Possible turbo issue? Engine much louder under acceleration & less go at speed

[Upex]

Cheers moose, the outer blades do have very small marks, but not on housing, I assumed was due to 135k miles worth of spinning lol.

Horizon, no, not done anything with old turbo, just took it off and put in garage as had the new one, so didn't bother sending off or whatnot.

Had the new turbo brought power back, I'd get another or send this off without hesitation, but as the new turbo made sod all difference, I'm thinking there a chance the turbo isn't the issue, hence wanting to figure out how to clear the codes and wondering if using the old one to trouble shoot once codes cleared is worth the effort. Just don't have the diagnosis experience to make an informed call lol. Not a clue what the charge pressure code could have been caused by...

[grumpywurzel]

[quote="Horizon"]
[quote="moose04"]
the front of the compressor wheel what i can see of the photo's looks to me like it has play in the bearing the fines have a slight burring were there catching the housing, my fines looked the same as yours as per photo, but when they split the turbo it was the smaller fines inside were damaged, plus i had oil everywhere.

i haven't a clue which cable to use sorry
[/quote]

Have you taken your old unit to a recommended turbo repair company to get a report quote for overhauling it.
Sorry if you already have, as I'm not trawling back through all the posts, must be one of the longest ever.

[Upex]

Sounds like a good approach folks, thought they'd need it for a week etc, hence just bought a new one, but as that went down the dunny it was a waste of time lol. Will try to find one local so can pop in, as would rather buy another than waste another 2 weeks, need the car back to keep the wife out of mine given she already pronged it!

Anyone know any turbo folks that could test it near norwich / in norfolk?

[Upex]

Local place want 75 squid (plus postage costs) to test the old turbo and need to send it off, that seem excessive?

[Upex]

So, old turbo back on, along with the 2 new vacuume controllers and the new inlet manifold pressure sensor, new glow plugs and new glow plug controller.

Power is worse than it was before lol. Couldn't get her above 65 at all. Feels like some sort of limp mode. Give it a full pedal of gas and it just crawls up in speed, with revs jumping to 3ish but no more.

Erased all the old codes (via bmw scanner 1.4.0) and now have far fewer lol. Just 2 left in the dde now:

    3F01 (16129) manifold pressure sensor

    4501 (17665) exhaust recirculation regulation


Would therefore appear that she doesn't like the new manifold sensor? If this is the one on the back on the inlet manifold?

I also swapped over the vac lines from the egr vac controller. Why, well, having replaced all lines 1 by 1, they were on there in the same way as when purchased the car, however looking at realoem it shows the lines being the other way around.

The way I had it set, was that the egr was fed from the inner nipple of the controller (the out one), the same as the turbo one (vac in to controller on outer nipple, then the line to the turbo/egr from the inner nipple. Realoem shows it this way for turbo, but egr is shown the other way around:

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=FB72-EUR-08-2005-E53-BMW-X5_30d&diagId=11_2336

Do you think that me reversing the pipes to the egr controller would cause the 4501 error?

also, should there be a spring or something within the turbo for the wastegate thingy that the vac opens (or closes, not sure which way round it works)? I took the arm off the pivot before putting turbo back on, to see if it was stuck etc, but it moved very freely, ie flapped between open and closed if you rotated the turbo (didn't need your move the actuation arm by force).

[Upex]

So, just reversed the vac lines to the egr vacumme controller (so back to what they originally were, now opposite to realoem diagram) and put the old MAP back on the rear of intake manifold, and having cleared codes driven and rescan, I'm down to one code,

41E2 [16866] Exhaust recirculation actuator

She also drove a lot better, had more go than I remember and hundred percent more go that whatever limp mode thing happened due to either the vac lines being crossed, or that new map sensor.

Would the above code relate to the vacumme controller that feeds the egr?

Think I'm getting somewhere finally, although the old turbo is definitely in need of replacement, as whistling a bit.

Engine still much louder though, especially under hard acceleration, more so than can be explained by the engine cover not being on.

[X5Sport]

Is the exhaust OK?  No gas leaks on that side and going further back?

At least you are getting somewhere and the turbo does whistle on the 3.0d.  Certainly loud enough to hear with the window open.

Could it be that a service was done and hoses not refitted correctly?

[Steamyrotter]

Have you checked the Injectors and injector wiring??

manifold pressure could be fuel rail??

Mine used to be a pig to start when warm due to 2 injectors leaking and it ran pants for a few minutes.

(Apologies if done as not read the whole post)

[Upex]

So, have removed the inlet manifold again (about 4 times today lol least I know new gaskets aren't needed every time lol) and linked up vac gague to new vac control (egr one of course) and it wasn't holding vac. At all. It was going to circa half bar and dropping to near zero, back to half bar and repeat.

