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Door Handle Fix (E53)
-
- Newbie
- Posts: 7
- Joined: Fri Nov 30, 2012 3:58 pm
Re: Door Handle Fix (E53)
Hi Guys. Also suffering here (6 hours and counting trying to replace the carrier). I managed to do it, or so I thought, (getting the allen screw lined up was a real pig) however when testing the lock it appears that the tension of the cable isnt sufficient enough to open the door.
On the cable the plastic sleeve has two notches. I clipped it in using the top notch pretty easily with a bit of pressure but the cable is too slack. I've therefore tried clipping it in on the second notch and havent been able to do it. I looked at the notch after around 30 minutes of trying and can see that the sleeve is actually fatter at that point, which is the reason why i'm struggling.
The car has been in an unusable state now for a full week and it's driving me crazy. Any ideas on how I can retain the tension and will it be taut enough if I do get it in the second notch (i'll have a go at filing it a bit). If anyone has had the same problem I'd be interested to hear how they resolved it.
BTW I am using an after market part rather than BMW original one, not that it should matter too much.
On the cable the plastic sleeve has two notches. I clipped it in using the top notch pretty easily with a bit of pressure but the cable is too slack. I've therefore tried clipping it in on the second notch and havent been able to do it. I looked at the notch after around 30 minutes of trying and can see that the sleeve is actually fatter at that point, which is the reason why i'm struggling.
The car has been in an unusable state now for a full week and it's driving me crazy. Any ideas on how I can retain the tension and will it be taut enough if I do get it in the second notch (i'll have a go at filing it a bit). If anyone has had the same problem I'd be interested to hear how they resolved it.
BTW I am using an after market part rather than BMW original one, not that it should matter too much.
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- Newbie
- Posts: 7
- Joined: Fri Nov 30, 2012 3:58 pm
Re: Door Handle Fix (E53)
Picture marked up so people can see what i'm referring to.
Re: Door Handle Fix (E53)
That's exactly what happened to mine! I thought if I could clip it so it was that bit higher it will work the latch! Nope! Still didn't work!
It is weird because you lift the section on the latch the cable fixes to it work but when connected up it doesn't!
I had to replace the latch in the end. >:(
It is weird because you lift the section on the latch the cable fixes to it work but when connected up it doesn't!
I had to replace the latch in the end. >:(
CURRENT CARS - E53 X5 3.0d & E30 325I CONVERTIBLE
Re: Door Handle Fix (E53)
Just went again. Going to be buying a better one this time.
[quote="JF1980"]
Drivers handle went in the week. Broken in exactly the same place as the one at the start of this thread. Replaced with cheap ebay carrier. Not quite perfect (.25mm gap between the front rubber and handle) but did the job. Given the car will probably be replaced within the next 12 months it wasn't worth paying 3x more for an official part.
Try not to bend the wire connecting the lock mechanism to the lock knob while taking the old carrier out and getting the new one in otherwise the knob won't fully pop back down when you lock the car. Learned this the hard way and had to take the door card off again to correct it.
[/quote]
[quote="JF1980"]
Drivers handle went in the week. Broken in exactly the same place as the one at the start of this thread. Replaced with cheap ebay carrier. Not quite perfect (.25mm gap between the front rubber and handle) but did the job. Given the car will probably be replaced within the next 12 months it wasn't worth paying 3x more for an official part.
Try not to bend the wire connecting the lock mechanism to the lock knob while taking the old carrier out and getting the new one in otherwise the knob won't fully pop back down when you lock the car. Learned this the hard way and had to take the door card off again to correct it.
[/quote]
Current: 2012 E70 x40D Sport
Previous: 2004 E53 3.0D Sport
Previous: 2004 E53 3.0D Sport
Re: Door Handle Fix (E53)
[quote="JF1980"]
Just went again. Going to be buying a better one this time.
[quote="JF1980"]
Drivers handle went in the week. Broken in exactly the same place as the one at the start of this thread. Replaced with cheap ebay carrier. Not quite perfect (.25mm gap between the front rubber and handle) but did the job. Given the car will probably be replaced within the next 12 months it wasn't worth paying 3x more for an official part.
Try not to bend the wire connecting the lock mechanism to the lock knob while taking the old carrier out and getting the new one in otherwise the knob won't fully pop back down when you lock the car. Learned this the hard way and had to take the door card off again to correct it.
