XSeries-forum

surely there is a way to test boost pressure. Isn't there a sensor in the inlet manifold that can be read. replacing that expensive turbo must be a last resort

Have you checked for any sign of trouble with the exhaust manifold?

I am just wondering whether a cracked manifold might be the issue as this could reduce the gas into the turbo and reduce its maximum speed thus affecting boost.  I know it is hard to see but is there any sign of sooting around the exhaust?  Cracked manifolds are known as the pressed steel can just fail.  It might also be the source of extra noise.

There is also a small vacuum bottle (looks like a grey plastic cage) that needs all pipes connected and intact or the boost level drops.  Worth checking every pipe for cracks etc.  It sits on the left side of the engine as you look in from the front, near the offside wheel turret

I'm assuming that the blower pipes were all dry, as in no oil everywhere?

Henry, not a clue. I'm handy, but don't know much, struggle with what bit is called what lol. I agree, I'm reluctant to just default to worst case scenario and replace turbo if it could be something else, especially as garage said could have been just that seal. If just that, what else could it just be eh? Dumping a new turbo that's fresh as a daisy and can compensate for the other issue, before then popping because of the same underlying cause isn't the way I want to go.

X5, there was some oil in the cooler pipes, but not excessive (in my uneducated view) considering its likely never been off in her 11 years. My petrol slk had more in than the x5 did.

Can't say I've checked, or even seen the exhaust manifold, assume that's under the back side of the engine, ie can't be seen from the bonnet? Did look for soot type stuff, but didn't spot anything down near turbo, just a slight bit of oil misting near the cooler pipe seal nearest turbo, which was one of those replaced today and likely why garage thought that particul seal (number 2 in pic) was a possible source of the issue.

Checked vac hoses to that canister, seem fine. Securely in place and braid seems intact as far as I can tell, but lots of the vac hoses go under the inlet manifold and I can't really get to them without removing all the gubbins and don't have the manifold gaskets, so don't want to pull off unless a decent possible cause etc. I did find one perished vac hose (rubber not braided) and changed it out for a silicone one (all I had) and it made no difference.

>:( blooming thing lol

Exhaust manifold is along the left side of the engine as you look in.  You will most likely need to take the cover off the top and perhaps a mirror on one of the extendable car aerial type devices and a bright torch might help.

Is the garage a BMW Dealer?  If not then find one, or an Indy with the right BMW code reader software (Bosch Autocentres use it) and see what fault codes come up, or a nearby member with something similar who can read the errors.  It might save a very expensive error if it isn't the turbo.  They do go, but it is rare and normally the shaft seal which given the lack of copious oil in the pipes tends to point elsewhere.

I wonder if the EGR valve is clogged or MAF showing its age?

Will pull the egr and maf. Is maf at the front of air filter housing or in a piece of pipework? Assume egr should have a fairly free moving value type flap inside?

Turbo is giving a bit of whooshing type noise, at least it's turbo, could be an air leak I guess. Not very experienced with turbo diesel, or turbos come to that lol.

What code reader do I need to pull the bmw codes? Really don't want to be driving round much toll sorted. My generic odb2 pulls nothing, not a jot lol.

Garage not a bmw, generic chain, concorde.

Thanks for the help x5, and everyone, it's very much appreciated.

So, thinking of having a go myself but can't find any guides or how to's.

Does anyone know if it can be easily removed from below, as above has the bottom of air filter hosing in the way, and I can't see that the air filter plastic housing comes off easily, seems embedded tas part of rocker/valve cover thingy, which i assume would mean intack manifold off, injectors out and other such removals to shift it out the way, what a stupid design if so!

Am I right in thinking it needs exhaust removing, oil feed in and oil pipe out removed, cooler pipe removed, vac hose to circular waste gate type thing removed and then turbo will unbolt from exhaust manifold?

Is this all fairly easy to do, ie there is space and engine doesn't need dropping etc? Are the studs known tobe stuck and break etc, and likely to cause issue?



I assume that the studs number 2 in pic, are exhaust flange bits, and would be screwed into turbo, then a nut goes on once exhaust fitted? The bolts at 3, to manifold, are they likely trouble points?

Lastly, where would I find bolt torque values?

Thanks all

upex im having the same sort of problem when i accelerate/pull away it sounds like pressure leaking (whooshing noise) ive already replaced the four seals from turbo to eg.r the seal at the turbo end was split but this has no change to the noise. rang the local dealer there saying it may be the plastic intake manifold has a split (they've changed several) manifold is just over £500 for the part but it does include the seals sir

Thanks moose. Does your make noise all the time when engine on, or only under boost?

Tested the vac lines from canister to turbo, held vacuume rock steady. Tested the other way (goes across to right side of engine (looking into bonnet from front) and goes to the vacuume hand line teas from the vac pump) and it slowly leaked vacuume. Is this normal or should they all be solid? It's not the canister as that was involved on both tests.

The vacuum control things that have 2 vac lines on them (one on right of engine under inlet manifold, 1 down near turbo), how do I test these?

