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fuel pump relay
Posted: Sat Jan 17, 2026 3:15 pm
by wizard-58
well thanks for the comments ..but the news is not good ..after driving her in and out of my mates garage for a whole week .on the friday i started putting all the under trays and gubins back and all the engine covers etc new oil filter oil etc ..shut the boot and she wouldnt start and hasnt ran since .have now tried 5 crankshaft sensors ..1x bosch 1xfibi 2x walker and 1x myle ( we were told that if you put negative lead of vault meter to pin no 3 Earth and then took a reading from pin 1 5v feed the reading should be such and such .this information is FALSE as the voltage in the vault meter will actualy blow the sensor coil) also sent ECU away for test no fault found but I still had unit rebuilt refitted to car and then tested for switching with new sensor R/W 5 v feed Y/w 5vault switch brown earth all read correct .but when turning over engine by hand Ign on injecters unplugged the switch does not happen have double checked to make sure all the wires are secure and correct ..now investigating if getting a power serge which is killing the sensors .any thought s .????
fuel pump relay
Posted: Sat Jan 17, 2026 3:36 pm
by X5Sport
What voltage in the meter? Sensing voltage doesn’t put more voltage into anything from the meter as it’s looking for a voltage. The voltage output from the sensor will be very low with very low current behind it either, and won’t blow the meter input side either. Doing a resistance check might cause an issue, but I’ve never heard of a Voltmeter/Resistance meter doing that either, and certainly not on car hardware. Multimeters send very little voltage/current when doing a resistance check, and not enough to worry about.
Some sensors are static sensitive, but we’re talking several kV, and that’s solved by careful handling and by making sure everything is ‘bonded’ including you by wearing an anti-static strap around your wrist with the other end attached to the chassis of the car.
What makes you think it’s a power surge? Something in the car systems would have to be generating that voltage and the allowing it into that circuit. Have you tested every wire end-to-end to see if there’s an intermittent connection caused by a dry joint, corroded pin or worn wire somewhere. Is the wiring loom intact and undamaged? Any sign of corrosion or blackening (due to heat) anywhere? No disconnected ground wires (they’re typically the brown wires on cars).
Oil on wiring can sometimes be an issue, but it’s rare. Wires transiting bulkheads, or through grommets, or under carpets can get damaged.
With so many sensors having been tried unsuccessfully, I’d be starting to look at the physical cabling and connectors. You could have a short (or open wire) in a connector.