Post
by AW8 » Sat Jul 23, 2011 9:31 am
Ok let me try & help with some possible diagnostic options..........
(a) Perform basic circuit tests yourself in event you maybe doubt others efforts......
1. If you dont own one then buy a narrow spike pointed head circuit tester- a Draper expert 12579 will be ideal for this, works well & is cheap,(no volatage reading but confirms if circuits live or otherwise). Also have pen/pencil & paper to hand to make note of any fuse numbers & components draining.
2. Drop the fuse box cover in the dash & the cubby cover in offside rear of the car.
3. Identify 2 earthing points for testing fuses front and rear. I use the front pasenger seat runner to earth whem testing the glove box fuses & metal in boot floor just below the rear fuse box. Ensure earth point is within workeable distance relative to the lead length of the tester unit.
4. To check function of the tester connect circuit tester cable to a front earthing point, (see 5 below), With ignition on place the spike of the tester into the top of an actively used blade, (refer to diagram inside glove box), make sure you make a live connection with the spike of the tester one side of the top of the selected blade fuse......if you look carefully you will see each fuse has 2 small holes on top that allow you make connection. This allows you to check for live supply & circuit without time consumingly having to remove each fuse. If tester lights up the tester is working.
5. Lower the back seats & remove the luggage blind and boot floor.
6. Get into the car & lock yourself in double clicking the actuator on key fob to disarm the alarm sensors inside the cabin.
7. Wait for the car to boot down electronics - you will know whan this has occured as the P Lamp should extinguish on the auto shifter display next to the shifter. Additionally if you have the rear locking disabled, the green light in the button will also extinguish. Furthermore check the Light on the Nav disc unit is out. Once these have all indicated being dormant you can go to work........This boot down procedure takes at least 20mins - possibly longer, but no more than 30 mins.
8. Once again & using the earthing points I have advised, (or suitable other), connect the earth lead to make a good connection & check first front fuses then rear fuses now car has powered down.
9. Ideally your tester should only light up for active live power drains. I would perhaps expect the imobiliser/alarm fuse or fuses, (cant remeber how many there are for this),to show live power (i.e. drain). Carefully check all fuses twice to try to hunt out the source of your drain.
10. If you dont have light illuminated on your tester then drain may still be elsewhere. I am not a mechanic or auto electrician so cant advise you how to check for all potential drains under the bonnet, however, if 1-9 failed to show any drain causes I would perhaps check under the hood using relavant power feed pins. I have never done this & results could be a bit hit & miss in abscence of under bonnet electrical knowledge &/or access issues.
Other options to consider........
(b) Perhaps also check to see that your auxilary push fan is working.
This is the fan to the front of the radiator & that provides extra cooling when the a/c is on. I cant be sure if this activates whenever the a/c is on but it should work/rotate when the engine is warm & a/c is on. I am told a defective push fan can cause current drain. Not a major problem when driving in uk on open roads but worth reducing overheat risk from avoiding running the a/c on hot day when crawling or static in gridlock.
(c) Phone check If by chance you have hard wired Motorola V50 phone then make sure yours has BMW firmware installed. Look for BMW logo on boot up. Non firmwared phone can drain battery.
(d) TM I am told that traffic master can cause drain issues. I am told by my indy that if not used it is perhaps wise to check &/or disconnect this. I have not looked into how to do this.( edit due to post timings - I see IanP has mentioned this too).
(e) Other kit
Maybe consider any issues from retro fitted lamps/bulbs, (struggling to think of causes now). Alsdo consider any other tretro fitted kit such as rear DVD screens. Playstation &/or other media kit.
(f) Indy
If still no joy then take car to a friendly & competent indy BMW specialist. Importantly try to get someone who understands various results & can interpret data that may point to likely cause of drain as there may well be a lot of data to interpret. Dealers use GT1 kit, some independents have the same kit. Autologic diagnostic kit also meant to be good though I dont know how it performs in terms of identifying current drains. You may pay less for diagnostics if you indicate to any carefully chosen indy you are keen to pay them to sort the problem if they cause found by use of their kit.
(g) DIY scanner ?
I don't know what BMW scanner 1.4.0 can do re drain diagnostics, (if anything), maybe consider this option if you have this scanner, you can confirm it may do the job &/or you know someone who will let you use same. Don't rush to buy it unless you have confirmation it may help you. As with other data - it's all very well having same, but proper interpretation & correct response(s) are essential. For info I do not think a Peake BMW Code reader will be able to assist with this.
Hope this of some use..........Whilst I can tell a good car from a bad & try to look after mine I know far less re mechanical & electrical issues than others on here - hence my approach is somewhat basic.
Good Luck & please keep us posted.
Gone - 2002 E53 X5 4.4i Sport (Pre Facelift) Owned 2006-2016.
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