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Rear camber
Rear camber
I measured the rear camber on the car today. Nearside rear shows 2.06 deg but the offside rear reads 4.63deg. Looking at it from the rear its is obvious.
The adusting bolts look very rusty- is it worth me trying to alter it or could it be bushes somewhere? I have jacked the rear up under the lower suspension arm and couldnt detect any looseness in the wheel. I have no bangs from the rear other than a rattly brake pad. What is the best course of action from here?
Any advise/ tips welcome.
The adusting bolts look very rusty- is it worth me trying to alter it or could it be bushes somewhere? I have jacked the rear up under the lower suspension arm and couldnt detect any looseness in the wheel. I have no bangs from the rear other than a rattly brake pad. What is the best course of action from here?
Any advise/ tips welcome.
Re: Rear camber
You need to do the two outer bushing mate one is a solid round bush other is the plate with a tube coming off major difference then have 4 wheel alignment done
X5 e53 3.0d 53 plate and Honda vtr1000 fun time
Re: Rear camber
[quote="themoog"]
I measured the rear camber on the car today. Nearside rear shows 2.06 deg but the offside rear reads 4.63deg. Looking at it from the rear its is obvious.
The adusting bolts look very rusty- is it worth me trying to alter it or could it be bushes somewhere? I have jacked the rear up under the lower suspension arm and couldnt detect any looseness in the wheel. I have no bangs from the rear other than a rattly brake pad. What is the best course of action from here?
Any advise/ tips welcome.
[/quote]
You wont feel any play in the rear balljoint bush by just jacking the car up. You will have to deflate the airbag with the car jacked up (not on bottom arm though) and then any play will become apparent. It is usually the lower balljoint/rose bush. They are relatively inexpensive and straight forward to do, but a special removal tool is required.
It may be more cost effective in the long run however to buy a complete rear bush kit, just make sure you purchase a quality brand like Lemforder, there are others, have a search on here.
To deflate the airbag simply remove the hose (cant remember there may be a clip securing it) from inside the boot as it goes into the top of the airbag. To re-inflate simply re-attach hose and car with automatically re-inflate the bag.
I measured the rear camber on the car today. Nearside rear shows 2.06 deg but the offside rear reads 4.63deg. Looking at it from the rear its is obvious.
The adusting bolts look very rusty- is it worth me trying to alter it or could it be bushes somewhere? I have jacked the rear up under the lower suspension arm and couldnt detect any looseness in the wheel. I have no bangs from the rear other than a rattly brake pad. What is the best course of action from here?
Any advise/ tips welcome.
[/quote]
You wont feel any play in the rear balljoint bush by just jacking the car up. You will have to deflate the airbag with the car jacked up (not on bottom arm though) and then any play will become apparent. It is usually the lower balljoint/rose bush. They are relatively inexpensive and straight forward to do, but a special removal tool is required.
It may be more cost effective in the long run however to buy a complete rear bush kit, just make sure you purchase a quality brand like Lemforder, there are others, have a search on here.
To deflate the airbag simply remove the hose (cant remember there may be a clip securing it) from inside the boot as it goes into the top of the airbag. To re-inflate simply re-attach hose and car with automatically re-inflate the bag.
X5 40d
Re: Rear camber
Well I was putting new brake pads on the back today and I noticed that the top camber/toe adjuster nut looked odd. It was loose.. I twisted it round to where I think it should have been (which would reduce camber) and tightened it up. Haven't measured it yet though
Re: Rear camber
I 'think' the top bolt is for toe not camber. The reason being, I have had to replace both subframe and rose/ball joints for the same reason. While getting to grips with it I found a BMW manual on the web (somewhere... no idea were now) that said something like
'because you cant change camber without changing toe, when adjusting the rear wheels, adjust the camber first (picture of lower bolt) then the toe (picture of upper bolt). (Incidentally, I think this is the reason for the endless arguments on the internet about camber does / doesn't cause excess tyre wear.. it may not, but unintentional camber will change the toe which with rip your inner tyre to shreds...quickly!).
For info (Im sure you've read all of this already) the rear camber goes for one or both of 2 reasons,
(i) rear subframe bushes go, causing the suspension parts to sag, which seems to pull the upper tyre in. (in my case, relatively easy to fix, but you need a special tool)
(ii) the rose bush / ball joints (same thing) wear which pushes the lower part of the wheel out In my case a complete PITA which required a special tool... and a hack saw ... and a freezer ... and some silicone lube.. and a day and a half...
If any of this is arse about face, Im happy to be corrected, Im no mechanic, just been where you are and offering the titbits I picked up!
Cheers
'because you cant change camber without changing toe, when adjusting the rear wheels, adjust the camber first (picture of lower bolt) then the toe (picture of upper bolt). (Incidentally, I think this is the reason for the endless arguments on the internet about camber does / doesn't cause excess tyre wear.. it may not, but unintentional camber will change the toe which with rip your inner tyre to shreds...quickly!).
For info (Im sure you've read all of this already) the rear camber goes for one or both of 2 reasons,
(i) rear subframe bushes go, causing the suspension parts to sag, which seems to pull the upper tyre in. (in my case, relatively easy to fix, but you need a special tool)
(ii) the rose bush / ball joints (same thing) wear which pushes the lower part of the wheel out In my case a complete PITA which required a special tool... and a hack saw ... and a freezer ... and some silicone lube.. and a day and a half...
If any of this is arse about face, Im happy to be corrected, Im no mechanic, just been where you are and offering the titbits I picked up!
Cheers
Re: Rear camber
Have the same problem with the rear camber :'(
Anyone can post some links to the required bushes that need changing please?
Anyone can post some links to the required bushes that need changing please?
Re: Rear camber
Ball joint (needs special tool ) 33326767748 (BMW part no)
integral link 33326770749
from experience i'd suggest getting either first-line or febi parts as they seem to have less problems ( i used fai ones ant both needed replacing twice before i changed to first-line)
you will definitely need the tool for the ball joint (i know its more like a rose bush but BMW call it a ball joint)
integral link 33326770749
from experience i'd suggest getting either first-line or febi parts as they seem to have less problems ( i used fai ones ant both needed replacing twice before i changed to first-line)
you will definitely need the tool for the ball joint (i know its more like a rose bush but BMW call it a ball joint)
X5 e53 3.0 2002 with LPG
Re: Rear camber
How about this kit, should cover everything important on the rear?
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/121869623730
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/121869623730
Re: Rear camber
Bottom 2 near the wheel are most important for camber but I agree fit that full kit
X5 e53 3.0d 53 plate and Honda vtr1000 fun time