMC's are bloody small so good luck.
50v cap should be more than enough, but if you have any doubts fit a 100v. Should be around the same size too.

Do you have any pics?

Russ


Sent from my iPad using TapatalkyThingy

[quote="Rusty"]
Good on you for giving this a go.

Not wishing to state the obvious to someone who obviously knows what their doing, but just remember that too much heat when soldering will most likely fry whatever you are trying to solder plus most bits around it. Yes SMC's are bloody small so good luck.
50v cap should be more than enough, but if you have any doubts fit a 100v. Should be around the same size too.

Do you have any pics?

Russ


Sent from my iPad using TapatalkyThingy
[/quote]

Good advice - never done SM soldering before - intend to flux the pads with a pencil, transfer some solder just from the iron tip, then heat one end down to tack - then fillet either end with 0.25 wire + iron - at least that's the theory!


Will just use a 10W pencil iron BTW - still makes 400c - should be plenty as the PCB tracks and component caps are like a fleas wing - bugger all heat capacity!


(Might go for 100v for the capacitor if I can get one small enough to fit the pads)

Message of appreciation

Our member Stevejspm has had my PCB for a short while and having diagnosed 2 faults (resistors), tested it on his own car (a risk I guess) with the parts replaced then returned it to myself for a reasonable fee. It was fitted yesterday and now the Webasto works as intended. Apart from being able to see the resistors the soldering is all but invisble and very neat.

Steve communicates promptly and was a pleasure to deal with....mostly by PM

Disclaimer....this is MY Webasto PCB and on MY car