Hi Folks
The brake pad (linings) warning has come on, so time to replace the pads. Any idea how easy it is to do it yourself? (with no help from anyone else) Anyone know of any good video tutorials on the web?
Also the disks have a slight lip - maybe 1 mm. Is it a false economy to change the pads and not the disks as well?
All advice welcome.
Cheers
Steve
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Changing brake pads (and disks?)
- Steve Blackdog
- Member
- Posts: 65
- Joined: Sat Apr 06, 2013 9:17 am
- Location: Cumbria
Re: Changing brake pads (and disks?)
This link has a good diy although the author does tend to overdo some of his work .http://www.xoutpost.com/articles/x5/bra ... b-diy.html
Your description of your discs suggests they are worn to the limit , new replacements are inexpensive.Minimum thickness tolerance will be stamped on the disc.
The caliper pistons will require to be pushed back into the caliper . You should clamp the rubber flex hose and then open the bleed valve to expel the fluid , making sure to contain the fluid which will expel with some force whilst you push on the piston . Do not do this step any other way ( anyone who tells you otherwise is a cowboy and hasn`t got a clue ), pushing the piston back without clamping the hose will send filthy fluid and contaminants into your abs unit and could cause serious damage and will also cause the reservoir to overflow causing further damage . Take great care with brake fluid as it will remove paint .
Your description of your discs suggests they are worn to the limit , new replacements are inexpensive.Minimum thickness tolerance will be stamped on the disc.
The caliper pistons will require to be pushed back into the caliper . You should clamp the rubber flex hose and then open the bleed valve to expel the fluid , making sure to contain the fluid which will expel with some force whilst you push on the piston . Do not do this step any other way ( anyone who tells you otherwise is a cowboy and hasn`t got a clue ), pushing the piston back without clamping the hose will send filthy fluid and contaminants into your abs unit and could cause serious damage and will also cause the reservoir to overflow causing further damage . Take great care with brake fluid as it will remove paint .
Re: Changing brake pads (and disks?)
Interesting tip on clamping the lines and releasing the bleed nipple when pushing the pistons back in. I've never thought to do this. I always take off the resevoir cap and lay some clean cloth around to catch any overflow.
I think your method warrants a closer look but how can you send filthy fluid around the system if there's no filthy fluid in the system in the first place. How does the bad fluid get in the system in the first place. I appreciate you will get some water in the fluid hence it has a change interval but why all sorts of other detritus.
I think your method warrants a closer look but how can you send filthy fluid around the system if there's no filthy fluid in the system in the first place. How does the bad fluid get in the system in the first place. I appreciate you will get some water in the fluid hence it has a change interval but why all sorts of other detritus.
06 Range Rover Vogue SE 4.2 SC
05 Mercedes SL350
05 Mercedes SL350
- Steve Blackdog
- Member
- Posts: 65
- Joined: Sat Apr 06, 2013 9:17 am
- Location: Cumbria
Re: Changing brake pads (and disks?)
Thanks for that "How to". It makes it look doable.
I don't have any special jacking equipment, do you reckon I'll be OK with the scissor jack that comes with the car?
Cheers
Steve
I don't have any special jacking equipment, do you reckon I'll be OK with the scissor jack that comes with the car?
Cheers
Steve
Re: Changing brake pads (and disks?)
Just to be safe buy a set of axle stands mate, if you've got a tough nut etc the scissor jack is not safe.
JFT96.YNWA
Current
Jaguar XF
Previous
Porsche Cayenne 3.2 (money pit)
BMW X5 3.0D
Mercedes C Class,Mazda RX8,Jaguar S Type 3.0.
Current
Jaguar XF
Previous
Porsche Cayenne 3.2 (money pit)
BMW X5 3.0D
Mercedes C Class,Mazda RX8,Jaguar S Type 3.0.
Re: Changing brake pads (and disks?)
Axle stands are a must have .http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stor ... yId_255207
http://www.cjautos.eu/3_TON_AXLE_STANDS_p/gt04b.htm
You really need to work as safely as possible . Take your time to read up on brake jobs . Diy dudes seldom cover the pitfalls or give comprehensive advise. Find written tutorials and videos by professionals , even read any old Haynes manual because they offer good general advise .
I admire your enthusiasm but if you`re not sure about anything then try to persuade an experienced friend to assist , or pay a garage the hour or so for labour to do it for you .
The calipers need preparation work such as thorough cleaning of the surfaces where the pads will contact and anti seize grease applied sparingly , same applies for the hub surfaces where the disc will mount .
Regarding clamping the hoses ,
Steel calipers rust , water and crud will settle at the lowest point , that is in the caliper . You can flush the fluid before changing the pads if you then want to push the pistons back without clamping .
I prefer to clamp , push pistons with valve open , close valve , do the necessary replacements , and then do a fluid flush leaving the reservoir at the max level .
http://www.cjautos.eu/3_TON_AXLE_STANDS_p/gt04b.htm
You really need to work as safely as possible . Take your time to read up on brake jobs . Diy dudes seldom cover the pitfalls or give comprehensive advise. Find written tutorials and videos by professionals , even read any old Haynes manual because they offer good general advise .
I admire your enthusiasm but if you`re not sure about anything then try to persuade an experienced friend to assist , or pay a garage the hour or so for labour to do it for you .
The calipers need preparation work such as thorough cleaning of the surfaces where the pads will contact and anti seize grease applied sparingly , same applies for the hub surfaces where the disc will mount .
Regarding clamping the hoses ,
Steel calipers rust , water and crud will settle at the lowest point , that is in the caliper . You can flush the fluid before changing the pads if you then want to push the pistons back without clamping .
I prefer to clamp , push pistons with valve open , close valve , do the necessary replacements , and then do a fluid flush leaving the reservoir at the max level .