XSeries-forum

[quote="jeegnesh"]
I'd be happy to get 5 years if I could count on the car start with infrequent usage.  Liking the lifetime, but I am thinking if AGM is better technology for holding charge, and handles low discharge and top-ups battery, then that may be a better route.  You folks aren't helping me decide.

Anyone have an AGM battery? If yes would you say its any better then a good quality battery (FYI - I thought Bosch s5 was  )
[/quote]

My Porsche has an AGM battery because of the start / stop system. It was dead in less than two years, despite being on a CTEK ...

[quote="X5Sport"]
It will be fine.  It’s the current rating that matters at this voltage and you won’t be putting enough through it to worry.  Most chargers run at 10A or less and that cable is rated at 27A.

Resistance is the most likely challenge you need to overcome on a 15m run.  The charger may struggle if you have a low rated one.  A 10A conditioner charger should be OK, but worth checking with a 5A version to make sure it reads the battery voltage correctly.  I would not want to go much more than 15m without increasing the wire core diameter.
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I also have this cable: https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/S ... lash2.html think its a touch bigger.  Would this do the job?  However just done some measuring up, I was a little wrong.  I want to keep it tidy so its routing round the edges I actually need 20m, am I now a lost cause?

I reckon to take account of the resistance over 20 metres you will need a cable with a cross section of probably 10mm square at 5A or 16mm square at 10A. Should cost about £250!

I put a AGM battery on my 320d after i had a spate of faulty varta batteries 2 in fact one faulty on delivery and the second lasted around 15 months.
Personally i don't find the AGM any different to any other battery it still needs charging often due to infrequent short trips.
In fact it is in my shed on charge as i put the Yuasa YBX5110 that i bought for the x5 to see if it lasts any longer.

[quote="jeegnesh l"]
I actually need 20m, am I now a lost cause?
[/quote]

I hope u aren't trying to wire it to your neighbours


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@jaynana - hmmm that might actually be closer 

OK so 2 issues here

Charging - Done some reconfigured in the drive potentially I could get extension down to 11m or maybe even 7m, can I assume either of those would work?  Otherwise I can install a permanent outdoor socket very close to the car, but this mean CTEK would live in the bonnet, considering CTEK claim -20 to 50c you'd think that there no issue with it living in the bonnet.

Battery - Def looks like my battery is buggered AGAIN (think this S5 has done 2 years, but out of my 5 year now).  Everything I read about AGM sounded like it was the answer to my prayers, but everything posted here is telling me its a waste of money. I don't get why something could be so far from the truth, how, HOW  :'( 

BTW - 10 minutes after coming off the ctek battery reading 12.1 (Was 12.5 straight after taking ctek off)

Hi Jeeg, long time no see !!
This is how I fitted an isolator switch to my car (I fitted it cos as you know the battery is under the lpg tank in my car, every time I want to do a battery disconnect it is tank out before I can access the battery.)
It is fitted to the -ve lead, so cut the neg to the battery  and fitted an extension lead which took it up to the back of the r/h rear seat backrest.
Now if I need to do work on the electrics I van kill them with a turn of the switch, reason for fitting to the back seat , I can drop the seat and switch off and still use the manual door key to lock car .

Hope the photo comes out.

Lez[img]http://http:

I like the fluffy creature comforts given to the switch 

how did u post the picture btw?

Nice one, did not realise the LPG tank was causing that issue though.

Re the picture - I assume via the image button underneath the "reply" posting.

Hey Lez long time indeed.

Can you give me more details about how and where you got that switch?  I'll take a stab at saying you removed the negative extended to run to the switch and that runs back to the terminal, is it that simple?

Welcome home Jeegnesh,this post not going to cost us is it  ) )

[quote="briankerrys47"]
Welcome home Jeegnesh,this post not going to cost us is it  ) )
[/quote]

Just your precious time for now, my posts tend to last many pages.

Lez your a star, just had a quick look under the hood, and it would be very easy to splice into the current negative and stick one of these switches onto the back seat.  This looks like the easiest solution and pretty cheap too, think I may give this a whirl.  Not to mention seems so easy I won't even have to get Sanj out of retirement which will make him very happy, I was scaring him.  (However one or two of my parking sensors need fixing

Just used the icon at end of reply post, got the switch off ebay was not expensive(2010 approx), I disconnected the neg battery lead at battery, cut the neg battery lead an spliced extra neg battery cable to the 2 ends then ran the 2 cables up to the switch .
Ebay item 162560247007 as an example. today £14.99
Have to keep my tools warm and the little Shitzu dog with the carpet.
All the best Jeeg, might meet up at another meet !!

Lez.

Also doing it this way , can still  use the charge points under  the bonnet with the batt disconnect activated.

[quote="lezmtaylor"]
Just used the icon at end of reply post, got the switch off ebay was not expensive(2010 approx), I disconnected the neg battery lead at battery, cut the neg battery lead an spliced extra neg battery cable to the 2 ends then ran the 2 cables up to the switch .
Ebay item 162560247007 as an example. today £14.99
Have to keep my tools warm and the little Shitzu dog with the carpet.
All the best Jeeg, might meet up at another meet !!

Lez.

Also doing it this way , can still  use the charge points under  the bonnet with the batt disconnect activated.
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So still able to top-up, I like that.  Ordered the switch, just need some earth cable now.