Tested it (not sure how they should work to be honest) and it held vac solid off car, didn't even need to cover the other hole.

Tested both the bmw originals I removed and one wouldn't hold vac at all, and the other only held vac if I covered the other hole.

I've put the original one that held vac with hole covered and she got a lot more power back, and no more errors. This one held a solid vac at idle to.

Not sure if it's my memory/paranoia, but doesn't feel back 100%, but given that she last drove 100% in Feb, it could be my memory I guess.

Still sounds louder than I seem to recall, but again, could be my memory.

I'm calling it quits for now, will see if any codes pop up over a few weeks of use.

Thanks for your replied today X5sport and Steamyrotter, in reply:

Not checked injectors, what would I be looking for? Have noticed a crack in the outter sheath of one of the paired wires going to injectors (I think anyhow, they twisted pairs of wires leading to the injector (?) that sits above each cylinder, and those twisted pairs of wires are quiet stiff/brittle, so need to look at replacing them.

Manifold pressure error went away when I put old map sensor back in.

Starts lovely, no issues there, never was even when all glow plugs showing faults (except once when stood in minus 16deg for a week, that took a few cranks to get going lol).

Haven't checked exhaust, don't have smoke or pressure tester, but certainly nothing obvious and was under there with her running when changed diesel filter.

What hoses do you mean x5sport? Only me serviced her, although did get the shop (same that diagnosed turbo issue) to change brake fluid and coolant as I didn't have time before driving to skiing, that's the only time in my ownership that anyone else touched her before trouble started, but that was only 3 weeks lol.

Actually I believe that garage didn't change coolant, as I wanted to change stat yesterday, and the drain plug broke off, was well corroded and hadn't been touched in a long time, so unless there another drain (is it bottom left of rad when looking as if driving), they didn't drain via that one, wasters, 200% not using them again lol.

[Upex]

So, 2 brand new bmw vac controllers (200 squid, ripoff) fitted, still the same, not back to proper power.

Should there be a noticeable difference driving with maf unplugged vs plugged in? As I can't really tell any difference, so wonder if maf is shot and I'm running on a default fuel ratio, hence no difference?

However i have no codes, but do get codes when maf is unplugged.

[Upex]

So ive measured the specs with the two new controllers fitted, anyone know if these all look ok, or not?

EGR side:

Vac pressure (measured between EGR and controller):
  At idle 0.4 or 0.5 bar,
  Slowly increase to 2k revs, 0.4 to 0.5 bar,
  Fast increase to 2k revs, drops to zero.

Voltage and resistance:
  Controller itself 16.4 ohm
  At the plug:
      Power off -  41.5 k ohm
      Power on but engine off - 0 ohm and 9.2v
      At idle - 0 ohm and 11.5v


Turbo side:

Vac pressure (measured between turbo and controller):
  At idle 0.8 bar,
  Slowly increase or fast increase to 2k revs, no change until drops to 0 upon release of throtal.

Voltage and resistance:
  Controller itself 16.6 ohm
  At the plug:
      Power off - 1.25 m ohm
      Power on but engine off - 0 ohm and 9.3v
      At idle - 0 ohm and 11.5v

The one thing I noticed though, is that whilst the EGR side controller was off, I applied manual vac to EGR whilst engine idling, at .5 bar there was no difference, but between 0.6 and 0.8 bar of vac the engine got quieter, and sounded much more like it used to pre issues.

I assume that the egr opens at say 0.6 bar then, and with it opening, the flow of exhaust gas has somehow made it quieter - could this be a sign of where the issues are? When is the EGR supposed to be open and when closed?

[Horizon]

I would have thought the EGR would open when the control valve  operated, not just vac pressure dependant.
You should be able to plug the pipe to the EGR valve, rendering it closed all the time and it shouldn't affect the running, especially at idle.
Manually opening the EGR valve  at idle should negatively affect  the running quality I would have thought.

[Upex]

Is the control valve purpose not purely to supply vac or not to the egr?

If EGR supposed to be closed at idle, then I wonder if there should be no vac, vs the 0.4/5 I'm getting?

Definately improved the engine noise when I opened the EGR manually.

Will try blocking EGR vac line again and report back, but likely be next weekend now, as had enough!

[Horizon]

My vac hose to the EGR is blanked off and it runs perfectly, and doesn't fill the inlet manifold with crud

[Upex]

Will consider blanking, as the build up of cap clearly hasn't helped anything, but that said, I'd usually clean mine out with each yearly service, but isn't have time to clean it all when get this car, before heading on the long trip on which the issues presented.

Keen not to be changing set up until problems resolved, but am curious as to why opening the EGR at idle makes engine sound much better/quieter, and if that's what it should do or is a hint to potential trouble spot?