I cleaned maf, was fine but worth a go, and have cleaned egr, it was stinking! That led me to cleaning inlet manifold as that was stinking to. Will post some pics but left phone in garage and can't be bothered getting it. Maf, egr, manifold cleaning didn't work.

I've spent 10hrs today trying to remove turbo from bottom (and doing above), what a stupid build! It will not come out from below, has to be from above, so due to the airfilter housing being part of the cam cover, rocker cover, valve cover whatever its called, that whatever named cover has to come off, which will make a far easier job of the turbo as was a right faff from below.

Does anyone know where I can find details on what bolts and what bits need to come off with the valve cover thing? There a lots of bits there and don't want to remove stuff that can stay on it, and visa versa.

Also, need the torque values for putting the air intake and the valve cover back, anyone have them or know where I can get them from?

Thanks

.

in bentleys repair book intake manifold to cylinder head (m7) 15nm  11 ft lb. exhaust manifold to head (m7) 20 nm  15 lb ft
my noise comes under acceleration also when towing my caravan, there is no smoke from exhaust hardly uses any oil but inside the pipes going to the egr valve its slightly wet with oil, i had the inlet manifold of yesterday counld not find any trace of cracking in the plastic,  so back to head under bonnet time.
the slight vacume leak should not matter as it will be vacuming all the time when engine is running
ive just watched this on you tube in german but it may give you an insight
TURBOLADER WECHSELN | BMW Turbo erneuern [Tutorial] HD Turbocharger change

Thanks moose, will have a look and thanks for torque specs. Do you happen to know if the 15nm if for both the 10mm and 12mm bolts (and nuts respectively) on the intake manifold?

Also, do you know the turbo to manifold bolt torque?

I've managed to get turbo off today, splitting from exhaust manifold allowed it to exit from below. Did this through the 3 plug hols below airfilter, so haven't need to remove rocker, valve, whatever cover, so that's a result.

Have dropped 1 of the 12 manifold nuts though and can't find it, arse!

Decided to replace exhaust manifold with a cast one, as this one is alloy or something. Given I need the gaskets anyway (wish I'd have known could have left manifold on) it's only another £30 to go to iron, so why not eh.

The stinking egr and inlet manifold, was a mess: (sorry about pic size, not sure why not resizing)

Thanks x5  ::) (from the power post - thought best to keep the turbo stuff in this thread for future viewers who may find it with similar issues).

Realoem offers a turbo part number of:  11657791046

But turbo taken off says:


I can match the start of the part number 753392, but most advertised then offer additional digits after than, so have no idea if they fit and be correct etc.

Having reviewed Honeywell Garrett website, this part number 753392-7 looks like examples of oem part, but the turbo isn't bmw badged! This part number brings up nothing on the HG website.

So, having checked the HG site against the bmw part number, it brings up 3 possible matches, all of which are hypened by a 5, not a 7 like the one taken off.

All three suggestions have been superceded by 753392-5019Sunday, so I believe that to be the correct part I need, although perhaps the former -5001S, -5016S or -5017s could also work?

Why's it never easy eh!

The middle number matches the Garret GT2260V series lookup table too, final letter is an F and you have an I which I suspect is a local (GT) mod code as the numbers match BMW E53 3.0D 2004 onwards.

http://www.dieselevante.it/turbocharger ... am=GT2260V

It may of course have been changed in the past, hence not having an OEM badge?

hello mate your intake manifold is in same condition as mine, ckeck for cracks,

i replaced the egr valve fitted a bypass valve of ebay about £65 but has made no diference up to now

in the manual 10mm is 10nm 12mm is 15nm, exhaust manifold to cylender head m7 20nm. cant find turbo to cylender head tourqe

cast iron manifold seems like a good change from whats been said on forums
what year is your x5

Thanks for them values mouse, much appreciated as the online manual is useless at giving theme lol.

It's a 55 plate, late 2005. I would guess that muck is years worth, and the bit of oil from turbo has wet it over last few months. Furthest away pipes were sooty and dry, getting wetter nearer the front of the car until like an oil glue gloop in the first couple.

Will check the intake manifold, although nothing major and held petrol for half hour without leaking. But will try to seal it up and get some pressure in it. If not, when all back together, should be able to test for leaks when running - will it be an in or out leak at the intake manifold with engine on? Not sure if the engine will suck more than is being pushed at tick over.

So where are you up to  with your fixes now then?

X5sport, thanks for looking into this. Ive looked and that table offers the suffix of 0001, but Garrett website offers 5001 (plus others up to 5018) so still not sure what I need to order lol. as haven't seen a 753392-0001 on my various investigations.

Edit:
Had a reply from an eBay seller (sells lots of new and recon turbos) who says if the 753392 is the same, it's ok. The suffix doesn't matter. I'm inclined to believe given that garretts own website shows suffix numbers being superceded for the listing for x5 units.

Can anyone confirm or contest this view/claim please?

Thanks