Detailing a metallic white X6 F16

[c240amg]

Hi all,
Since I wanted to maintain the car, I thought I'd add a general post here of what I am doing. As the car is under 3 months old ( 66 plate ), I wanted to keep the paintwork as best as possible. From reading all posts from forum members, I thought I would add my own experience, and hopefully help an even newer newbie. This system seems to work for me, so your mileage may vary, as they say.

Prewash
You could use a snow foam here, but I have not tried this... instead I just use the hose to try and shift the easily removable dirt from the car.

Cleaning
Items used:

• Iron Out - https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00 ... UTF8&psc=1
• Lambswool mitt - https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01 ... UTF8&psc=1
• Gritt Guard - https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00 ... UTF8&psc=1

Firstly I used Ironout from Auto Finesse, first on the wheels & lower half of the car. This had a very strong sulphur smell, so store this in a sealed bag!

Left this to dwell for a few minutes, rinsed off the purpleness that appeared and then started to clean the car using a lambswool mitt and some of the GardX shampoo I have left, and using the two bucket method (with the rinsing bucket having a grit guard ) , started to wash the top half of the car - which was basically the roof, bonnet and top half of the door panels.
Rinsed the car off a bit, then started on the lower half.

After doing all the lower part of the panels and lower part of the car, I did a quick rinse, and I used the remaining shampoo in the bucket and a sponge to clean the underside of the wheel arches and wheels and the door inside (think they're called shuts) incl the boot area under the boot lid.
Then another quick rinse.

Claying
Items used:

• Bilt Hamber soft clay bar - https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00 ... UTF8&psc=1

Then, the parts that I couldn't get the black little spots/tar/tree sap off, I used a claying bar.  Using water as a lubricant ( That's one of the best things about the bilt hamber clay ), I clayed it very gently with a small amount of clay all over where I needed it. This took the longest time ever!

Glass conserver
Items used:

• Microfibre Towel
• GardX glass conserver - https://www.gardx.co.uk/?page=shop&cid=all&pid=1695

I dry off the glass everywhere with a synthetic chamois leather and apply a water repellent liquid ( ) to the side windows and back windows with a microfibre cloth. I don't apply it to the front, as I have heard it smears badly at high speeds. Note, you could also use RainX here.

Waxing
Items used:

• Microfibre Towel
• GardX conserver - https://www.gardx.co.uk/?page=shop&cid=84&pid=1835
• Collinite 476 wax - https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00 ... UTF8&psc=1

I then proceeded to rinse off the car again. I didn't bother drying the car off, as I could wet wax it with either the gardx conserver or some Collinite 476 wax.
Using a microfibre towel, I wax one panel at a time, applying with one towel, and then removing the excess with another towel.
I wax the door shuts too, cos it get mighty dirty there.

Using GardX conserver (liquid in a bucket with water) takes about 10-15 minutes to apply, whereas Collinite takes around 30-40 minutes.

Tyre Dressing
Items used:

• Meguiar's Endurance High Gloss Tyre Protection Gel  - https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00 ... UTF8&psc=1
• Tyre Applicator -  https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00 ... UTF8&psc=1

I apply Meguiar's Endurance High Gloss Tyre Protection Gel , which is quite slippery and I apply with this tool and this makes the tyres look blacker, without running down the sides.

All in all it took me about 2 and a half hours to clean the car - i am prolly taking a lot of time claying, and I haven't even started to clean the insides yet...

I have to say, after the waxing/conserver, when the car gets dirty (easily noticable with white), it's really easy to rinse off.

[graemeX5]

Hi

I enjoyed the post as it's always good to learn of new products to use when cleaning my cars

Thanks

Graeme

[MarkP80]

Thanks for the write-up, interesting to hear what you did. But pictures are what we all like to see!
I see you had a bit of trouble with clay spots. After using the Ironout, you could have used a tar remover like Tardis, which you can spray on and watch it work, similar to the way you apply the Ironout. If you want to really save a bit of cash, I have heard you can remove the stubborn tar spots by rubbing with a bit of butter or spread (honestly!)

With regard to the GardX Conserver, you've got me a bit confused! I thought this was just a top-up product for when a car has had the full GardX paint protection treatment, applied by a dealer. Has yours had this? As an aside, if it has had the proper GardX treatment then I'd be wary of claying your car, as this could degrade your expensive coating.

It was also interesting that you went for a wax on your paint. With white metallics I've tried a couple of systems and always go back to acrylic coatings. I find these tend to work better with whites, and in particular they bring out the metallic flakes. I like to use wax on darker colours, where you get better reflections.
With my Mineral White (metallic) X6 I currently use the Carlack acrylic kit.

Of course, if yours has had the full GardX treatment, then you wouldn't apply an acrylic coating on top of that, but then it shouldn't really need wax either.

I was very impressed that you did all that in two and a half hours - that would have taken me the best part of a day I reckon!

Cheers,
MarkP

[c240amg]

I think grabbing the anchor butter out and rubbing the car with it, the wife might give me funny looks )

I'll have to look out for the Tardis product - tar is a bugger to move.

You're right, that the conserver is a top up product, as I did have the GardX treatment before the car was delivered, but it still has bits of black/brown that I can't shift without claying I've only applied the wax to the lower panels as an extra layer on top of. I am hoping that it'll make it easier to shift the crap that sticks to the car.
So far, rinsing the car down after a drive in the mud is *really* easy with the wax/gardx combo. Although I have to admit it was just as good with the gardx.

The clay I was using was really soft, so I would have thought it would be ok with the gardX - I Hope!! I'll probably go for a liquid tar remover next time and see how effective it is.

Interesting to see that there's an acrylic kit, but I will probably give this a miss.

I did only wax the bottom parts of the car, hence the quick turn around in wax 

[MarkP80]

Ah, so you did have the full GardX treatment - that clarifies then.

The balck/brown bits do sound like tar, so you will probable find a tar remover does the job. There are lots of different brands, Tardis is just one, such as Gyeon Q2M Tar. You should be able to find one easily enough, but don't overuse it as you don't want to damage your GardX

[PokenH00D]

Great information, I've been looking for some tips for my X6 in individual silver pearl metallic.
I generally buy products from cleanyourcar.co.uk as they have a great detailing forum too.
I've just bought some Iron X, predominantly for the steps, as the car came to me with rusty aluminium step plates, I'm presuming from brake dust and lack of proper cleaning by the previous owner has contributed to this.
I always use the Carlack 68 glass sealer, which is particularly useful on the X6 rear windscreen.
Paintwork prep has previously always been "give it to my mate who does this for a living" then finish it myself using Carlack 68 acrylic paint sealer/uv protector.
When I'm feeling fit I wax with Harly Wax which is a 100% hard yellow carnuba wax. Great thing with this is it doesn't dust and 2 coats and the car gets a proper "wet" look for 10 or more weeks. I haven't used it on the X6 yet, but will post some pics when I do.
I've only ever used a cheap tyre dressing, so thanks for the tip