Detailing Tips

[Avtar]

Can't believe all the data was lost from the old site. 'AW8' need your detailing expertise, my car is filthy.

[Pewters]

Most will agree that I can help....what you need to know fella?


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[jeegnesh]

[quote=""Pewters""]Most will agree that I can help....what you need to know fella?


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Can definitely vouch for that. The man feeds his wash wiper tank, Evian. Say no more.

[Sanj]

Second that - he's good. Car is immaculate at the meets - no pressure this time Pewters

[AW8]

I do seem to recall typing some ramblings.

Whilst fussier than many I suspect Pewters is more fanatical than I am.

With summer now well & truly upon us I have purchased a couple of 10 ft sit on kayaks (great fun in the surf but come with sand and salt water for free).

Whereas before I cried at site of dust, the reality of late is me putting the kayaks on roof bars & heading for the nearby beach. Car often ends up parked on sand & by time we get home and move the kayaks the car isn't exactly spotless & a far cry from last Summer. Very fine sand locally - If in course sand area I would think twice before taking car there regularly. That said at least the car is getting some decent use. Yesterday I came close to dragging a 1 series from the sand albeit my top tips were enough to help the bogged down driver........................I then parked in the same place they had been stuck in !

Car cleaning really not a science & Detailing World has to be the best source of info but detailing can be a time & cost consuming compulsion.

My best advice is to find a sytem that, (due to your likely time & technique), you will be honestly be able to stick to & for majority of the time. Even the most comprehensive routine is only good until car dirty again ! ................In city Summer use I'd rather spend 10-15 mins per day to have a car that looks 90% nearly all the time rather than spend half each weekend detailing a car that needs a clean by Monday or Tuesday.

The basics to remember to avoid damage to finish.

1. Park away from others. Avoid chips from tailgating. Undrerstand flies make more mess over 70mph.

2. Rinsing surface debris is a good idea to reduce debris drag and marks.

3. If washing dont use a sponge - always use a soft mitt - Kent make MF Noodle mitsswhich cost about 3 quid. Others by expensive Fluffy Mitts but I am more than happy.

4. Two bucket method, ( 1 with clean watewr for washing the other to rinse between sections), is best unless very light soil.

5. Avoid washing in direct heat where panels hot to touch - If you must then plenty of colds water & 1 panel at a time and treat bonnet & roof as 2 or 3 panels each.

6. Wash a panel then dry a panel to avoiud cludiness ands water marks.

7. I use water alone in Summer as quicker due to no sud rinse stage & associated summer streaks.

8. Dry using a decent MF or Waffle towel.

9. Finish with Detail Spray and a hand MF cloth/towel.

10. If you want to mess more clean glass fine weave MF & clean water or suitable glass cleaner of choice- Non streak Supermarket stuff is fine IMO. I dont have dedicated wheel wax and Auto Glym SRP is used to rid of marks - seldom an issue as these are one item I try not to neglect - even between main washes.

My products at moment :

- Kent Noodle Mitt
- 2 cheapo Tesco buckets, ( no grit guards- I just take water from top )
- Large MF towel bought from Serious Performance - Had it 2.5 yrs no idea what make it is.
- Wax Collinite 915. Colinite 476 is not far off it & a little cheaper.(Used to Wax monthly but probably nearer Bi monthly at present)
- Various cheap and cheerful MF cloths bought from detail product providers. Nothing glam but good enough not to scratch.
- Meguiars G220 random orbital polish machine, (not recommended as they break down).
- Various Polishes/Pads for above. - Last machine detail 18 mths ago............probably in need tbh.

[Avtar]

Thanks, as per your previous guidance I have aquired Collinite 915 which I will apply. My question is with the collinite is it best to apply and leave until it starts to haze or simply buff as you go? Also once applied I was thinking of applying Autoglym Extra Gloss for addedd shine and protection and would like to know your thoughts and opinions on that.

[AW8]

I'm pretty sure instructions say to leave it to haze, however, unless you put it on thin the chances are it may be difficult to remove with ease.

I tend to start applying in one corner, (say starting with a rear quarter), then work down 3 panels inc that one. I then return to buff where I started. I am guessing rule of thumb circa 15 mins before buffing. I am sure some purists may have other views, however, I am keen to avoid taking ages to remove & mindful that over zealous buffing to the point where I get heat build up & clumping will cause issues in itself. Ultimately I want the product off within a resonable timescale & without residue or visible unbuffed product remaining. Temp & environment will be factors too.