[/quote]
[/quote]
Just replaced my drivers door handle carrier with a febi one, fits fine and £55 pound cheaper than a oem one .
Just went again. Going to be buying a better one this time.
[quote="JF1980"]
Drivers handle went in the week. Broken in exactly the same place as the one at the start of this thread. Replaced with cheap ebay carrier. Not quite perfect (.25mm gap between the front rubber and handle) but did the job. Given the car will probably be replaced within the next 12 months it wasn't worth paying 3x more for an official part.
Try not to bend the wire connecting the lock mechanism to the lock knob while taking the old carrier out and getting the new one in otherwise the knob won't fully pop back down when you lock the car. Learned this the hard way and had to take the door card off again to correct it.
[/quote]
[/quote]
Just replaced my drivers door handle carrier with a febi one, fits fine and £55 pound cheaper than a oem one .
Re: Door Handle Fix (E53)
In the past 6 months I've had work done to both my front doors (wouldn't open from the inside or the outside, some brutal work getting the card off with the door closed apparently :blink:).
The most recent issue (the front passenger door) has left the airbag warning light on. My indy is at a loss how to fix this. He says he's ordered a 'loom fix kit' from the main dealer but apparently they've twice sent the wrong part. Then he tells me he's metered everything out and can't understand why the airbag light is still on.
I'm a bit concerned the airbag itself is now faulty, would this be expensive to replace?
I'm also a bit unsure as to what would be fair money to pay him to fix this - is it possible he caused the problem initially?
Anyone any ideas on what the fix for this could be?
Thanks,
W.
The most recent issue (the front passenger door) has left the airbag warning light on. My indy is at a loss how to fix this. He says he's ordered a 'loom fix kit' from the main dealer but apparently they've twice sent the wrong part. Then he tells me he's metered everything out and can't understand why the airbag light is still on.
I'm a bit concerned the airbag itself is now faulty, would this be expensive to replace?
I'm also a bit unsure as to what would be fair money to pay him to fix this - is it possible he caused the problem initially?
Anyone any ideas on what the fix for this could be?
Thanks,
W.
Curr. - Silverstone II F85
Prev. - E70 4.0D M Sport
E53 3.0D Sport Facelift - Estoril Blue
Prev. - E70 4.0D M Sport
E53 3.0D Sport Facelift - Estoril Blue
- briankerrys47
- Member
- Posts: 315
- Joined: Mon Dec 03, 2012 1:55 pm
- Location: East of Manchester
Re: Door Handle Fix (E53)
[quote="Waka"]
In the past 6 months I've had work done to both my front doors (wouldn't open from the inside or the outside, some brutal work getting the card off with the door closed apparently :blink:).
The most recent issue (the front passenger door) has left the airbag warning light on. My indy is at a loss how to fix this. He says he's ordered a 'loom fix kit' from the main dealer but apparently they've twice sent the wrong part. Then he tells me he's metered everything out and can't understand why the airbag light is still on.
I'm a bit concerned the airbag itself is now faulty, would this be expensive to replace?
I'm also a bit unsure as to what would be fair money to pay him to fix this - is it possible he caused the problem initially?
Anyone any ideas on what the fix for this could be?
Thanks,
W.
[/quote]funny you should mention that mine came on Saturday by Sunday dissapeared ????over the last 6years it has appeared once or twice I just black (tape) over it,then it just dissapeared.You could try the old battery reset thingy disconnect wait 20 min or so reconnect and wait ???
In the past 6 months I've had work done to both my front doors (wouldn't open from the inside or the outside, some brutal work getting the card off with the door closed apparently :blink:).
The most recent issue (the front passenger door) has left the airbag warning light on. My indy is at a loss how to fix this. He says he's ordered a 'loom fix kit' from the main dealer but apparently they've twice sent the wrong part. Then he tells me he's metered everything out and can't understand why the airbag light is still on.
I'm a bit concerned the airbag itself is now faulty, would this be expensive to replace?
I'm also a bit unsure as to what would be fair money to pay him to fix this - is it possible he caused the problem initially?
Anyone any ideas on what the fix for this could be?
Thanks,
W.
