Car Won't Start After Battery Change, Now in "Trans Fail Safe" ; 4.4 E53

[redzed]

Sorry; posted this in the E53 "General" area at first.

My E53 4.4 has been sat on the drive for a couple of months whilst I had it on ramps changing all the suspension bushes and bearings etc slow time.
The battery wasn't the best and had died during the time the car had not been in use.

Jobs all completed and I fitted a new battery in the boot as the other one had died completely. The dash was lit up like a Christmas tree and the car will not start using the key.

I have managed to start it by placing a positive supply direct to the trigger terminal on the starter motor solenoid (not the two large terminals) and she fires up fine. However, when I drove round the block, the car is in "Trans Failsafe Mode", the gears shift up and down like they should but it only shows the PNDR light and there is no difference in Sport mode.

Battery voltage was 12.4V before starting and whilst running, was reading 14V.

During a basic generic scan, the following codes are registered;
P0709 - Transmission Range Sensor Circuit Intermittent.
P0020 - Intake Camshaft Position Actuator Circuit / Open Bank 2

I have cleared the faults down and the dash warning lights are no longer illuminated, but the car still won't turn over and there doesn't seem to be a clunk from the starter solenoid energising.

I have restarted the car after clearing the fault codes, but I am still getting the Trans Fail Safe message, and the following lights have returned; battery light is on along with the DSC, ABS, Airdag and Amber Brake warning lights.

Prior to the car being laid up for months, I had never had any issues what so ever starting it, although the battery would drain if not used for 3/4 weeks.

Any help will be greatly appreciated as I'm going out of my mind.

[Steamyrotter]

Seems like a cop out question but have you disconnected the battery again since resetting everything and starting it?

Sometimes some modules will not communicate properly when battery allowed to drain like it did.
They may need a 'reboot'.

If nothing else it is a free thing to try...!

[paddythemac]

I recently had battery problems (amongst others) and you could try turning the steering wheel full lock to full lock a couple of times after starting the car, that should reset all the dash lights & trans failsafe warnings etc, assuming there are no related problems of course.

Re the key not turning the engine over; does the starter crank/click or do you just get nothing when you turn the key?

If nothing happens and you haven't used the key for while it could be the problem.. I've been told that if you don't use it for a period of time, the key's internal battery goes and as it's coded to the ECU, you may have get a new one coded by BMW (about £120) as you can't easily replace the battery.

The starter motor on mine failed without warning, so its possible for that to happen. Check for threads on here about testing your starter motor, as I've not done that bit, mine failed with a bang..

Good luck, hope some of this is of use.

[redzed]

Thanks paddythemac,

There's no clunk or click down at the starter motor/solenoid.
I've left it a couple of days due to work/weather/frustration getting in the way.

One of the other forum members has said that if it's a key issue, the starter would still crank, but the car would not fire up.

I'll give the steering full travel, as well as disconnecting the battery once more and I've also been advised that disconnecting the ignition barrel sometimes fixes starting issues; I'll give most things a try at least once 

[paddythemac]

It may be the starter motor itself then? As i said, mine failed without warning, so it could be the issue. There a few threads on here about testing it if you have a meter, I've not done that. Mine exploded (mechanically), so I had no problem identifying the fault.. :-[ Most factors do an exchange deal now, for my E53 3.0d, price was around £120 for a new one.

Good luck - I share your pain, having replaced inlet manifold & related bits, turbo, battery and starter motor over the last couple of months..

[redzed]

Thanks,

MMMMMMMMM, the enjoyment of X5 ownership  :'(

[redzed]

Brand new Febi ignition switch fitted with great anticipation ...........
Still nothing 

Is there a starter relay on the 4.4 E53 ??

Just trying the easier less expensive alternatives before attacking the starter motor. Can't understand why it would be the starter though, as it starts with a 12V supply onto the trigger connector post.

[paddythemac]

Sorry you're still having problems and its probably gone past me now, as I'm not so good with the electricals. The only other thing I remember doing is turning the engine by hand, daft as it sounds, but bear with me as it worked..

When we first fitted the new starter it refused to turn over and we found on hand cranking it that the engine was very stiff, almost locked, so (after sh*tting it thinking the engine had somehow seized) we moved it slowly, with a bar directly (and carefully) to the flywheel, until it felt a bit looser.  I'm not sure what the problem was, but the car started first time after that and has been ok since. It might be worth trying that, it won't do any harm and it's free...

[redzed]

That's the confusing thing with the whole scenario. The engine starts fine if I put 12V direct to the starter and hence why I was hoping that it's a power supply issue from the ignition switch; which others on the forum have seemed to suffer from.
Bloody X5s  >:(

[paddythemac]

I know what you mean, they're hard to love at times.. it does seem then like an electrical problem, tho.. The obvious thing would be to check connections, specially earths around the starter working backwards. Other than that, there is a starter relay, I'm not sure where but try under the bonnet on the drivers side, if you've done everything else it could be that..

[VanHaydn]

I just picked up a second hand X5 had a few issues one bing it would not operate the central locking off the fob the interia central locking buton di dnot work either, heaters also decided their own temperatures even after setting them, fix was drive car to BMW repair shop, reset ECU as it was in " TRANSPORT MODE" for some strange reason after it came back from a MOT and from bush change on swingarms and now it all works fine again best 55 quid i ever spent

[Steamyrotter]

Re-reading that it sounds like the key and EWS are not matching correctly...
EWS is the immobiliser side that links to the rotating code in the key

You may need to force them to match which i think is something you can do with the appropriate diagnostic equipment....

Have read elsewhere of the EWS transponders failing, and modules not responding.

[Micevo]

Hello

i know this is an old post and dont know if youve got it sorted but have you tried the inhibitor switch? its on the side of gearbox, if you google  will give you all the info, it brings BMW fault code 60,

Hope this helps

Cheers