X3 3.0d e83 2006

[Leslie]

I wouldn't want anybody taking injectors out for a look either as they are likely to be stuck solid at that age and very difficult to remove without damage

[rockwell]

I wouldn't want anybody taking injectors out for a look either as they are likely to be stuck solid at that age and very difficult to remove without damage

Their comment told me all I needed to know. Surprisingly difficult to find anyone around here with even a rudimentary knowledge of this. Somebody locally reconditions diesel injectors but I have to identify, remove and deliver the injector - easier said than done!

[X5Sport]

I wouldn’t expect an injector to cause a brake warning problem. Sticky calliper is definitely worth exploring. My X6 had one a couple of years back and it showed up as a slight shudder on the steering and a pull to the right under light braking. It didn’t show up until about 10 miles into a journey and came and went. Heavy braking cleared it for a while (presumably it caused some extra movement in the system). I found the front right wheel was noticeably warmer than any other and that was the final clue. Replaced both front discs, right calliper and all pads. Been fine since.

There have been reports in the past of the ABS sensor ring on a stub axle going rusty and corroding (they are soft iron) and causing issues too. More often happens with cars in salty environments (coastal) or driven a lot on salted roads in winter and not jet washed clean regularly. These rings ‘grow’ as they corrode. It does mean taking that wheel’s axle apart to get to the ring.

Burning smell could be your DPF as 2006 was the introduction year for those Spawn of Satan. It depends upon your production month. It should regen every 300 miles or so and only if the car is fully warmed up, has working glow plugs and is kept at a steady 40mph or more for at least 20 mins. The exhaust gets seriously hot (800°C in some cases) and the engine fans will run on after switching off so as to ensure no fires break out!

[X5Sport]

I wouldn't want anybody taking injectors out for a look either as they are likely to be stuck solid at that age and very difficult to remove without damage

Their comment told me all I needed to know. Surprisingly difficult to find anyone around here with even a rudimentary knowledge of this. Somebody locally reconditions diesel injectors but I have to identify, remove and deliver the injector - easier said than done!

BMW have a set of specialist tools to get them out because of the risk of them sticking. They have a slide hammer that attaches and allows gentle but persistent ‘encouragement”. The seal ring at the bottom can drop off too…..so they have a tool for that too (well they would, wouldn’t they )

[rockwell]

There have been reports in the past of the ABS sensor ring on a stub axle going rusty and corroding (they are soft iron) and causing issues too. More often happens with cars in salty environments (coastal) or driven a lot on salted roads in winter and not jet washed clean regularly. These rings ‘grow’ as they corrode. It does mean taking that wheel’s axle apart to get to the ring.

Thanks, luckily I had the reluctor rings and sensors replaced about 12 months ago so I assume they are ok.

I used a C110 scanner yesterday and it threw up the following:

4A63: EWS tampering (the diagnostic guy I saw 2 weeks ago accidently disabled the ignition start - it took him 20 mins to get it back to normal. Also, my little cheap C110 appears to have displayed more than his sophisticated diagnostic equipment!)

4251: Glow Plug Cylinder 5.

4b10: Smooth Running Controller.

I wondered if this could be the glow plug control unit along with one or two failed plugs. The vibrating knock seems to be coming from the front of the engine near the front grill.

[Leslie]

You may have glow plug 5 out but that's not your main issue here , it's still an injector issue , id be tempted to remove the injector wiring plug from 1 injector at a time before replacing and moving on to the next and see if the sound changes as a last resort , when you find the correct one it should make no difference id think. Turning of before each swap would be sensible and start at front if you feel its where issue is .
I don't know if this will work and getting yourself a set of leak off bottles would be the next step if you can't get anybody to trace it with software. They seem to be cheap now but connectors on the injector can be brittle and easy broken so great care is needed.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/184873771862 ... SwvXhgvOCP

[rockwell]

Apologies for not updating this for ages, I've been away for several months (in Italy - not prison!) thank you to all who offered help and advice.

A few weeks ago I arranged for the car to be collected by a local mechanic with a small workshop / ramp etc. The vibration and knocking noise was a pulley tensioner, now replaced and no vibration or knocking noises. Also front nearside brake calliper was sticking. As the mot had expired he took it to a local test centre and it surprisingly passed with one advisory (nearside front service break binding but not excessively) Brake discs looking a bit grim and rusty, I already had new front and rear discs and pads so these are being fitted as well.

Glow plug 5 is still showing as a fault so fuel injectors will be tested tomorrow. So far so good and will update again soon.