XSeries-forum

Not hard too see why x3 has more issues as it seems the rolling radius is a bit mismatched compared to other x models, x5 e70 on 20's exact match front to rear.

Okay, here is the update. New tyres have been ordered and fitted yesterday afternoon. On the road the drive is so much nicer it's quite unbelievable that its caused that much difference. But when you accelerate you still get a shuddering or slipping. so The next step I think could be to remove and check the servo gear. Use a scanner to check for a fault code, may be an oil change but also I read a thread on another forum to disconnect the plug from the control unit to take the Transfer out of the scene. This should put it I rear wheel drive to see if it's the gearbox faulty or the transmission.

There are posts that if you change the oil in the transfer case you have to calibrate it. Does anyone know what the software or analyser is that I need

Thanks

Glad it’s at least part solved the troubles. You are far from being the first to be hit with this, and sadly won’t be the last. You definitely need a check done in case the damage is permanent.

Not all scanners can read the transmission modules. If you have a Bosch Autocentre nearby, their tools can (as can any main dealer). A local transmission specialist may also be able to help.

The manual says the adaption values need resetting but only says to look at the Service Functions. That usually means you need a copy of BMW ISTA or DIS, a cable and a laptop. I can’t say whether tools like Bimmercode or Carly can also do what you need.

I not that long ago changed the transfer case oil, I think it’s on here somewhere, I have a slight whirring noise on mine, which is present in drive or coasting, sounds like a brake whirring noise, not been able to track it. Having changed the transfer oil, I have yet to find a solution to reset adaptions, I have Carly, bimmercode, protool, and another android one, but none of these are able to reset adaptions. It seems only way is with bmw DIS, I run a Mac and have had so many problems trying to get this up and running that I have given up on the idea.

Another thing to check is now with the correct tyres on that the pressures are ok, when I checked mine after new tyres the pressures at rear were nearing 6psi over door frame.

The scanner i had before would do it 99% sure of that.
ICARSOFT BMM V2.0

Olliefrom83 wrote: ↑Thu Apr 22, 2021 9:47 amAnother thing to check is now with the correct tyres on that the pressures are ok, when I checked mine after new tyres the pressures at rear were nearing 6psi over door frame.

In over 45 years on the road, I've never had new tyres fitted that were the right pressure. The first thing I do when I get home is check them.

Olliefrom83 wrote: ↑Thu Apr 22, 2021 9:47 amAnother thing to check is now with the correct tyres on that the pressures are ok, when I checked mine after new tyres the pressures at rear were nearing 6psi over door frame.

In over 45 years on the road, I've never had new tyres fitted that were the right pressure. The second thing I do when I get home is check them.

..............And the first thing is check the wheel bolts. I know most places tell you to after 30, or so, miles but I've had a couple of instances where they have been barely finger tight.

Alan Gunn wrote: ↑Fri Apr 23, 2021 7:20 am The scanner i had before would do it 99% sure of that.
ICARSOFT BMM V2.0

Is that a standalone scanner?

StuBeeDoo wrote: ↑Fri Apr 23, 2021 7:55 am

StuBeeDoo wrote: ↑Fri Apr 23, 2021 7:50 am

Olliefrom83 wrote: ↑Thu Apr 22, 2021 9:47 amAnother thing to check is now with the correct tyres on that the pressures are ok, when I checked mine after new tyres the pressures at rear were nearing 6psi over door frame.

In over 45 years on the road, I've never had new tyres fitted that were the right pressure. The second thing I do when I get home is check them.

..............And the first thing is check the wheel bolts. I know most places tell you to after 30, or so, miles but I've had a couple of instances where they have been barely finger tight.

Had this also, literally finger tight!

So, a colleague has a scanner, weve plugged it in and found that there are no stored transmission error codes, we have calibrated the TC, the servo etc and it's still giving you a judder when accelerating. next step is to electrically disconnect the TC then run it and see with just the rear wheel drive. also remove the heat shield and check the mounts, props etc.

I'm going to look at getting the bimmergeeks software and cable so I can have a play.

Olliefrom83 wrote: ↑Fri Apr 23, 2021 10:33 am

Alan Gunn wrote: ↑Fri Apr 23, 2021 7:20 am The scanner i had before would do it 99% sure of that.
ICARSOFT BMM V2.0

Is that a standalone scanner?

Yes

Hi, so another update for you, I had the car plugged in and although loads of faults. none related to a transmission related problem. Interestingly glow plug cyl 2 is faulty.

we cleared the faults. calibrated the TC servo run up the car and still shuddering. We decided to leave it and run up the to see what happens. The next day the 4x4 light came on another light. This relates to the gear on the servo. (hopefully) I've disconected the 6 pin plug on the TCM and it drives perfect.

So next step is remove the servo strip the servo and have a look.

If a glow plug has failed (a common fault) then you’ll need to change the controller as well. For some reason a failed plug or plugs causes the controller to fail in short order. Fortunately in this weather you should not need them very much. When you do get round to changing it it is recommended that you spray something like WD40 around it several times starting a few days beforehand. The plugs often stick and then snap.

Although you say the lack of glow plugs shouldn’t matter to much in this weather, I thought they were used on a regular basis for regeneration. Not clued up so just curious.