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spacer advice
spacer advice
I run 19"213 style alloys with Vredestein Wintrac Extremes as my winter set up. The rears in particular (285/45/19) look a little lost in the arches being an M sport version. This year I'm contemplating spacers to help aesthetics as much as anything as the handling is fine.
Does anyone have recommendations on spacer sizes and where to buy from. Also if going with spacers would I need longer bolts?
Thanks in anticipation
Does anyone have recommendations on spacer sizes and where to buy from. Also if going with spacers would I need longer bolts?
Thanks in anticipation
F15 X5 M50d
Aston Martin Vanquish
previous
F37 435d Xdrive GC
F80 M3, E92 M3, 640D M Sport, E70 xDrive30d M Sport, E89 sDrive30i M Sport highline
996 Turbo S
Aston Martin Vanquish
previous
F37 435d Xdrive GC
F80 M3, E92 M3, 640D M Sport, E70 xDrive30d M Sport, E89 sDrive30i M Sport highline
996 Turbo S
Re: spacer advice
Think most from another topic are going for h & r. I have the same concern with mine so will watch this . My only other issue will be if I can change the wheels myself as have not tried my jack with a car this size yet....
Re: spacer advice
wheel changing is fine i use a pair of trolley jacks one on the lifting point and another to take the weight of the wheel on the suspension arm. Also got a jack pad to locate in the plastic block
F15 X5 M50d
Aston Martin Vanquish
previous
F37 435d Xdrive GC
F80 M3, E92 M3, 640D M Sport, E70 xDrive30d M Sport, E89 sDrive30i M Sport highline
996 Turbo S
Aston Martin Vanquish
previous
F37 435d Xdrive GC
F80 M3, E92 M3, 640D M Sport, E70 xDrive30d M Sport, E89 sDrive30i M Sport highline
996 Turbo S
Re: spacer advice
when i had mine on 20" and 22" inch rims i was running 12mm spacers up front and 15mm rears you need hib centric spacers and yes you need longer bolts. H and R or TPI are good spacers search ebay. if you have a e70 your need a bore size of 74.1. I may have a set if you want to buy them
Re: spacer advice
if you get the h and r spacers that bolt to the hub first, then bolt your wheel to that their far easier to fit but i think you need to go 25mm a side to get that
current: 2016 Vw Crafter
2007 318d touring
2008 Transit sport van
1964 vw beach buggy
1988 e30 325i convertible
2007 318d touring
2008 Transit sport van
1964 vw beach buggy
1988 e30 325i convertible
Re: spacer advice
I should have read this, just posted in the buy and sell for a set for exactly the same reason!
X5 sd Msport 2008 - Black
996 C2S 911 - Black
Suzuki Jimny - Black (lane buster for the price to fill the X5!)
996 C2S 911 - Black
Suzuki Jimny - Black (lane buster for the price to fill the X5!)
Re: spacer advice
Hi,
I also have been looking and researching into spacers for the past few weeks and likely to place an order this week. I have winter wheels that are 255/50/19 all round. Therefore the rears will definately look lost in the M-sport arches! Some say who cares? you're using the winter wheels for safety not looks, but I am a bit vain I am afraid and having spent £££ on a decent car, you want it to look good all year round...
I am not an expert in wheel sizes and fitment but can share what I have learnt thus far.
Choosing spacer size:
This is completely dependent on what you currently have versus what you are about to replace with and the sort of look you are after (eg. completely flush with the wheel arch or if you don;t mind the wheels sitting slightly inwards etc). I am aiming for the look to be completely flush like my current 20" alloys and flared m-sport arches.
It is essentially to do with the wheel offset. I had no idea what offset was but quite simply it is the distance in mm from the midline of the allow wheel. Offset is mainly positive i.e (more outward from midline) but you can have negative offset also eg. ET -35
For example, my current wheels at the back are 315/35/R20 and have an offset of 37 (i.e. 37mm outward from the midline). The wheel to be replaced is 255/50/R19 with an offset of 48, so not only are they narrower (255mm), but the centre bit that attaches to the hub is further away (48mm), therefore the already narrower wheel is going to sit further in.
I found two different ways to ensure you have the correct size spacer:
1) Put the wheels on an physically measure the distance from the tyre sidewall to the edge of the wheel arch. With this method you will know exactly the size you are after and can have a play around to see what suits. Can be a bit of a flap jacking the car up and getting a hernia lifting those heavy wheels off though!... I therefore opted for method 2 below....
