Winter Work

[henrym3]

As my ABS/DSC/4X4/SPEEDO have al lost the will to work and i’ve Already changed the rear left sensor I thought I’d send the ABS module off on Monday and use the off the road time to change the rad and alternator, whilst stripping today I see the belt tensioner is toast, no doubt I’ll find more. Doing the LPG filters, going to check the crankcase breather pipes, ream out if grotty. BTW the FSR I fitted 2 months ago packed up last week. Got my money back and got a Bosch one. Every now and then I buy cheap and every time I buy twice. I will win in the end with the final purchase of the wooden box.

[henrym3]

Today I changed the engine mounts, one was covered in oil but must have been from a previous leak as when off it seemed ok. The other one which looked fine was completely shot, you could move the bit that bolts to the engine like a PlayStation thumb controller. Read all the threads about doing it but I didn’t need to disconnect/remove any driveshafts. Biggest problem I had was when lowering the engine back down onto the mountings, lining up to the hole.

[themoog]

Was changing the mounts on a V8? I'm thinking of doing mine as I've got a strange vibration.. How difficult is the job?

[henrym3]

I didn’t think it was that difficult, basically front up on axle stands, wheels off, long extension to reach mounting nuts/screws on mountings, take them all off, 3 each side. Raise the engine until the driveshafts touch the frame/body. The engine should now have lifted of the mountings. Loosen the subframe torx screws, 3 each side, on one side undo 4 or 5 turns, take them out completely the other side. Lever the subframe down on the side you took the bolts out of until you can get the mounting out. Recommend you do the easy side first (passenger side) only because it gives you a better idea of what to do.
I took the engine mounting torx screws out on the passenger side after I’d lifted the engine up because I couldn’t get to them because I have lpg fitted and parts of that were in the way. You will need to pry the subframe down on the side you are removing.
I didn’t have any issues with driveshafts or needing to unbolt suspension bits. You do need to make a fair effort when levering the subframe down.

[themoog]

Have you driven it since doing the mounts? Is there any difference in the way it feels.

[henrym3]

No, haven’t driven yet, probably another week. Waiting on ABS module coming back from repair, need to replace the two bonnet cables that pass underneath the front piece which unlock the bonnet, one has about 2 strands of wire left. The other is well rusty. Seeing as it’s in the air I’ll do an oil change, fuel filter, and if my back is still up to it change the rear subframe and brake lines.
I am confident after seeing how knackered the mount was that the vibration will be gone. I’ll let you know for definite when mobile.

[themoog]

What vibration symptoms did you have? I'm not sure on mine if it is the torque converter/ flex plate or engine mounts. When the engine is warm and idling its is smooth as silk. However, driving at any speed but circa 2k - 3k rpm it feels harsh and buzzy.
Starting from cold when in D or R but not moving it feels like the engine is bolted directly to the body without rubber..
As a contrast our L320 RR the engine feels totally isolated from the rest of the vehicle as did our other X5 before..

[henrym3]

I had a vibration at idle when in gear which greatly reduced when in neutral or park. To be honest I wouldn’t have done anything about it if I hadn’t been changing all the other bits. You know what it’s like, while I’m in there might as well do everything.