Re: New calipers (more help needed please)

[Dan1502]

Whilst changing from winter to summer wheels today I thought I might as well do the front discs and pads at the same time (I'd had the parts for a while but the indicator was yet to come on).

Anyway I discovered the drivers side were very low, particulary the inner pad.  For some reason the passenger side wasn't as bad.

I had a hell of a job retracting the driver's side caliper and I could see some flakey rust extending behind the seal.  I used a retracting tool and had to use a 1/2 inch ratchet to turn it.  The other side retracted much more easily and was cleaner.  I suspect the driver's side if not seized completely is to some extent.

Having fitted the discs and pads I went for a short drive and whilst both sides were hot the driver's side was hotter.

So I'm thinking should I buy a new caliper?  Should both be replaced?

I've had a look on Euro Car Parts and there are two Pagid calipers listed which seem to be the same in the fitment details but one is £75.99 and the other £107.99.  Which do I need (08/2004 E53 3.0D)?

Given that I've had everything off and cleaned and greased everything it should be an easy job to replace them but what is the process for bleeding them and how easy is it?  I'm tempted to buy the parts and take it to a decent garage around the corner to be honest as having spent all day on the brakes and the previous couple of days working on our mini I've had enough really.

Thanks guys.

[X5Sport]

If memory serves there are two sizes.  The V8 engines, and especially the 4.6/4.8 have larger brake discs so need different callipers.  I can't check their new site as it doesn't correctly support mobile devices!

If/when you do change them, make sure you clamp the brake lines off.  If air gets anywhere near the ABS modulator (it shouldn't as long as the reservoir is sealed with something like cling film and recapped if you have a correct size lid, or use rubber bands if not) then you need specialist software to bleed it properly.  If you clamp the bottom end to prevent flow as well then you won't have any trouble 

[Dan1502]

Thanks.  It's the bleeding that concerns me.  Am I best changing both calipers?

Also, if I do what you say with the cling film and I have some plastic clamps I used for fuel lines, what about bleeding the new calipers?

[X5Sport]

Personally I would change both, but that's just me.

As far as bleeding is concerned, once everything is attached, make sure the reservoir is full and let the clamp off one at a time and let it flow.  It's air at the top you need to avoid, which won't happen if you keep the reservoir full. 

I use an Eezi-Bleed on mine with the spare tyre as the pressure source.  You can use any spare you like but the pressure MUST be reduced to less than 20psi to avoid any damage to the brake system.  Did the E46 recently and had no trouble at all 

[Dan1502]

So seal off with cling film to prevent flow (like putting thumb on a straw) and clamp at other end.  Attach caliper then bleed using gravity but making sure don't let reservoir get low (or use pressure bleeder like eezi bleed).

I it's a job I should be able to do really but not having a garage and working on the street it is a hassle getting all the tools out etc.  I've sent eurocarparts a message as they have a sale on and the mbclub code or the bank holiday codes mean the pagid calipers are pretty cheap at the moment.  I just don't know which ones I need.

[Dan1502]

I'm assuming a seized or sticky caliper won't be covered by the insured warranty?

[X5Sport]

If not using an Eezi-bleed (or similar) then use the traditional up/down pedal method as this should be fine.

I doubt if a calliper is covered, but it never hurts to ask    It will depend upon whether or not they are seen as a wear & tear item.

[Dan1502]

Thanks.  The calipers are not covered if the fault is due to corrosion and they have to take photographs as evidence.  She said they wouldn't know until they stripped them down.  When I said I already have she laughed.  I cross checked the bmw part numbers with ECP and they confirmed it is the cheaper parts I need which with current offers and codes work out about £60 each for Pagid.  I've ordered an eezi bleed as it seems to get good reviews.

That's next Saturday sorted!  Thanks again.

[X5Sport]

Just remember the 20psi or less pressure feed.  If you have not already got a brake bleed nipple/pipe spanner then it will be worth adding one to your shopping list.

Sounds like you are sorted 

[Dan1502]

I picked up the calipers and other bits today.  For reference the bleed nipple is 11mm.  I'm not sure about the hose.  I tried measuring it with the wheel on and think it's 14mm or 15mm so I bought both sizes of flare nut spanner.  Also I'm not sure whether a copper crush washer is required so I bought some just in case; I can't see one on the parts diagram but don't want to find I need them and not have them to hand.

[chubbs]

Not wishing to be frivolous, but I prefered it when the title said 'caplipers'. I'm going to start a campaign - Bring Back The Caplipers.

[Dan1502]

It took me a while to spot.  Today I shall be changing my caplipers (no wonder BMW said their warranty doesn't cover them).

[Dan1502]

So I've just changed them but I have a problem.

I did one at a time.  Clamped the hose, removed and replaced the caliper, connected the bleed kit and pressurised it then bled the brake until I could see no bubbles.  I did this each side and the pedal felt very hard with the engine off.  So I switched the engine on initially the pedal travel was quite long then to the top when pressed again but with a lot of pressure it can be pushed all the way.  I presume this is air in the system.

Is it worth me trying to sort this or will I have to take it somewhere where they can pressure bleed it and open the valves etc with a bmw system?

[Dan1502]

I bled them again.  This time I had trouble getting the eezi bleed to seal at the reservoir so lost quite a bit of fluid.  Eventually I got it to seal.  I then bled the calipers again with a comination of the eezi bleed and a peddle press.  No bubbles apart from a couple in one caliper to start.  The peddle is the same though.  I did worry about a leaky master cylinder but I cleaned up all the fluid that leaked and there didn't seem to be any more after that.  I then went for a short drive (carefully) and the brakes are powerful enough to lock the wheels so it's safe to drive to a garage.  The fluid level has remained constant so no leaks.

I'm wondering whether when I forced the pistons of the old corroded calipers back then left it a week before fitting the new ones some air might have got into the system.  Who knows but I suspect a proper bleed is needed using the diagnostic system to open the valves (a shame carly can't do this).

I'm wondering whether to take it to an indy or just go to my usual bmw dealer or perhaps another and get the £91 value line brake fluid change as presumably if they must bleed the system properly when doing that?

[Dan1502]

I've booked it in to the dealers.  Apparently the standard bleed is just a normal pressure bleed (albeit using an expensive machine) without hooking it up to the computer.  If that is required it is one hour labour (though he did say this would be £85 due to it being an older car).  He also said he'd never known a master cylinder to fail in the time he'd been working on them.  He reckons bleeding it on their system might sort it but otherwise they'll do the full procedure.

As an aside, I was disappointed again by the attitude of the lady I spoke to initially.  Gettting to speak to someone with technical knowledge before booking in is like getting blood out of stone and the tone of voice is out of order, winds me up and is totally unncessary.