Front Brake Disc/pad replacment options

[Raj]

[quote=""Turks""]
I noticed that Raj had some different Brakes on his car...
Turks.[/quote]

I running Stoptech 6 pot fronts and 4 pot rears with EBC yellow stuff pads and the Stoptech cross-drilled 380mm discs.

The EBC pads produce very little dust but do need a little heat to bite properly.

[Turks]

[quote=""CondorX5""]Turks, any news on options for 4.8is replacement discs / pads? I'm thinking that as I have an MOT Guarantee in this first year of AUC ownership, I may well leave things till next month........it covers all aspects of brake system.......[/quote]

I've not managed to find anything really, i've been busy at work the last few days. I thought it was about a grand to get them done at the dealers... I don't think I need them yet but I was just getting prepared.

I might keep a look out for some completely new brakes like the Stoptech or the Brembo's and put them on instead - I will obviously consider that my insurance will have to know and they tend to put prices up for making your car safer and better at stopping!!!


Turks.

[Gurbinder]

Yes it was.

[storminmike]

Well the weather is getting better and the tools/parts are here.

What sort of grease/copperslip do I get say maybe from the likes of Halfords/GSF?

Where do or rather where do I not put it...thanks....Mike

[Sundayjumper]

Just to throw something in regarding the Eicher pads, I fitted some of these to the back of my wife's E46 and noticed that the friction area was much smaller than the pads that came out. Same thickness but didn't go all the way to each end of the pad.

Can't say I've noticed any difference in performance, but then it's only a 318 that pootles to work and back so not really a big deal anyway !

[AW8]

[quote=""storminmike""]Well the weather is getting better and the tools/parts are here.

What sort of grease/copperslip do I get say maybe from the likes of Halfords/GSF?

Where do or rather where do I not put it...thanks....Mike[/quote]

You can buy copper grease at any motor factor or halfords. A few sell small tubes for sensible money but ebay has all you need if cost is an issue. I think mine is Comma branded - any dedicated coopper grase should do.

Make sure you have all tools required - latex gloves will help avoid some cursing. Make sure you position each pad correctly so as you have sensor on correct pad as removed from old

An appropriate wind back tool or g-clamp may be handy - even though pistons compress back in non complex manner the pressure required can still be significant......it can be done with a large pair of parallel grippers but be careful not to damage dust boots. Cable ties &/or old boxes can be useful to avoid expensive damage from discs dropping suspended by brake lines. Dont expect allen bolts to be easy to undo & if spraying a little WD40 to help with initial slackening consider applying to allen bolt head via small artists brush or on end of scredrive rrather than liberally covering same & so as to avoid getting WD40 on friction areas. Use caution when removing fitting sensor cables as they can break if brittle or weak. Allen wrench or suitable socket set with allen key bit is pretty near esssential......expect a grazed knuckle or 2 depending on wrench/socket set used.


Grease ideally goes on back of the pad backing plate & lugs (not friction surfaces), that contact the caliper. It is also a good idea to place a little on the disc centre that mates with the back of each alloy to prevent corrosion & rims sticking to discs from oxidisation/minor corossion. I have alo seen some put grease on tips of rattle clips but I don,t do this.

This guy has posted some really good guides for E46 M3 including brakes - essentially same set up. All credit to mike (mad russian). Link via this this clicky

HTH - Ideally if you havent done this before or for a while then try to get someone with knowedge to walk/talk you throught & to keep an eye for mistakes. Allow plenty iof time as one tricky hurdle from inexperience could delay you significantly. In any doubt pay for an expert to do this as brakes not worth taking risks with IMHO. Good Luck.

[storminmike]

[quote=""AW8""][quote=""storminmike""]Well the weather is getting better and the tools/parts are here.

What sort of grease/copperslip do I get say maybe from the likes of Halfords/GSF?

Where do or rather where do I not put it...thanks....Mike[/quote]

You can buy copper grease at any motor factor or halfords. A few sell small tubes for sensible money but ebay has all you need if cost is an issue. I think mine is Comma branded - any dedicated coopper grase should do.

