XSeries-forum

A hexagonal socket would be best, and usually applying heat to the nut if possible.
I'm stripping my back brakes tomorrow and will have a luck at how the hub nut accessibility is. I briefly looked back through the thread and didn't notice which hub it is your working on ?
Any thing I've had seized in usually gets the heat treatment if possible.
Edit.
Just looked on YouTube and can see the nut is recessed

There's not a huge amount of room unfortunately. The nut is basically surrounded by a metal collar which makes the issue that much more difficult. Have got two new hub nuts on order now too.

Here's a pic of the nut. Not great but gives you a little better understanding of the situ.



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I was just altering my message as you posted your photo.

[quote="Bubbaspaarx"]
Turned on my car earlier and got all the warning lights plus a really clunky/surging rear diff when turning sharp.

Can't seem to get rid of the lights.

Did a long drive yesterday but didn't have any issues.

I did take apart the transfer actuator around 4 months ago and it was absolutely fine, no wear at all.

Any help is greatly appreciated


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[/quote]
I had the same problem about 6 months ago and this was identified as a faulty speed sensor on the rear nearside wheel. Garage replaced the speed sensor and now no more issues.

[quote="Steve Hebby"]
[quote="Bubbaspaarx"]
Turned on my car earlier and got all the warning lights plus a really clunky/surging rear diff when turning sharp.

Can't seem to get rid of the lights.

Did a long drive yesterday but didn't have any issues.

I did take apart the transfer actuator around 4 months ago and it was absolutely fine, no wear at all.

Any help is greatly appreciated


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[/quote]
I had the same problem about 6 months ago and this was identified as a faulty speed sensor on the rear nearside wheel. Garage replaced the speed sensor and now no more issues.
[/quote]
Lucky you. Sometimes it can be just the speed sensor but in my case the driveshaft has rusted which has expanded the reluctor ring thereby catching and wearing the sensor


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[quote="Horizon"]
A hexagonal socket would be best, and usually applying heat to the nut if possible.
I'm stripping my back brakes tomorrow and will have a luck at how the hub nut accessibility is. I briefly looked back through the thread and didn't notice which hub it is your working on ?
Any thing I've had seized in usually gets the heat treatment if possible.
Edit.
Just looked on YouTube and can see the nut is recessed [emoji51]  Maybe a job for your indie . Heat and a hexagonal impact  3/4 drive impact gun and socket.
Good luck
[/quote]
How did you get on with your brake dismantling?


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[quote="Bubbaspaarx"]
[quote="Horizon"]
A hexagonal socket would be best, and usually applying heat to the nut if possible.
I'm stripping my back brakes tomorrow and will have a luck at how the hub nut accessibility is. I briefly looked back through the thread and didn't notice which hub it is your working on ?
Any thing I've had seized in usually gets the heat treatment if possible.
Edit.
Just looked on YouTube and can see the nut is recessed [emoji51]  Maybe a job for your indie . Heat and a hexagonal impact  3/4 drive impact gun and socket.
Good luck
[/quote]
How did you get on with your brake dismantling?


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[/quote]

I've been off work for the last two days so I thought I'd have a look at the brakes yesterday. I couldn't decide if the noise was  coming from the front or rear ????
So I did all 4 brakes in the end. The pads were only 1/4 worn and the discs were in good shape, but no sign of any copper slip anywhere. I'd bought a tub of copper slip and a can of brake cleaner so with my trolley jack it was an easy job to pass away a couple of hours.
So far so good, all the annoying noises have gone ( for now )
I even cleaned the leather seats today and conditioned them, very pleased with the results, didn't make the same mistake that I did on the wife's A4 cab that I did a few years ago by putting miles too much conditioning balm on.
Never did get all that residue out

Good work!
I've got a slight break problem too. Methinks i've got warped discs at the front. Got new ones to put on but will fix one problem at a time.


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So......
I have an update and some partial success.

I have replaced the reluctor ring on the driveshaft but I have still got the problem warning lights. Although now my DIS program shows that the other sensor (N/S rear has an issue. (Although the issue seems to be intermittent).

Managed to get the nut off with help from a local indy. (Lump hammer and scaffold bar required for this)


Took it to my friends house and started taking it all apart.

Started with these bolts. 13mm hex worked for me. Needed a bar on the end to get them off though.


Pulled it out of the diff which is quite easy.


I needed to remove the spare wheel box ([emoji35] nightmare. Bolts so rusted they were 17mm in size but once i hit them for about an 1hour, they turned out to be 12mm!!)


Then you need to take the rear stabiliser off and the drop link (or just both sides of the stabiliser and pull down), then you can swing the output shaft out of the way and out of the hub/bearing.

To get the output shaft out of the hub I really recommend a proper extraction tool is used, or a very good bolster that strikes the centre of the shaft only.... do  not (as I found out) hit the end of shaft with a hammer, no matter how tempting/frustrating it is, or you'll splay the end and you'll never get the nut back on.... got it out eventually and spent 2 hours 'repairing' the thread.


As you can see, it's slightly rusted [emoji51]
Shiny bit is where it was striking the abs sensor


Broke off old ring


Lots of build up underneath





Cleaned it up with screwdriver and sand paper



Tapped ring back on with hammer (very lightly... wasn't difficult)


Put it all back together and no warning lights or notifications for that wheel sensor anymore!!! [emoji106][emoji322][emoji898]

Other side though showing an intermittent issue so will be repeating the process here.




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Great write up with very clear photos. Hopefully won't be needing to consult them in the future ?????

I really hope not. Will het the indy to remove the other shaft next time as the extraction tool and puller tools are recommended here. Would buy them but they aren't cheap and i don't anticipate doing them again.
Shall i do a sticky/how to?


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Great write up, do a ''how to'' and may be mods will make it a 'sticky'.
Why so much rust ? Do you live near the sea, do you get a lot of road salt in your area ?
I would seriously consider getting shot of the car if mine, there are a lot of corrosion under there and lots of rust problems are sure to happen.
Just my 2pennyworth , no offence meant .

Lez

[quote="lezmtaylor"]
Great write up, do a ''how to'' and may be mods will make it a 'sticky'.
Why so much rust ? Do you live near the sea, do you get a lot of road salt in your area ?
I would seriously consider getting shot of the car if mine, there are a lot of corrosion under there and lots of rust problems are sure to happen.
Just my 2pennyworth , no offence meant .

Lez
[/quote]
None taken.
I've only owned the car a couple of years and I do live right by the sea. Oddly though, the other side is quite considerably less rusty. The indy commented on it saying that normally the near side is the one that gets rusty due to puddles etc. I am seriously thinking about ditching this one. It's a great car but it has the feel of one that has impending doom written all over it.

Been looking/day dreaming  at the x5 4.8. Lot of car for quite little money really. Also... have a feeling that diesels are going to be severely punished by the tax man soon.


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Finally got both sides done and..... it's fixed everything!!
No lore surging. Completely gone. Must have been the slight distortion of the reluctor ring which is now all fixed. What a difference it all makes!


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Funny i was only thinking of your thread today as I was driving down the motorway and my dash lit up like a Christmas tree