2) The following link shows most of the standard BMW alloy sizes:
http://www.alloywheelsdirect.net/inform ... _chart/bmw
Make a note of your tyre sizes (eg 255/50/R19) and wheel width (eg 9, 10, 11 inches) as well as the offset of both sets of wheels (eg 48).
I then went to the following website to workout what the difference would be to size the spacers (bearing in mind I wanted them to look flush with the arches like my current 20" wheels)
http://www.rimsntires.com/specs.jsp
You plug in your existing larger wheel in column 1 and the new wheel with tyre combo in column 2
It may look complicated but you only need to look at the 'Rim Lip' row and it tells you how much wider the larger wheel is in mm. This would translate to your spacer size.
In my case it was 25mm for the front and the closest was 35mm for the rear.
This will give you a guide on how far the wheel would differ.
Choosing spacer type:
As others have mentioned, H&R seem to have a very good reputation as well as Eibach. I wouldn't skimp on spacers as they are the only lump of metal that is connecting your wheel to the hub and bear in mind the amount of torque in these diesels that transmit to the wheels!! Obviously hubcentric is important as the forces not only transmit evenly through the spacer, but you won't get any wobble as the spacer is dead centre on the hub. Most websites allow you to specify the vehicle so you don;t need to know about bore sizes.... but for the X5 E70 it is 74mm
I'm looking at the H&R spacers as they are manufactured in Germany to a high standard and have a TUV approval rating (I think TUV is synonymous with VOSA here in the UK).
I also understand that the spacers you bolt on to the hub are more robust than the ones that use longer wheel bolts - although you may not have much choice if you are choosing a narrow spacer.
Prices:
I have searched various sites for the best deal.
In the UK I have found performance direct to be one of the cheapest. You can type in your vehicle and they will list all the spacers. In my case it was the H&R TRAK+ DRA 50 spacers (i.e. 2x 25mm spacers) and the DRA 70 (i.e. 2 x 35mm spacers) for the rear. Comes in around £210 inc VAT and delivery.
You could also order directly from ebay in Germany (ebay.de). It is cheaper and the delivery is not too steep since we are in the EU. Works out £20-£30 cheaper approximately from what I have seen here in the UK.
I'm going with performance direct as they are UK based supplier and delivery is 1-2 days - I;m sure they are sourcing everything from the EU anyway and making their markup.
I hope the information helps from what I have learnt and anyone please correct me if any information is inaccurate
I also have been looking and researching into spacers for the past few weeks and likely to place an order this week. I have winter wheels that are 255/50/19 all round. Therefore the rears will definately look lost in the M-sport arches! Some say who cares? you're using the winter wheels for safety not looks, but I am a bit vain I am afraid and having spent £££ on a decent car, you want it to look good all year round...
I am not an expert in wheel sizes and fitment but can share what I have learnt thus far.
Choosing spacer size:
This is completely dependent on what you currently have versus what you are about to replace with and the sort of look you are after (eg. completely flush with the wheel arch or if you don;t mind the wheels sitting slightly inwards etc). I am aiming for the look to be completely flush like my current 20" alloys and flared m-sport arches.
It is essentially to do with the wheel offset. I had no idea what offset was but quite simply it is the distance in mm from the midline of the allow wheel. Offset is mainly positive i.e (more outward from midline) but you can have negative offset also eg. ET -35
For example, my current wheels at the back are 315/35/R20 and have an offset of 37 (i.e. 37mm outward from the midline). The wheel to be replaced is 255/50/R19 with an offset of 48, so not only are they narrower (255mm), but the centre bit that attaches to the hub is further away (48mm), therefore the already narrower wheel is going to sit further in.
I found two different ways to ensure you have the correct size spacer:
1) Put the wheels on an physically measure the distance from the tyre sidewall to the edge of the wheel arch. With this method you will know exactly the size you are after and can have a play around to see what suits. Can be a bit of a flap jacking the car up and getting a hernia lifting those heavy wheels off though!... I therefore opted for method 2 below....
2) The following link shows most of the standard BMW alloy sizes:
http://www.alloywheelsdirect.net/inform ... _chart/bmw
Make a note of your tyre sizes (eg 255/50/R19) and wheel width (eg 9, 10, 11 inches) as well as the offset of both sets of wheels (eg 48).
I then went to the following website to workout what the difference would be to size the spacers (bearing in mind I wanted them to look flush with the arches like my current 20" wheels)
http://www.rimsntires.com/specs.jsp
You plug in your existing larger wheel in column 1 and the new wheel with tyre combo in column 2
It may look complicated but you only need to look at the 'Rim Lip' row and it tells you how much wider the larger wheel is in mm. This would translate to your spacer size.