Make sure you have all tools required - latex gloves will help avoid some cursing. Make sure you position each pad correctly so as you have sensor on correct pad as removed from old

An appropriate wind back tool or g-clamp may be handy - even though pistons compress back in non complex manner the pressure required can still be significant......it can be done with a large pair of parallel grippers but be careful not to damage dust boots. Cable ties &/or old boxes can be useful to avoid expensive damage from discs dropping suspended by brake lines. Dont expect allen bolts to be easy to undo & if spraying a little WD40 to help with initial slackening consider applying to allen bolt head via small artists brush or on end of scredrive rrather than liberally covering same & so as to avoid getting WD40 on friction areas. Use caution when removing fitting sensor cables as they can break if brittle or weak. Allen wrench or suitable socket set with allen key bit is pretty near esssential......expect a grazed knuckle or 2 depending on wrench/socket set used.


Grease ideally goes on back of the pad backing plate & lugs (not friction surfaces), that contact the caliper. It is also a good idea to place a little on the disc centre that mates with the back of each alloy to prevent corrosion & rims sticking to discs from oxidisation/minor corossion. I have alo seen some put grease on tips of rattle clips but I don,t do this.

This guy has posted some really good guides for E46 M3 including brakes - essentially same set up. All credit to mike (mad russian). Link via this this clicky

HTH - Ideally if you havent done this before or for a while then try to get someone with knowedge to walk/talk you throught & to keep an eye for mistakes. Allow plenty iof time as one tricky hurdle from inexperience could delay you significantly. In any doubt pay for an expert to do this as brakes not worth taking risks with IMHO. Good Luck.[/quote]

Sorry for being slow to come back but that really is a good write up and i'm eternally gratefull


I do have the allen key bits to go with the ratchet set. On a previous car I found this was by far the greatest hurdle...as I getting enough purchase on a bolt. Whacking it seemed a bad idea and normal allen keys are way too small in length

I consider myself engineeringly (is that a word) competant...but nudging the creaky knees age.

One other thing....cleaning the discs prior to fitting...is this a particular solvent?

Thanks for the tips

[AW8]

I bought a dedicated draper allen wrench - Even then I struggled to get purchase to extent that the rubber on the wrench grip twisted on one stubborn bolt. You may need to adapt your socket wrench with suitable gauge pipe sleeving to get most leverage on initial purchase if socket wrench is strong enough to be so adapted.....Ideally have a plan B tool , (owned or borrowed), on hand in case your sole socket wrench is inadequate or in worst scenario breaks.

You can use brake cleaner on discs but to be honest it shouldnt be necessary unless coated in anti corrosion film. Thinking logically re new discs I reckon you could thoroughly wash with soapy water then thoroughly rinse & dry before fitting, (in abscence of dedicated brake cleaner/degreaser).

Dont forget to open fluid reservoir placing rags/paper towel around same when pushing back calipers. obviously make sure you remember to put it back on afterwards.

Apologies for the spelling issues on my last post, (typed in haste & not checked).

You should be fine. Not a brake guru myself - my experience of brake change activities can be counted on one hand. In abscence of more info from others the above should help.

Good Luck

[bonerp]

I've just bought a mintex set up with mintex pads off the bay - rears were out of stock though so they are sending bosch discs instead.

Think my rubbing noise is the rear disc its badly corroded.

[storminmike]

[quote=""AW8""]I bought a dedicated draper allen wrench - Even then I struggled to get purchase to extent that the rubber on the wrench grip twisted on one stubborn bolt. You may need to adapt your socket wrench with suitable gauge pipe sleeving to get most leverage on initial purchase if socket wrench is strong enough to be so adapted.....Ideally have a plan B tool , (owned or borrowed), on hand in case your sole socket wrench is inadequate or in worst scenario breaks.