I use a circular terry product applicator to apply wax & a MicroFibre towel to remove/buff. For instances of stubborn residue I maybe follow up locally with MF & detail spray.

As for AG EGP. I have some of this too. I used to use it on top of AG SRP, (Auto Glym Super Resin Polish), some years ago. I was happy enough but switched to Meguiars NXT1 on back of recommendations on another board. I thereafter moved to Collinite Carnuaba Wax as my LSP as I found I had more rain spotting marks with the Meg's synthetic Meg's LSP's, (Last Stage Products).

I haven't tried EGP over 915 or for that matter anything other than SRP but tht's not to say it won't have advanatges. I just personally subscribe to keeping things simple & am mindful one is Carnuaba the other is a synthetic product. Just as I mentioned in my last post I think it far better to have routines you can keep up. I happily use 915 & don't have to think about my LSP between applications. I am happy with the job 915 does & happy I don't have to mess around layering multi products each time I reapply my LSP.

EGP over 915 wont damage the car so if keen to see results maybe do a 50/50 on the bonnet ; One side with fresh 915 & the other with EGP layered over fresh 915.....Then evaluate durability, ( duration of effective performance) , shine, bead, water marks post rain etc etc.

Ulitmately whichever Last Stage Product is used it will to a significant extent only be as good as the surface integrity ( subject to proper prep). For best results the surface should ideally be glass like, & swirl free & absent of surface bonded contaminants. I used a random orbital machine to correct mine initially.........Once done it should only need a light going over as and when required or to delal with local issues ( e.g a one off bush scratch). Sticking to a correct wash routine will reduce the marks & swirls & thus reducing the need to correct them. Correction not a bad thing but it does remove a little clear coat each time it is done.

If looking to, (remove small ammounts of clearcoat), correct by hand then IMO AG SRP is by far the best product to use. Sure compounds will do the job but you will struggle to restore shine by hand on back of using same. I still use SRP for removal of local marks & when I dont want to get the machine out.

There's loads of options re polishing machines I chose a random orbital which is a safe option for a novice detailer. I bought a Meg's G220 but they aren't that reliable, (motor brushes burn out). Harder core enthusiats & pro detailers use rotary polishers which generate more heat but more potential for problems in novice hands. I may move up to a rotary in the future, however, would recommend a random orbital for the novice making a first purchase. It's harder,( but safer), work using a random orbital but correct pad & product choice should make things a little easier. If buying a random orbital I would consider buying a used dedicated machine or even perhaps consider buying one of the non dedicated machine options available that will do the job for a fraction of the price of a new dedicated machine. There's lots of info re alternative machine & kit options on DW forums. On a final note & looking majorly foward do consider that the E70 has composite front wings. I havent experienced how they respond to heat build up when machine polishing & would merely be mindful of this when working on same & also keep in mind that that rotaries generate far more heat than random orbitals polishers.

Hope the above info of use albeit a lot of it purely my personal view & opinion.

[Avtar]

Very helpful and your views are always appreciated as you do have the experience sir.....

[Minda]

Looking for some advice, what should i do to a new car, if anything? or should i leave well alone?

[Avtar]

My first bit of advice would be not to bother with the Smartgurad/G3 stuff they try and sell to you.............

[bullethead]

Not to hijack someone elses post but whats good for getting water stains of the black on the pillars. Read vinegar was supposed to work but as i'm asking you can tell it didn't.

[pvr]

I find that normal finishing wax applied with a polishing machine takes all the stains off the black, including branch brush marks compliment of Mrs PVR.

[Sanj]

Don't detailing guys offer the paint protection which is 10 times better for specifically brand new cars? I'd make a couple of phone calls and ask Minda.

[AW8]

Mark up & comission on most of these is massive & a bit of a standing joke in the trade.

Compare prices of kits at dealers & then look on ebay & elsewhere for identical kit far cheaper - if you must.

I have seen pics of new cars that need correction but if I had a faultless finish I would probaly just treat it to multi layers of a durable wax & top up as required.

Biggest favour for a new car - Maintaining Correct wash technique.

Pvr- How did you find the long term treatment on the Z4M ?

[pvr]

The M is 100% swirl free and the paint is perfect. Never wax required but you knew that.

Surface has been treated with a teflon like substance over in NL at http://www.protech.nl