Hello all
The battery light has just come on, the battery is only 2 months old and I coded it via the Carly App.
Using the App the battery voltage is about 11.4, sometimes is shoots up to 14.8 but recently it's more around 10.4-11.
The App shows a fault code of 00A417 (DDE Alternator), could it be the alternator as it did shoot up.
Now the heated seats don't work, I suppose that must be a safety mechanism to save the battery losing more power.
It's been like it for 2 days, it's starts first time. I use it 6-8 times daily for work and school runs and it always starts.
The voltage never drops below 10.4.
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Alternator?
Alternator?
The E70 has a load shedding system which will turn off non-essential systems in order to keep the car running. Electric seats are in that category.
Is that 10.4V engine running or off? 14.8 is OK for an AGM chemistry battery but too high for a wet battery (classic lead acid type). The report that the voltage jumps around suggests something is undone, or the battery has an internal fault. Check the battery terminals in case one is loose or even dirty. Worth checking the +ve connection under the bonnet too. The alternator itself is directly under the engine cover (on a 40d anyway) so a quick look at that and a careful waggle of the wires won’t do any harm.
The fact that the car starts suggests the battery is OKish, but you really need to read that with a multimeter rather than Carly. 10.4V would indicate a very bad battery (at least one cell dead/dying). What voltage do you get if you disconnect the battery? Anything less than 12.6V on a new battery is a bad sign. Can you charge the battery from a charger? If it holds charge then it might be the alternator.
I did have a brand new AGM Battery fail in a 5 month old car so it does happen.
Is that 10.4V engine running or off? 14.8 is OK for an AGM chemistry battery but too high for a wet battery (classic lead acid type). The report that the voltage jumps around suggests something is undone, or the battery has an internal fault. Check the battery terminals in case one is loose or even dirty. Worth checking the +ve connection under the bonnet too. The alternator itself is directly under the engine cover (on a 40d anyway) so a quick look at that and a careful waggle of the wires won’t do any harm.
The fact that the car starts suggests the battery is OKish, but you really need to read that with a multimeter rather than Carly. 10.4V would indicate a very bad battery (at least one cell dead/dying). What voltage do you get if you disconnect the battery? Anything less than 12.6V on a new battery is a bad sign. Can you charge the battery from a charger? If it holds charge then it might be the alternator.
I did have a brand new AGM Battery fail in a 5 month old car so it does happen.
Never anthropomorphise computers. They hate that.Alternator?
Does sound like a loose connection as sometimes it's charging but you will soon run out of charge and be stranded so I'd get it checked out.
Alternator?
This morning I had no notifications on the dash. I ran Carly and got the following results the first is with the car on and second with the car off.
So, it must be a connection issue. I'll start at the battery any where else if the battery is okay?
So, it must be a connection issue. I'll start at the battery any where else if the battery is okay?
- Attachments
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- Second
- Screenshot_2024-03-14-04-19-35-60_dbecdcf9947499d0f71f844b26465291.jpg (44.3 KiB) Viewed 6455 times
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- First
- Screenshot_2024-03-14-04-19-23-41_dbecdcf9947499d0f71f844b26465291.jpg (43.93 KiB) Viewed 6455 times
Alternator?
The pictures look to be the wrong way round…
The first one is (I think) with the car engine off and the second with it running?
The second one implies the charging voltage is too high. It should be no higher than 14.4V.
Really the only reliable tool for measuring is a multimeter rather than an App (I have Carly as well but still use a meter) and directly on the battery or jump start points (should get the same answer from either). You might find it’s actually fine. The first picture certainly shows the battery volts are good. Measuring via an app with the car on (running engine or not) will be affected by the electronics being ‘awake’. You need ‘no load’ readings, hence a meter.
To answer your other question, check the condition of the -ve cable between the body and battery. It needs to be both dry, tight and clean. Same applies to the +ve connections on the battery, jump start point and alternator. Earth straps between the engine and body should be tight and clean at both ends. Any kind of dirt or corrosion (or slightly loose fixings) can cause issues and is at least a simpler check than changing hardware - a lot cheaper too!
Fingers crossed it’s something like this rather than a bad battery or alternator.
The first one is (I think) with the car engine off and the second with it running?
The second one implies the charging voltage is too high. It should be no higher than 14.4V.
Really the only reliable tool for measuring is a multimeter rather than an App (I have Carly as well but still use a meter) and directly on the battery or jump start points (should get the same answer from either). You might find it’s actually fine. The first picture certainly shows the battery volts are good. Measuring via an app with the car on (running engine or not) will be affected by the electronics being ‘awake’. You need ‘no load’ readings, hence a meter.
To answer your other question, check the condition of the -ve cable between the body and battery. It needs to be both dry, tight and clean. Same applies to the +ve connections on the battery, jump start point and alternator. Earth straps between the engine and body should be tight and clean at both ends. Any kind of dirt or corrosion (or slightly loose fixings) can cause issues and is at least a simpler check than changing hardware - a lot cheaper too!
Fingers crossed it’s something like this rather than a bad battery or alternator.
Never anthropomorphise computers. They hate that.Alternator?
I ended up getting the AA out, they tested the battery and said it's lost it charge due to the alternator. There were no bad cells.
I explained the battery light was intermittent and he said that's probably the alternator trying to kick in.
Just ordered a new alternator, this one had done 190k! I can't moan really.
Thanks for all the input!
I explained the battery light was intermittent and he said that's probably the alternator trying to kick in.
Just ordered a new alternator, this one had done 190k! I can't moan really.
Thanks for all the input!
Alternator?
Oh well, at least the cheap options were tried first. 190k isn’t bad I suppose.
Never anthropomorphise computers. They hate that.Alternator?
Change procedure - if you need it…..
Belt tensioner
Tightening torques -
12 31 Alternator with mounting
Tightening Torques
Type Thread Tightening specifications Torque
1AZ Alternator to holder
N57 D30 O 0 / N57 D30 T 0 / N57 D30 S 1 M10 38 Nm
2AZ Deflecting element to belt tensioner
N57 D30 S 1 M10 55 Nm
Special tool - basically a steel rod to lock the tensioner
- IMG_2951.jpeg (66.32 KiB) Viewed 6396 times
- IMG_2950.jpeg (99.85 KiB) Viewed 6396 times
12 31 Alternator with mounting
Tightening Torques
Type Thread Tightening specifications Torque
1AZ Alternator to holder
N57 D30 O 0 / N57 D30 T 0 / N57 D30 S 1 M10 38 Nm
2AZ Deflecting element to belt tensioner
N57 D30 S 1 M10 55 Nm
- IMG_2952.jpeg (151.52 KiB) Viewed 6396 times
- IMG_2953.jpeg (54.72 KiB) Viewed 6395 times
Never anthropomorphise computers. They hate that.Alternator?
Thanks!!