You can use brake cleaner on discs but to be honest it shouldnt be necessary unless coated in anti corrosion film. Thinking logically re new discs I reckon you could thoroughly wash with soapy water then thoroughly rinse & dry before fitting, (in abscence of dedicated brake cleaner/degreaser).

Dont forget to open fluid reservoir placing rags/paper towel around same when pushing back calipers. obviously make sure you remember to put it back on afterwards.

Apologies for the spelling issues on my last post, (typed in haste & not checked).

You should be fine. Not a brake guru myself - my experience of brake change activities can be counted on one hand. In abscence of more info from others the above should help.

Good Luck[/quote]

Cheers....If I could bottle the words of wisdom on here the brakes would change themselves

As for spelling....mines atrocious. I shall secure the backup solutions as advised....and pray for some sunny weather too

I'm tripping over the box now (boy are they heavy) so best get to it soon

Thanks

[AW8]

Glad my comments of potential use - Good Luck Once again

[storminmike]

[quote=""AW8""]Glad my comments of potential use - Good Luck Once again [/quote]


Well....better late than never...the pagid disc and pagid pads are on

About an hour a side but this did include climbing in and out the rear to get the numpty jack

What did I learn

That the reason one old disk had rust round the edge was because the pad had a bevel on its outer edge. Why....don't know...maybe old pads (plenty of meat though) on replaced discs? Jamming pads that were off angle...dunno but I did have vibration at motorway speed stopping from 60+ This appears to have gone from my first foray onto the motorway

My fears that the bolts would be too tight were unfounded....

Those discs are flippin heavy

a 3/8 socket set (make unknown) with the addition of hex bits from Aldi were more than man enough to pull the guide bolts and the front screw

a 1/2 breaker bar WAS needed to undo the carrier bolts....tough but plenty of wd40 beforehand can only of helped

A light polishing of ridges formed by the movement of the pads in certain areas of the carrier using a dremel. Note I didn't go mad at all and I observed where pad contact points were. I mainly glanced over to remove crud/corrosion build to smooth metal. I was wary that too much might (guess) have the opposite effect and maybe casue the pads to jar

The rest of the carrier was dremeled to remove any corrsion build up....why not

The pagid disc seemed to be painted all over...which was a surprise. I sil cleaned the surface though with the paint intact

After making sure the mounting faces were clean the disc was offered up

Then on went the carrier...the outside pad was offered up to observe all constact points. Copper grease was added to all points on both the pad AND the carrier. The pad had a hard rubbery back but I cpper greased it any way

On with the main caliper... same sort of process with the copper grease. The piston had to go way back in to fit..and then it was a snug fit when wafting it round getting the pins in

The guide pins were polished to mirror with autosol polish. This removed some weird gunk

Oh...and the wear sensor...when you suss how it came out it goes on easy (with the wrap round spring)....don't loose it...it's very small....very very very small

First impressions....WOW...after a small buring smell and eventual evening of wear colour

Must Haves.....breaker bar....no hammering needed
Must gets....trolley jack

[AW8]

Glad all sorted - seems you did a thorough job

[storminmike]

[quote=""AW8""]Glad all sorted - seems you did a thorough job [/quote]

Maybe a tad anal but I guessed that free movement without rattle would only help.

Some surfaces had no wear at all just clean areas. One part did look like jamming was possible, the bit where the ears of the pad sort of hook over the piston caliper bit. I just knocked of any microscopic ridges with the merest of dusting with the dremel

I'm quite please with how it turned out. Last time I tried something like this I didn't have a breaker bar nor hex sockets....allen keys without extension just don't cut it. I did try hammering an allen key before but it just bounces...best £2 I spent at ALDI ever for 3/8 set

The back handbrake needs adjusting but I'll let my back recover from chucking wheels around first. I'd even be tempted to replace the rears entirely but that's another wedge

PS....thanks to all contributors above

[scooby1doo1]

will need some front disc in a few months, what do you's think of http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Front-Brembo- ... 43a7217731

or some abit more expensive

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Brembo-Drille ... 4cecf8d071