In my case it was 25mm for the front and the closest was 35mm for the rear.
This will give you a guide on how far the wheel would differ.
Choosing spacer type:
As others have mentioned, H&R seem to have a very good reputation as well as Eibach. I wouldn't skimp on spacers as they are the only lump of metal that is connecting your wheel to the hub and bear in mind the amount of torque in these diesels that transmit to the wheels!! Obviously hubcentric is important as the forces not only transmit evenly through the spacer, but you won't get any wobble as the spacer is dead centre on the hub. Most websites allow you to specify the vehicle so you don;t need to know about bore sizes.... but for the X5 E70 it is 74mm
I'm looking at the H&R spacers as they are manufactured in Germany to a high standard and have a TUV approval rating (I think TUV is synonymous with VOSA here in the UK).
I also understand that the spacers you bolt on to the hub are more robust than the ones that use longer wheel bolts - although you may not have much choice if you are choosing a narrow spacer.
Prices:
I have searched various sites for the best deal.
In the UK I have found performance direct to be one of the cheapest. You can type in your vehicle and they will list all the spacers. In my case it was the H&R TRAK+ DRA 50 spacers (i.e. 2x 25mm spacers) and the DRA 70 (i.e. 2 x 35mm spacers) for the rear. Comes in around £210 inc VAT and delivery.
You could also order directly from ebay in Germany (ebay.de). It is cheaper and the delivery is not too steep since we are in the EU. Works out £20-£30 cheaper approximately from what I have seen here in the UK.
I'm going with performance direct as they are UK based supplier and delivery is 1-2 days - I;m sure they are sourcing everything from the EU anyway and making their markup.
I hope the information helps from what I have learnt and anyone please correct me if any information is inaccurate
BMW X5 Xdrive40d (E70/2011)
Mini John Cooper Works edition
Mitsubishi Evo 7 (420/380)
Mini John Cooper Works edition
Mitsubishi Evo 7 (420/380)
Re: spacer advice
the 40mm per side h&r i had on my x5 were from ebay.de and i paid around £90 in uk they were more like £140-50
current: 2016 Vw Crafter
2007 318d touring
2008 Transit sport van
1964 vw beach buggy
1988 e30 325i convertible
2007 318d touring
2008 Transit sport van
1964 vw beach buggy
1988 e30 325i convertible
Re: spacer advice
Ashway can you explain a bit more how you use the two trolley jacks to change the wheels, the 20" wheels especially the rears are stupidly heavy to change and I wrecked my back last time, coming near changeover time again so would appreciate any tips.
Also interested in spacers but reports of them welding themselves to the hubs kinda put me off doing anything so far.
Also interested in spacers but reports of them welding themselves to the hubs kinda put me off doing anything so far.
Re: spacer advice
I was told a rub down of the hub face and a thin layer of copper grease should reduce the chance of the spacer welding to the hub. Interesting to hear what other experiences are who have used them.
BMW X5 Xdrive40d (E70/2011)
Mini John Cooper Works edition
Mitsubishi Evo 7 (420/380)
Mini John Cooper Works edition
Mitsubishi Evo 7 (420/380)
Re: spacer advice
[quote="zchap68"]
I was told a rub down of the hub face and a thin layer of copper grease should reduce the chance of the spacer welding to the hub. Interesting to hear what other experiences are who have used them.
[/quote]
if the spacer stciks to the hub it makes future wheel changes easier
I was told a rub down of the hub face and a thin layer of copper grease should reduce the chance of the spacer welding to the hub. Interesting to hear what other experiences are who have used them.
[/quote]
if the spacer stciks to the hub it makes future wheel changes easier
current: 2016 Vw Crafter
2007 318d touring
2008 Transit sport van
1964 vw beach buggy
1988 e30 325i convertible
2007 318d touring
2008 Transit sport van
1964 vw beach buggy
1988 e30 325i convertible
Re: spacer advice
[quote="shadrack"]
[quote="zchap68"]
I was told a rub down of the hub face and a thin layer of copper grease should reduce the chance of the spacer welding to the hub. Interesting to hear what other experiences are who have used them.
[/quote]
if the spacer stciks to the hub it makes future wheel changes easier
[/quote]
A few of us including the original poster are only using the spacers with winter wheels. They would have to be removed to put the 'summer' wheels back on once the temperature goes back up - hence the concerns of sticking to the hub...
[quote="zchap68"]
I was told a rub down of the hub face and a thin layer of copper grease should reduce the chance of the spacer welding to the hub. Interesting to hear what other experiences are who have used them.
