Swallow neck or flange type towbar?

[Gulkolx5]

Hi Guys

Having looked at available towbars  I am swaying towards a Westfalia remove able tow bar for my 30d SE. I would be interested in others opinion as I have always had witter towbars on previous tugs and never had reliability problems. Also can anyone confirm that the cuts to bumper are none visible with Wesfalia?

The second issue for me with towing will be not having a spare whilst towing, Is the consensus to get a spare in case of problems or are members happy to carry on with run flats and rely on recovery services.

Had the X5 for two months now with no problems and after RRS 2007 HSE the reliability so far is great, and it pulls so much better as well.

Steve

[gmc15]

The detachable swan neck towbars are much better thal the fixed flange as when you are not towing you can remove them so the back of the car looks 'normal'. Westfalia needs a bumper cut but it is underneath so cant be seen. Electrics tuck up behind the bumper as well.
I have the same dilemma with towing and no spare. You either get a spare or rely on the runflats to get you to a garage. I still don't know what to do

[Reusch]

I think shadrack as one for sale ?

[Horizon]

[quote="Reusch"]
I think shadrack as one for sale ?
[/quote]

http://xdrivers.co.uk/forum/index.php/t ... 910.0.html

[X5Sport]

Westphalia are the factory ones.  PF Jones offer all types, plus fitting instructions can be viewed on their website, so you can gave a look at the work before buying.

They also offer the dedicated electrics kits too - and instructions 

I've used them on several cars and I like the Westphalia types as said above, completely invisible when not in use.

[Graeme]

Mine is a Westphalia swan neck detachable. When it's off and the 13pin socket swung up behind the bumper nothing is visible.  Just a couple of cautionary notes though - first, always keep the male part of the bar well greased - there are some ball bearings in it that move to lock the bar in place which must be free, so I always store the head in a plastic bag before putting it in its holder in the boot.  Secondly, keep the socket greased and especially the V slots either side as any rust will stop the head pushing fully home - it is exposed to the elements when the head is not fitted and rusts quickly if not greased.

I use run flats and as the car is a 7 seater there's no room for a spare.  I carry a small tyre compressor and couple of cans of Holt's tyre seal  though just in case - the plan being to remove any nail or screw that gets in, use the tyre seal and blow the tyre back up to tow to a tyre fitter.  I don't fancy towing with a deflated run flat trying to cope with the extra load on the rear.  Touch wood I've never used them in 7 years.

[X5Sport]

New bars should be supplied with a plastic filler plug for use with the socket when the swan-neck isn't fitted.  Don't lose it and it will keep everything clean. 

I do the same as Graeme and keep the male part wrapped in a small plastic bag to keep its parts clean and greasy.  It also keeps grease off the car.

[Gulkolx5]

Thanks for the replies, very useful. I am set now on the Westfalia detachable, and will definitely keep itgreased as suggested.
It also seems sensible to keep a compressor and holts on hand especially as like Graeme I would feel a little uncomfortable towing a double axle ran on a flat runflat. Fingers crossed for no more blow outs. We suffered one on A38 last summer which was last straw with the last RRS.
Steve

[X5Sport]

Can't help with what the best 'goo' might be as I used to use Puncturesafe which you leave in the tyre all the time.  Saved accidents when on the motorbike when loss of either tyre could be disastrous. 

It's not as easy to find as it used to be and you have to calculate the number of units to out in each tyre.  It's basically a water/rubber solution that sets when exposed to air such as in a puncture and can fix holes up to 1/4".  If you do go down this route then it is easy to use (you do need a jack though) as all you do is jack the car up, deflate and remove the valve insert, squirt the right number of units into the tyre, replace the valve insert and re-inflate the tyre.  Then go for a 20 min drive to spread the stuff around the inside of the tyre and forget about it.

Being water based, in the event of a repair it just wipes away from the site and a patch can be applied as usual.

If you go the 'goo' route then what probably is worth checking is what the largest tyre a can can cope with.  Might be important with larger, wider tyres such as our beasts have!

[gmc15]

My local tyre place recommended Holts tyre seal for non runflats. He said it is easily washed out of the inside of the tyre and then the tyre can be repaired.
Holts stuff comes in different size cans and I think a 500ml can is needed for 18 - 20" wheels.

One thing to note about the detachable Westfalia bar is that there is no place to attach a breakaway cable, so it has to be wrapped around the bar - not recommended by some organisations as being the best way to have it.

[shadrack]

My tobar is sold anyway, mine was a detachable flange type so best of both worlds, electrics 13 pin on mine also swing up behind bumper

[X5Sport]

[quote="gmc15"]
One thing to note about the detachable Westfalia bar is that there is no place to attach a breakaway cable, so it has to be wrapped around the bar - not recommended by some organisations as being the best way to have it.
[/quote]

I raised that very point with Westphalia and they had no good answer either.  One 'suggestion' was to try to feed a stainless steel cable that was stronger than the breakaway one around the main bracket and have it in a loop to clip the breakaway onto.  There is certainly nowhere obvious on my X6 to hook to underneath.