Boot has a mind of its own

thedweeb · Post by **thedweeb** » Thu Jan 27, 2011 7:19 am

Hi all,
I've what I hope will be an easy problem to fix once I know where to look,But My Boot seems to unlock its self for no real reason, stationary or on the move, I can sometime replicate it by switching on the head lights?! Anyone have any ideas as its driving me mad?

Many thanks in advance

The Dweeb

marlin758 · Post by **marlin758** » Thu Jan 27, 2011 8:57 am

Interesting ! My 55 plate 3.0D has just started doing this too .

I had driven 80 miles and parked up waiting for my son when without me doing anything the boot did a whir and a click and unlocked itself.

I got out and opened it , checked for obstructions and closed it. Got back in the car and it waited a minute or two and did it again 2 or 3 times! I closed it and it stayed shut until I pulled onto my drive when it unlocked itself again.

Anyone any ideas ?

ITBarbie · Post by **ITBarbie** » Thu Jan 27, 2011 9:30 am

Hi

I have heard of this before although I'm glad to say not happened to me yet.

There are quite a few people saying that it may be a simple as wires touching but needs investigation. Obviously there may be corrosion causing this. We've had such cold weather with ice and snow and it gets in the joints and seals and expands. The weather gets warmer, the ice melts and the seals are never the same causing condensation build up.

There is a thread here on it
http://www.xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-forums/ ... s-own.html

http://www.bmwland.co.uk/forums/viewtop ... 4&t=116137

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

pvr · Post by **pvr** » Thu Jan 27, 2011 10:10 am

Good info Penny.

Never heard of this one before ...

bullethead · Post by **bullethead** » Thu Jan 27, 2011 4:23 pm

Mine did exactly the same thing, nightmare when it was wet out. Until I replaced the whole handle for the MOT cos of a duff number plate light.
Doesn't do it anymore

And for info Â£91 unpainted and you need to order the rubber seal seperately about another Â£4 but buy 2 cos they aint long enough.

thedweeb · Post by **thedweeb** » Thu Jan 27, 2011 6:25 pm

Thanks all as always. I will take alook at the weekend.
Cheers
Dweeb

paulmb · Post by **paulmb** » Thu Jan 27, 2011 6:30 pm

I had this recently on my 52 3.0D.
I removed the boot handle/ switch assembly to find it very wet in there. Dried it out then refitted using clear silicon, instead of the new rubber seal. No probs so far.

swipe · Post by **swipe** » Thu Jan 27, 2011 6:55 pm

Got the same sort of problem with my E39 528i touring, with this I know its the wiring loom that has split due to it being in the hinge. So as each time you open the tailgate it pulls the wiring and eventually breaks the wires.
It maybe the same with X5 not sure but at least you have a few places to start looking, by the way BMW wanted to charge me Â£357+ VAT for the loom and it had to come from germany.
Ended up paying Â£10 inc delivery from another forum member who was breaking his E39

storminmike · Post by **storminmike** » Thu Jan 27, 2011 7:50 pm

[quote=""paulmb""]I had this recently on my 52 3.0D.
I removed the boot handle/ switch assembly to find it very wet in there. Dried it out then refitted using clear silicon, instead of the new rubber seal. No probs so far.[/quote]

a friend of ours has an x 5 and they think water is getting into thee tailgate too..wrecking the lights

Is the tailgate a common leak like a sieve area leading to dodgy wiring issues and corrosion?

AW8 · Post by **AW8** » Thu Jan 27, 2011 8:32 pm

Had issues with mine a good while ago, had tailgate catch replaced under warranty then they advised a whole new unit (I can confirm this includes getting new handle that needs painting),they also advised all new rubber surround forrear of entire tailgate.

I declined to authorise their costly recommendation, removed the swith assembly, cleaned all surfaces and seals, dried out same thoroughly and refitted whilst also using plenty of silicone including around the connector to make electrics more watertight. I also adjusted the bump stops .....Since then no problems.

To reduce knock noise I have since caused car to have upper catch replaced as it comes with rubber pads which are prone to getting displaced.

I haven't opened links above but I seem to recall someone stripped their handle assembly by carefully cutting the rubber, then cleaned the contact strip & removed a microswitch or switches ( cant recall if 1 or 2 present, from strip before soldering on new item(s), then re-sealed the rubber & refixed possibly sealing around the connector & areas likely to suffer ingress. Iirc you can get similar sized switches from Maplins.

Bad design lacking adequate water sealing, vulnerable to water ingress from water run off from glass and thrown upwards from rear too.

HTH

marlin758 · Post by **marlin758** » Fri Jan 28, 2011 6:24 am

Thanks for the info guys and the links Penny .

It looks like it is the handle on mine as it now sometimes refuses to unlatch when I press the release button .

It works fine off the release button on the key .

Another job for the weekend

phiggystardust · Post by **phiggystardust** » Fri Jan 28, 2011 8:25 pm

hi
mine was exactly the same wouldnt open then it would (with the release handle on the tailgate) . opened it up and was full of water ! replaced with a second hander and now no problems, so would say its that

paulbryson75 · Post by **paulbryson75** » Sat Jan 29, 2011 7:47 am

currently can open mine only using the key fob - took off handle assembly, tried to dry out - then replaced. Still the same am afraid - am on look out for 2nd hand bit.
Paul

AW8 · Post by **AW8** » Sat Jan 29, 2011 11:27 am

[quote=""marlin758""]...Another job for the weekend

[/quote]

If giving cleaning up, drying out & watersealing a go make sure you have fan heater or hairdyer to hand plus some silicon.

No point taking a knife to the seal unless you have what's required to rebuild the switch & rebond then seal & refit.

marlin758 · Post by **marlin758** » Tue Feb 01, 2011 7:11 am

The plot so far - I first tried removing the number plate lenses and just drying it out over a radiator but without success.

My next thought was to buy a second hand one but was a bit dubious because they may already be suffering water ingress, but it didn't matter because I couldn't find one anywhere in the country.

I priced a new one at my local dealer - approx Â£110 unpainted and Â£170 painted.

So I decided to cut it open with the option to buy a new one if I messed it up !

Once open ( not the easiest job ) I could see a small amount of water damage but it was only slight bubbling of the protective varnish on the circuit board in one spot and I can't see that causing the problem .

However one of the switches wasn't functioning at all and the other was very intermittent in operation. Whilst testing I think that whilst moving the board about one of the switches went momentarily short circuit so I asume that it has collapsed inside . This wasn't easy to reproduce using a digital meter .

I have ordered 2 new switches from Maplin - Part number KR89W tactile switch 105A looks the nearest if anyone else fancies a go .

I have also ordered silicone grease to coat everything before I reassemble the unit and have a bumper repair kit which is a 2 part plastic paste , used it recently to repair a split in the bumper on my son's car and it looks like the stuff that was used to glue the thing together in the first place . So hopefully I will end up with a serviceable , waterproof boot handle at a cost of Â£5-6.

To be continued ............

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