XSeries-forum

Brilliant

Thanks for the reply
Didn't think about part number on there.

Will quizz the garage as have asked already.

I'd have hoped an indie knows the difference and if switching away from the standard AGM I'd have expected to hear a good reason why and maybe a call to confirm that it's ok to proceed 1st.

If it was my car I think I would be insisting that I want an AGM in there, same spec as the original that came out (which maybe 92ah now according to realoem). Exide do one. Then confirmation that it's coded still as 90ah_agm. Then the new battery is registered.

Like X5Sport said, the voltage are different so I wonder if they did code it as a non-agm or just register a new one of the same type.

Getting an AGM fitted as we speak and coded

I have a suspicion the last one was coded as the same type as old one assuming it wasn't an AGM due to non markings as watched a few settings when they were doing it on autologic machine

New AGM battery fitted
Coded to same type which as pointed out was AGM



2 software updates
CAS Car Access System
And
Heat and air conditioning

Not sure what the updates do.



Just popped out to check after leaving the car locked for over an hour and so should be in sleep mode and increased battery discharge pops on again and clocks reset!!

Took key out and put back in and the fault of increased discharge battery disappeared

Will go back out in an hour and check again, but I'm sure clocks and message will pop up again

Next up will be blower regulator as pointed out in above link, also suggested may require a new one as reason why it causes a pulsating sound from around that area of dash

Just went to check again after an hour stand down

Fault didn't pop back up, so will check again tomorrow when wife takes it out

Fingers crossed 

Still an issue as wife said

Bing "increased battery discharge"

Just got home and did 20 mins on motorway to make sure okay for tomorrow

Strange thing is it could pop up with message, take key out and put back in an error goes away.

I'm lost with it!

if the specialist has an Autologic system then get them to check the errors and clear them down.

If that still gets nowhere, then it will be time to go to a BMW Dealership...

Already cleared fault codes

BMW dealer, I'm scared with the hourly rate!

[quote="99ron"]
Good advice. Then if that's ok read this...
https://www.picoauto.com/library/case-s ... tery-drain
Don't you have a problem with a blower regulator?
[/quote]

This link also suggests maybe heater blower fan too

What I don't get is how these things can draw power when switched off
http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showth ... p?t=881860

I have comfort access, seems like these are problematic to battery issues too from google searches

Wife has just got home and said its binged, reset and radio volume muted when starting

Just looked at the halfords charger I've got but doesn't state AGM

Just says leads and Gel type

So had a day of it being okay, so maybe it just needs a good charge

I have a ctek 5.0 on its way, but probably not arriving until Monday

Anyway I managed to get to the hidden menu and unlock to the battery voltage reading but unsure what it should be

First start up, engine off
11.8v


At idle with lights, idrive screen on, climate control on it was hovering about 14.5v

Turned off lights, idrive and climate and was about 15.0v when at idle

Then I switched engine off and dropped to 12.6v



What should it be when off, idle with electrics on and off and then turned off again?

You need to measure it under the bonnet 4 hours after the car was last used, and whilst it is still 'asleep'.  Using the on board system will put the battery under load and you will get the wrong figures.  These cars can draw a significant amount of current even doing nothing.  My X6 draws just over 60A in 'radio ready'.  That's why the hidden menu is of little use.

That being said, 11.8V with the car asleep and at the bonnet points means a duff battery.  It should be at least 12.6V, off load, car asleep.  14.5V running is fine though.

You do need to get hold of a voltmeter.  Sorry but there is no other way to do this.  Lock the car with the bonnet up and come back after 4 hours.  Don't unlock, or do anything other than measure the voltage under the bonnet.  It should be at least 12.6V.  If it is 12V or less then that battery is no good or you have bad connections somewhere in the battery links.  The alternator looks fine.

A fully charged AGM battery has 2.09V per cell and 6 cells, so giving just over 12.5V - OFF LOAD

Will try and get hold of a voltmeter

Where do I make connections under then bonnet?

Maybe you got a faulty battery, sometimes we overthink things. I would return the battery under warranty
Then if the next battery still has issues, then dig a little deeper.