[/quote]
if the spacer stciks to the hub it makes future wheel changes easier
[/quote]
A few of us including the original poster are only using the spacers with winter wheels. They would have to be removed to put the 'summer' wheels back on once the temperature goes back up - hence the concerns of sticking to the hub...
BMW X5 Xdrive40d (E70/2011)
Mini John Cooper Works edition
Mitsubishi Evo 7 (420/380)
Mini John Cooper Works edition
Mitsubishi Evo 7 (420/380)
Re: spacer advice
Performance Alloys are well priced for spacers.
As for removing them changing alloys, why not run them with the OE 20's etc. will look good.
As for removing them changing alloys, why not run them with the OE 20's etc. will look good.
Re: spacer advice
[quote="zchap68"]
[quote="shadrack"]
[quote="zchap68"]
I was told a rub down of the hub face and a thin layer of copper grease should reduce the chance of the spacer welding to the hub. Interesting to hear what other experiences are who have used them.
[/quote]
if the spacer stciks to the hub it makes future wheel changes easier
[/quote]
A few of us including the original poster are only using the spacers with winter wheels. They would have to be removed to put the 'summer' wheels back on once the temperature goes back up - hence the concerns of sticking to the hub...
[/quote]
a few dabs of copper grease between wheel spacer and hub should cure it, or a tap with a hammer to release it if it sticks on
[quote="shadrack"]
[quote="zchap68"]
I was told a rub down of the hub face and a thin layer of copper grease should reduce the chance of the spacer welding to the hub. Interesting to hear what other experiences are who have used them.
[/quote]
if the spacer stciks to the hub it makes future wheel changes easier
[/quote]
A few of us including the original poster are only using the spacers with winter wheels. They would have to be removed to put the 'summer' wheels back on once the temperature goes back up - hence the concerns of sticking to the hub...
[/quote]
a few dabs of copper grease between wheel spacer and hub should cure it, or a tap with a hammer to release it if it sticks on
current: 2016 Vw Crafter
2007 318d touring
2008 Transit sport van
1964 vw beach buggy
1988 e30 325i convertible
2007 318d touring
2008 Transit sport van
1964 vw beach buggy
1988 e30 325i convertible
Re: spacer advice
[quote="davyk31"]
Ashway can you explain a bit more how you use the two trolley jacks to change the wheels, the 20" wheels especially the rears are stupidly heavy to change and I wrecked my back last time, coming near changeover time again so would appreciate any tips.
Also interested in spacers but reports of them welding themselves to the hubs kinda put me off doing anything so far.
[/quote]
sorry for tardy reply just back from holiday today.
I use 1 trolley jack to lift the car on the jacking point on the sill, you'll notice as the vehicle lifts the weight of the rear wheels pulls the rear suspension arm down they are so heavy so unless you lift the car really high the wheel doesn't leave the ground. My solution was to use a 2nd trolly jack the pad covered in a rolled up cloth and lift the wheel by gently raising the suspension arm till it cleared the ground. I also use wheel mounting pegs to ensure the wheels are supported on mounting and demounting from the hubs. Took ages to find the correct ones however as the thread sizes are different from the majority available on ebay/demon tweeks etc
Ashway can you explain a bit more how you use the two trolley jacks to change the wheels, the 20" wheels especially the rears are stupidly heavy to change and I wrecked my back last time, coming near changeover time again so would appreciate any tips.
Also interested in spacers but reports of them welding themselves to the hubs kinda put me off doing anything so far.
[/quote]
sorry for tardy reply just back from holiday today.
I use 1 trolley jack to lift the car on the jacking point on the sill, you'll notice as the vehicle lifts the weight of the rear wheels pulls the rear suspension arm down they are so heavy so unless you lift the car really high the wheel doesn't leave the ground. My solution was to use a 2nd trolly jack the pad covered in a rolled up cloth and lift the wheel by gently raising the suspension arm till it cleared the ground. I also use wheel mounting pegs to ensure the wheels are supported on mounting and demounting from the hubs. Took ages to find the correct ones however as the thread sizes are different from the majority available on ebay/demon tweeks etc
F15 X5 M50d
Aston Martin Vanquish
previous
F37 435d Xdrive GC
F80 M3, E92 M3, 640D M Sport, E70 xDrive30d M Sport, E89 sDrive30i M Sport highline
996 Turbo S
Aston Martin Vanquish
previous
F37 435d Xdrive GC
F80 M3, E92 M3, 640D M Sport, E70 xDrive30d M Sport, E89 sDrive30i M Sport highline
996 Turbo S