XSeries-forum

update: I connected the EGR as normal. Disconnected Swirl flap vacuum pipe and blocked it so I dont lose vacuum for the brakes ect. Car now runs perfectly with no errors, thats only after 30 mins driving.

I cant believe it, the swirl flaps controller must be bust leaving the swirl flaps closed above idle speed. Disconnecting the EGR puts better quality air into the engine and masks the swirl flap issue which i why i thought it was the EGR all this time.

Will see if anything else crops up. Not sure to replace the controller or just to leave it as is.
Car pulls like it used to before this all began.

Update: No EML error codes from the car. Only issue is that once warmed up the car wont idle in D or R.
Stopping in traffic the car stutters/shudders/jerks up and down in revs (500-900rpm) and then dies. If I pop it in N or P it idles fine and doesnt die.

I think this is from the flaps being disconnected they are in the open position and the swirl isnt occuring.
If I remove the flaps altogether will this idle problem disappear or do I need to have the car reprogrammed to idle better along with removing the flaps?

Has anyone else come across this? I dont want to remove the flaps and be left with a car that wont idle. I might as well order a new solenoid and carry on with them. Flaps were in perfect order last time I checked a few weeks back.

Can you not just remove the flaps and fit a set of blanks.
Not sure on your car as mine didn't come with them but my 320d dis and i just got a blank kit and removed them completely with no problems.

Hi Alan.

I want to do just that. Remove the flaps and insert blanks.
Maybe if I remove the flaps completely the car will run ok with no idle issue?
Just worried it wont and I will have to refit the flaps, rod etc!

cause right now with them permanently open (least resistance) the car wont idle when warmed up.
Maybe there is some other issue? MAF error, but had that replaced last year.

Im stumped.

If it helps, when I took the flaps of our E46 with the M57 3.0d it had no impact on idling at all, nor was any other change to the engine programming needed.  I replaced the flaps with blanking plates and left the electric drive connected but doing nothing.  Car still running fine and easily returning 40mpg.

Thanks X5Sport.
Think I will take the plunge. If it idles badly then it means some else is amiss.

Update: I have removed flaps and inserted blanks. However the car still idles rough then stalls after warmup. Even on pulloff it stutters at around 1500-1700rpm then smoothes off and runs ok. Im thinking dirty injectors.

Any other ideas? If I unplug the EGR vacuum pipe the car runs smooth. But I think thats masking the dirty injectors. I have already installed a new EGR vacuum solenoid and EGR is spotless and works smoothly in testing. Could test MAF and unplug it,but I should get a EML warning if thats faulty anyway?

Bit of good news, I fixed the drivers side mirror. had a mind of its own in terms of memory settings

Or is my DPF blocking up?
Would I not get an error for that?

Update: Got Amber DPF warning yesaterday! I went for a drive down the motorway 30 mins at least
Coolant @ 90c, 3/4 tank of fuel and 60 mph @ 3000rpm approx. Didnt help though, is my dpf full of ash rather than soot? heard they do fill up eventually.

Depends upon the mileage and how it’s been driven.  You need an error code check to see if a forced regen fixes it or if it needs to come off, get cleaned, and put back on.

If your glowplugs are faulty then the system will not regen.  It needs the plugs to raise the air temp on the inlet side so as to sustain the 800°C needed to run a regen cycle.  If the plugs are faulty then it will have sooted up.

You should get well over 90k from a DPF.

@ X5  Sport: I have no errors except the amber DPF warning. Had the Glowplug control module replaced late last year. Then this weird power issue thing started soon afterwards (reason for this thread) seems it was beginning back then and my indi didnt put the two together.

Hopefully he can clear the DPF and fix the stalling at idle issue, think the EGR open @ idle is pushing back too much exhaust gas  into the intake from the blocked DPF and killing the car. (thats my guess)

update: just got the car back. Mechanic confirmed successful regeneration.seemed fine but on the way home the car hit a limp home mode I have never experienced before. Barely made it up an incline on the road, blocking cars behind me badly. turning the wheel caused it to nearly die. Felt as throttle wasnt even responding at all. No error codes, no warnings absolutely nothing.

Im at wits end.....this car has given me constant rubbish for over a year and no one has been able to pinpoint the issue. Everyone is eager to change the MAF every time with no effect. Been to BMW, Specialists and independents. No results.

Anyone else ever had this experience? sell and cut my losses...

Hi All. Sorted it finally. I had another look and the EGR valve control solenoid was a no name brand type. I got a Pierburg version and voila all sorted. Oh my gosh, dont scrimp on parts.

It's true always get good branded parts.