A couple of high mileage facelift V8's on Autotrader at the moment, a one owner from new with 180k and a 2 owner with 150k.
Are you just asking for trouble or with a full BMW service history should you be OK?
They are priced £6500 and £8K respectively.
Do these big engines go on and on?....I had a BMW 320d with 175K on it and it was like new...
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High Mileage V8's
Re: High Mileage V8's
My 740 had about 80k on it when I sold it. I know the owner now and it has about 170k on it now, no problems.
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Re: High Mileage V8's
Providing it has FBMWSH and has been looked after, it should go on and on. They other big ticket consumable items to check are -
Tyres (typically £600 - £1000 to replace)
Discs (£600)
Pads (£300)
Electrics
Air suspension
Service schedule (the "2" is around £600 from memory)
Exhaust (?)
Good luck
Tyres (typically £600 - £1000 to replace)
Discs (£600)
Pads (£300)
Electrics
Air suspension
Service schedule (the "2" is around £600 from memory)
Exhaust (?)
Good luck
4.8iS 2004 Le Mans Blue
Z1 1989 Top Red
Mitsubishi Outlander PHEV
Z1 1989 Top Red
Mitsubishi Outlander PHEV
Re: High Mileage V8's
My 2002 4.4i has just crossed the 100k barrier & runs fine without loss of coolant & little oil use. Mine has had new PCV hoses & both rocker gaskets replaced. Neglecting her former can cause eaelier attention being required to the later. It makes sense to consider having the PCV hoses changed each Insp 2 or every 60 - 75k maybe. Obviously correct servicing with oil changes is adviseable & it's worth keepng on top of coolant changes . I would expect these engine to be good for over 300k or many more miles if cared for and not abused. No way of trully knowing how a car has been prior cared for if it's done high miles with plentiful owner changes but evidence of correct oil changes, sensible evaluation & maybe just a little luck should see you good.
It's not just about the engine it's about other wear/tear & maintenance being up to date. Rear subframe bushes on these cars often need attention not much later than 90k. Front lower wishbone (aka thrust/brake control bushings) can need changing at 60k onwards and balljoints can fail randomly from quite low mileages. Outer front CV joint boots can need changing at around 80k. A car with 180k could be on its second set of subframe bushes & Outher front CV boots or on its 3rd set of rocker gaskets.
These cars are heavy on suspension if you insist on (or pay for an MOT), as part of buying inspection try to find a tester with a front suspension shaker as it should highlight any front suspension wear nicely. For rear bushes kickdown hard and listen for knocks from rear or on an empty dual carrageway give it full beans in 3rd and with minimal grip to steering wheel come of gas and back on, if car seems to steer self from rear this again points towards rear subfame bushes, (oh & if you get this wrong it could end in tears so keep hands ready to grip that wheel !!).
The auto box is a bit of a time bomb so evidence or professional repair/replacement or at least fluid change would give piece of mind. Check emissions by insisting on evidence of a recent MOT test as catalysts not cheap. Also check exhaust connections for corrosion. Evidence of a replacement water pump thermostat and header tank would give some piece of mind - listen for noise indicating worn water pump &/or check for leaks. I believe integrity of water pump bearing can be checked by placing correct siezed wrench on the large fan coupling nut at front of engine & spookily behind the fan. Evidence or invoices of replacement belts &/or hoses would be good.
I wouldn't reject a high miler but I would drive some lower mileage cars so as to be able to evaluate condition and driving integrity of a higher mileage car. I havent scrutinised V8 prices for a couple of months but I have seen cars with lesser miles in the circa £8k price territory.
Don't be fooled into think a lower mileage car is a trouble free car...........A car with 59k miles could bee in need of Insp 2, discs pads & any or most of issues I have mentioned over the next 30k miles in your ownership.
History & old bills are good signs.............watch out for driver seat wear on high milers & check carefully for excessive corrosion to brake pipes lines, (significant sections covered with underside trims but check connections near calipers and under arches).
As per my buyers guide check everything electric especially the aircon. If no history of alignment check in last 50k then get it checked after purchase.
In summary if history, PCV & rocker gaskets good then engine should be least of your concerns. Good cars these - even with high miles but buy carefully & ideally avoid neglected cars..... Common sense really does apply albeit a little knowledge &/or advice can help.
It's not just about the engine it's about other wear/tear & maintenance being up to date. Rear subframe bushes on these cars often need attention not much later than 90k. Front lower wishbone (aka thrust/brake control bushings) can need changing at 60k onwards and balljoints can fail randomly from quite low mileages. Outer front CV joint boots can need changing at around 80k. A car with 180k could be on its second set of subframe bushes & Outher front CV boots or on its 3rd set of rocker gaskets.
These cars are heavy on suspension if you insist on (or pay for an MOT), as part of buying inspection try to find a tester with a front suspension shaker as it should highlight any front suspension wear nicely. For rear bushes kickdown hard and listen for knocks from rear or on an empty dual carrageway give it full beans in 3rd and with minimal grip to steering wheel come of gas and back on, if car seems to steer self from rear this again points towards rear subfame bushes, (oh & if you get this wrong it could end in tears so keep hands ready to grip that wheel !!).
The auto box is a bit of a time bomb so evidence or professional repair/replacement or at least fluid change would give piece of mind. Check emissions by insisting on evidence of a recent MOT test as catalysts not cheap. Also check exhaust connections for corrosion. Evidence of a replacement water pump thermostat and header tank would give some piece of mind - listen for noise indicating worn water pump &/or check for leaks. I believe integrity of water pump bearing can be checked by placing correct siezed wrench on the large fan coupling nut at front of engine & spookily behind the fan. Evidence or invoices of replacement belts &/or hoses would be good.
I wouldn't reject a high miler but I would drive some lower mileage cars so as to be able to evaluate condition and driving integrity of a higher mileage car. I havent scrutinised V8 prices for a couple of months but I have seen cars with lesser miles in the circa £8k price territory.
Don't be fooled into think a lower mileage car is a trouble free car...........A car with 59k miles could bee in need of Insp 2, discs pads & any or most of issues I have mentioned over the next 30k miles in your ownership.
History & old bills are good signs.............watch out for driver seat wear on high milers & check carefully for excessive corrosion to brake pipes lines, (significant sections covered with underside trims but check connections near calipers and under arches).
As per my buyers guide check everything electric especially the aircon. If no history of alignment check in last 50k then get it checked after purchase.
In summary if history, PCV & rocker gaskets good then engine should be least of your concerns. Good cars these - even with high miles but buy carefully & ideally avoid neglected cars..... Common sense really does apply albeit a little knowledge &/or advice can help.
Gone - 2002 E53 X5 4.4i Sport (Pre Facelift) Owned 2006-2016.
Site & Forum Admin Team Member.
Site & Forum Admin Team Member.
Re: High Mileage V8's
Thanks for the information people, some very useful information there.