Possible electrical issues with the e53 4.6is

[henrym3]

Once you have cleared the codes and got your cluster back working if the ABS /DSC etc remain and all indications are still pointing at the wheel sensors you should consider sending the ABS module off for repair. The module doesn’t seem to give fault codes it just blames everything else. There are people out there who repair and give a limited lifetime warranty. ie as long as you own the vehicle.

[onedaymyfriend]

Something I probably should have mentioned, is that I had the pixels fixed on the cluster 4-5 wks ago...

Soooo, we decided to take the X5 to an independent BMW specialist for a diagnosis.

Nothing came up. They popped the cluster out, and one of the plugs had come loose (head in hand moment, why didn't I check this?! )..

But now the cluster is plugged in the X5 won't start.

Any ideas?

Thanks again guys, I know I've been a pain.

[onedaymyfriend]

All sorted! The cluster needed pairing up with the vehicle. Apparently, the steering wheel sensor needs replacing now..

But at least it's running right..

Massive thanks guys.

[henrym3]

Now that everything is good, try Greydogs lock to lock while moving forward slowly to recalibrate the steering sensor

[onedaymyfriend]

All has been well since Saturday morning!

With regards to the use of Carly, is it any where near as comprehensive as BMW 1.4.0?

Thanks again guys.

[Greydog]

Morning
Whoop Whoop glad it seems to be sorted and is behaving.

With regard to Carly I tried their App after reading about it online, after getting the app I brought the bluetooth adapter from Amazon only to discover after a lot of too'ing and fro'ing with Carly that their app didn't support bluetooth with the E53 of my vintage. Long story short binned it in frustration got my money back and stuck with 1.4.0 I also tried INPA, still have it on the laptop but my German isnt that hot so again tend to stick with 1.4.0. It has served me well.

[onedaymyfriend]

Hi guys! I had the abs module refurbed and it's back on. Unfortunately now not only do I still have the trifecta, the rev counter doesn't work and the water and oil temp are at the max from a cold start.

Any ideas?

[henrym3]

Looking back at this thread I would be tempted to revisit the instrument cluster and check the plugs again and perhaps use some contact cleaner on the connections.

[sleepyfolk]

The cluster issues sound weird, i know they can cause all sorts of weird and wonderful issues and stop it from starting, cause the air con to stop working etc!

Are you sure your car has the original cluster in? I take it you don’t have the anti tamper dot showing by the mileage?

Some people report that removing fuses 1,43 and 45 and then replacing them resets the cluster power supply and reboots it - check the fuse numbers are right, they’re also a bugger to get at above the glovebox.

I repaired the pixels on mine and it’s a pig of a job but I do remember the plugs are of the type that don’t really come loose, they’ve got the sliding bar that locks them in place. The cluster is so easy to pop out you May as well check the connectors on the back and make sure they are in properly. I didn’t need to code or pair mine which is why I wondered if you had the right and original cluster in there.

As it’s fairly easy to do, try the test function on the cluster, have the key in the accessory position, press the right hand check control knob for 5 seconds until Test NR1 comes up, use the left hand mileage knob to go to test 2 and then press the right hand knob again and all the lights and gauges/needles should operate through their full range.

[onedaymyfriend]

Hi guys, the connections at the back of the cluster seem fine. Received 1.4.0, just need to set it up. It's constantly in a limpish mode, so can't wait to get to the bottom of this. Something very odd did happen yesterday, after braking at a junction SM flashes up on the dash and there was an audible warning. But the odd thing was when this happened the oil and water gauge needles positioned them self where they should have been, then when I set off again the needles returned to the max position.

I'll let you know what 1.4.0 results are.

[sleepyfolk]

It’s all a bit weird,what’s SM?

[onedaymyfriend]

Tell me about it.

SM is to the right of PRND on the dash. I think it stands for Sport/Manual. I've not never moved the gear stick over to use this option, so not sure why it's coming on.

[Greydog]

Sounds really confused as that would be the gearbox control module function? I know all the control modules are linked through the BUS system but that is weird. Clearing codes module by module and then testing to see what comes back has to be the only way. I still suspect a bad/poor earth somewhere when I sorted my poor earth in the boot it cured a multitude of niggles. There are several multiple earth points around the car I found light corrosion on the one in the boot and the one near the light control module in the passenger footwell I cleaned them use some electrical contact paste on the bolt and base (used to seat possessors in computers) electrical gremlins banished for now.

[onedaymyfriend]

Been having a few issues installing 1.4.0 to my laptop, so decided to have a full diagnostic done again at my local BMW specialist. They were unable to run a full diagnostic test due to the system only being able to read 2 of the 9 modules.

They've said that they would need it for 3 days to work through the wiring, but are unable to give me a price. I've come away to have a think.

[wpoll]

The cluster should never read SM - it's either S (sport) or M (manual) - never both together. It's really not happy... What a cluster-f..k….