Heating

[henrym3]

So, done engine mounts, chain guides, new rad, dipstick "o" ring, water pump, various other little coolant and oil leaks, NOT I might add in the same league as V8 Woosh’s rebuild which is well impressive. Filled with just water in case any of coolant pipe "o" rings leaked, good move as it turned out cos the g/b thermostate leaked. Then started trying to get to the bottom of the poor cabin heating. Found the heater valves weren’t opening, as they’re only about 18 months old I decided to check the wiring and it turns out there not being activated. It’s a three pin plug, the earth wire is good but no voltage on the other two. I assume the power comes from the Heater Control Module. Anyone have a wiring Diagram
BTW I didn’t fit timing pin, cam locks or anything else. Cable tied the chain, paint marked the chain on all sprockets, unbolted the guides fitted new ones, new tensioner, LPG plugs and tried a new (to me) method of sealing the transfer pipes by fitting new rings and then put a thin layer of RTV inside the pump where the pipes butt up against when fitted. We’ll see.

[henrym3]

Can anyone tell me what colour is~WV/LI and WV/RE cheers

[X5Sport]

LI is probably Lilac (violet).

[A Blair]

Hi Henry,
WV maywell be white (weiss) with a violet (violett) trace on the wire. Lialic (lila) is lighter. I have no knowledge of car industry standards and colours. However I can convert colours from German, Dutch and Italian through experience from another field. As it's a German car there will be a DIN or a TUV standard or possibly now a EN standard (Euronorm).
Maybe a search in that direction could help.

[henrym3]

The main thing I’m looking to do is run a continuity check on the wires from wherever they are supposed to get their power from to see if it’s a control unit or wire problem. Spent enough without renewing bits and hoping for the best

[henrym3]

From an interest point of view, whilst playing around with trying to get the heater working the aux fan would switch on at 89c and off again at 88c No a/c switched on. Condenser was cool to touch.

[henrym3]

Further to the heating or lack of it and no voltage going to the solenoids I disconnected the plug and put 12v direct to the solenoids. They worked so at least that ruled them out. Put it back together again to look at later as I wanted to test drive after the engine repairs. During the test drive the heater now works perfectly can’t understand why. Didn’t repair/fix anything. You can’t get cheaper than that, let’s hope it lasts.

[snrbrtsn]

Sounds like a story of great success - Well done!
Re the heating, is possible the battery was run down and Ecu’s shutdown consumables ?
Perhaps the electric mirrors and heated rear screen also failed ?
Peculiar traits I used to have with E60 and just a thought

[henrym3]

The test drive went well. Must admit it is a lot quieter at idle, must be that these things sort of creep up on you over the years and you don’t notice. The smoothness and lack of any vibration I put down to the new engine mounts. No leaks, oil or water so dumped the water and refilled with anti freeze. This morning when started sounded like a tractor or blowing exhaust. Turns out it is the aux air pipe not seated properly. Noise disappeared after the pump cycled off.
Seeing as I’ve got my mechanical head on at the moment I’m now replacing the rear subframe and will do the brake lines while in there.