Selflevel Susp Inact?!?!?!?

[X5Sport]

Damaged and flat battery = 10.6V

Fully charged and good battery = 13.2V

Engine running/good alternator & battery = 14.4V (assuming OEM AGM battery type).

Correct voltage can be read under the bonnet with the car 'asleep' (16 mins after key removed and car locked - leave the bonnet up) and not less than 4 hours after last engine run to ensure all charges have settled.  The car must be asleep or as above you will have current being drawn.

[B20RDE]

Sorry meant to say 15 something volts not 10. Fat thumbs haha

[X5Sport]

15V is indeed too high - assuming the garage meter is accurate and it wasn't over reading slightly.  Suspect regulator pack in the alternator itself if the figure was correct.

AGM batteries do need higher charge voltages - hence the 14.4V - than lead acid 'wet' batteries which charge at 13.8V.

Worth a double check with a good digital meter with the engine running.

Richard

[B20RDE]

Going back to the garage today as the truck didn't want to start over the weekend. Had to jump start it 3 times. Something must be draining the battery which is sending false signals to the car. Any ideas what might be draining it? Its had a newish battery (8 months old) brand new alternator like I said the satnav seems to have constant power and also I turn off the stereo but it sounds like that's on when I turn the key like interference. Thank you again for the advice and help in advance

[X5Sport]

When you shut and lock the car does the little green LED beside 'P' go out after about 16 minutes?  It should do as the dar should go into 'sleep' mode at that point.

As soon as you unlock the car or open a door the nav computer will startup - hence it appearing to run all the time.

You could have a problem with the final stage resistor (aka hedgehog) drawing power.  It's a well known source of problems.  Have a search in here for how to diy fix it.  Fiddly if you have large hands, but it's straightforward.

Richard

[B20RDE]

My truck is flat again!! Charged the battery over night. I was told it could of been the heater resister so I've removed that and still goes flat!!!! HELP!!!!

[kjb1]

have you tested battery when off the car? or when the car is asleep after 15 mins?




Sent from my iPhone

[B20RDE]

No I haven't. But I was told by the garage that the battery is fine. I'm really upset as I love this truck already but this is putting a big cloud over it

[AW8]

The resistor you mention is the same one x5sport mentioned.

If you lock yourself in car sat in It keys out and double pushing the key fob the alarm sensors ( to disable the alarm sensors inside the cabin), you should be able to hear the heater fan running quietly despite it being switched off - if you hear it chances are the fsr (final stage resistor aka hedgehog) will need replacing. Labouring heater fan in everyday use is another symptom. Oh and wait 20 mins in cabin as it takes a while for everything to go to sleep. As mentioned the led by auto shift is best clue.

You have single axle air suspension to rear only. The twin axle and adjustable suspension was standard on 4.6is and 4.8is but could be optioned on yours - very obvious as there is a dash control panel.

If it goes up evenly when engine running then the compressor would appear ok. The sensors can fail as stated. If you decide to swap out suspect sensor for new be very careful what you order. I am reliably to there may be an issue with BMW parts system in that an Indy told me he prior fell out with a dealer who insisted they had sent correct part. Best way is to ensure the part replaced has same reference number on it as the one you are replacing, ( assuming it hasn't been wrongly swapped before).

I talk from experience as I have swapped nearside but have issue with offside as I was sent wrong salvage part. I had to get my Indy who is ex Bmw Master technician (and former E53 owner) to convince the reputable Bmw breaker to send me out a 2nd right sensor.

It is essential  the sensor to be fitted is for a xenon equipped car if yours has factory xenons. I believe re sensors are right and left handed to but I am not certain.

Fwiw local to me very trusted all makes mechanic couldn't sort this for me. It may seem like extra expense short term but I believe it may be cheaper long term to find a BMW Indy very experienced with e53 models an suspension and with the best diagnostic kit.

I suspect the last keeper may have cleared the code as it returned again after your trip home.

Going used rate for sensors is £25 plus vat and for re control unit double that.....I am not suggesting it is the control unit though. The control unit needs coding to the car I think. All linked to canbus and beyond my limited knowledge - but logical speculation suggests a prior faulty control unit swapped out but in absence of coding could still show a fault message.

I have read elsewhere folk having success swapping fuses, clearing codes down and or performing hard battery reset.

Considering all above I can see why some prefer to coil convert.

I will update here when mine eventually sorted ( no idea re the cause ).

Good luck

Ps don't overlook the over voltage issue either. I won't bull on this I know little re electrics and voltage issues

[B20RDE]

I have pm'ed you AW8