X5 3.0d 2005 Auto Gearbox Issue

[gaza M]

Hi Guys, I have just got rid of my trusty old 2002 X5 in favour of a well equipped late 2005 le Mans 3.0d model

Unfortunately its got a couple of little issues.

First the Gearbox has the well written about lurch problem - when you come to a stop after about 1-2 secs the gearbox seems to clonk / lunch. The most common fix I have read about is a software update.
Here is where the problem begins - when I read the gearbox data in INPA the only 7 digit number I can find is the BMW part number 7557063.
When I fire that in to WINKPF it doesn't seem to be recognised. Does anybody have any idea how to get the ZB number.

[X5Sport]

This is the box that you should have.....is this what you are looking for?

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showpar ... Id=24_1039

Realoem is the on line copy of the BMW Parts database - as used by Dealers. Use the last 7 of your VIN to pull up your model.

Oh and

[gaza M]

Thanks for the response, that looks like the correct box.
Where do I find the 7 digit ZB number that allows me to download an update to the software via WinKFP

[X5Sport]

The only numbers I know about are on the identification plate on the box itself.

The Service Instructions refer to using DIS or MoDIC for transmission checks.

A Bosch Autocentre may be able to help. When my box failed it went to one to have the replacement Mechatronics unit programmed.

[gaza M]

The plot thickens - I have searched the BMW EPC high and low and cant find a controller for the gearbox, the part number I have read via INPA (7557063) is not even recognised.
I have managed to read the UIFM data but have no idea how to interpret it -

0x00000000 40 4C 58 32 32 33 33 38 20 05 09 06 00 00 07 55
Ox00000010 84 74 00 00 07 55 84 75 00 00 01 00 00 00 01 11
Ox00000020 11 31 32 33 34 35 00 30 34 37 47 31 30 30 4E 33
Ox00000030 36 32 5A 57 42 41 46 42 37 32 3 0 58 30 FF FF FF

Any help would be appreciated

[X5Sport]

Gearbox controller is within the Mechatronics module on the gearbox itself, not external to it which may be why you aren’t seeing it. I remember being told (rightly or wrongly I can’t say) that the transmission system is accessed in a different way and may need either INPA or DIS. The error log for the box is checked using a different tool.

BMW Coders may have some info?

[gaza M]

Update, I abandoned WinKPF and managed to get SSS working - had to disable the firewall.
Quite a slow process, if you doing it make sure you have a battery charger connected and your laptop plugged in.

Part the way through the process out popped the ECU number 7558474 (now found it on WINKPF under GKE194), I just let SSS finish the process, it took about 30 mins in all.

Anyway - it never made a blind bit of difference. What I did observe today is the problem disappears in manual mode and is much less in sport

[Themoog2]

If you change the fluid and filter in the transmission then a few days later change the fluid again it will fix it.

[gaza M]

If you change the fluid and filter in the transmission then a few days later change the fluid again it will fix it.

Update - Friday night, drained the gearbox, removed the sump and replaced the filter. Got about 4L of fluid out plus a mess on the floor - filled it with around 4L.
Immediate improvement although the lurch was there occasionally. Over the weekend I seen a slight improvement each time I drove it. Tonight (Sunday) I drained the gearbox, got about 3L out and it took about 3.5L. That probably make up for spillage on Friday.

By my calculation, capacity being 6L that means after the 1st change I have 33% old fluid still in the Torque convertor, after the 2nd change that drops to about 14% that's about 0.8L

Just took it for a drive, whilst I can feel the car knocking in to 1st when I stop the lurch is not noticeable.

The gearbox is much smoother through the gears and seems to change at much lower revs.

Big label on the bottom of the gearbox saying the oil fitted is for life - Ye right !!!!!!

Thanks so much for your help

[marti]

If you change the fluid and filter in the transmission then a few days later change the fluid again it will fix it.

Update - Friday night, drained the gearbox, removed the sump and replaced the filter. Got about 4L of fluid out plus a mess on the floor - filled it with around 4L.
Immediate improvement although the lurch was there occasionally. Over the weekend I seen a slight improvement each time I drove it. Tonight (Sunday) I drained the gearbox, got about 3L out and it took about 3.5L. That probably make up for spillage on Friday.

By my calculation, capacity being 6L that means after the 1st change I have 33% old fluid still in the Torque convertor, after the 2nd change that drops to about 14% that's about 0.8L

Just took it for a drive, whilst I can feel the car knocking in to 1st when I stop the lurch is not noticeable.

The gearbox is much smoother through the gears and seems to change at much lower revs.

Big label on the bottom of the gearbox saying the oil fitted is for life - Ye right !!!!!!

Thanks so much for your help

BMW "for life" is 100k.....when I went for a service at ZF Dortmund Germany they told me approx every 50k......

[wpoll]

I had this issue also and still do (to a very minor degree) but what made a massive difference to mine was performing a transfer case oil change and VTG oil wear adaptation reset.

I know. Not related to the transmission. But there you go. I had a wicked 2-1 kick, which I was avoiding by modifying my driving habits. Did the transfer case service at 200,000kms (just because) and then immediately noticed I had ZERO 2-1 kick. It stayed away for about 3 months and is back again now but much reduced and I have to try to make it do it - it won't do it under normal use (i.e. I have to slow down to a crawl and putter long at 1km/h for ten meters etc...).

And no, I didn't accidentally reset the transmission adaptations! I used DIS to the VTG oil wear adaptations - and heard the transfer case calibrate during the process etc. -rather unmistakable.

I intend to service the trans one day soon and will likely replace the jump seals and bridge seal, along with all the solenoids. Fill it with new LifeGuard 6 and button it up. Job done.