[/quote]funny you should mention that mine came on Saturday by Sunday dissapeared ????over the last 6years it has appeared once or twice I just black (tape) over it,then it just dissapeared.You could try the old battery reset thingy disconnect wait 20 min or so reconnect and wait ???
-
- Newbie
- Posts: 10
- Joined: Fri Feb 27, 2015 10:25 am
- Location: Cardiff
Re: Door Handle Fix (E53)
Thanks Sanj for the instructions, just had this very problem so this has made my life much easier!
2004 E53 X5 4.8is Imola Red
Re: Door Handle Fix (E53)
Welcome!
Scn Protect,Alarm Chirp,Ashtray del,Sub install,IV2,Screens,PS2 Media,Chrome rings,Schnitzer pedals,Reverse cam,Silver Grills,F/mirrors,Comp Spkrs,Heated S/W,20"168s,Splash scn,Arches,Remap,LED Tails,ACS Spoiler,'is' Bumper Trim,Rear heated seats,Rear blinds
Re: Door Handle Fix (E53)
Bloody typical! I have to read my own 'How To' to change my driver's side one...
Fyi for anyone wishing to get an original part - BMW Cotswold have quoted me £87 for one (local dealer is £97). Know some on eBay have proved to be useless in the past...
Fyi for anyone wishing to get an original part - BMW Cotswold have quoted me £87 for one (local dealer is £97). Know some on eBay have proved to be useless in the past...
Scn Protect,Alarm Chirp,Ashtray del,Sub install,IV2,Screens,PS2 Media,Chrome rings,Schnitzer pedals,Reverse cam,Silver Grills,F/mirrors,Comp Spkrs,Heated S/W,20"168s,Splash scn,Arches,Remap,LED Tails,ACS Spoiler,'is' Bumper Trim,Rear heated seats,Rear blinds
Re: Door Handle Fix (E53)
I bought a new carrier for £19. Worked a treat. I wouldn't waste the cash on the useless OEM one, neither will last too many winters due to the design flaw.
Re: Door Handle Fix (E53)
[quote="Pete"]
I bought a new carrier for £19. Worked a treat.
[/quote]
Got a link you could post up Pete?
I bought a new carrier for £19. Worked a treat.
[/quote]
Got a link you could post up Pete?
Scn Protect,Alarm Chirp,Ashtray del,Sub install,IV2,Screens,PS2 Media,Chrome rings,Schnitzer pedals,Reverse cam,Silver Grills,F/mirrors,Comp Spkrs,Heated S/W,20"168s,Splash scn,Arches,Remap,LED Tails,ACS Spoiler,'is' Bumper Trim,Rear heated seats,Rear blinds
- Insight G40
- Member
- Posts: 164
- Joined: Sun May 31, 2015 10:59 pm
- Location: Hampshire
Re: Door Handle Fix (E53)
Did anyone ever download this How-To as a PDF?
with photobucket removing third party hosting rights the images are no longer there.
with photobucket removing third party hosting rights the images are no longer there.
E53 Sept 2006 3.0D Sport
- sleepyfolk
- Member
- Posts: 452
- Joined: Fri Jun 06, 2014 12:07 am
Re: Door Handle Fix (E53)
Bear in mind that this is USA when referring to drivers side etc but the theory is the same. If you remove fuse 44 for the airbags and make sure you don't turn the ignition on you won't get any airbag warnings - thanks x5sport I think?!
I used a combination of this guide to remove the door panel: http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticle ... cement.htm
And the info from the xoutpost forum below:
E53 Broken Outside Door Handle Fix
Several weeks ago my driver's outside door handle stopped working. It would pull up but the door would not unlatch. Things got busy and I wasn't able to get around to fixing it until now. I lived with either having my wife open the door from the inside or holding the unlock button and rolling down the windows and reaching in. Luckily, the X5 is not a daily driver nowadays so this exercise was infrequent.
I did some research here and discovered that it was a fairly common problem. Thank goodness because I had pretty good information to follow. I bet that the cause of my problem was the same as it was for others and I ordered the part. I've got to give credit to X5 in AK and gregwx5 for their prior write ups. They were a huge help. gregwx5's instructions
Thread discussing this issue
I wanted to post some pictures and a few tips from my experience.
The part number is 51218243615. I got it from Morristown BMW for $73 including shipping to CA. They are a great dealership to buy from and a board sponsor. The part is pretty substantial and area that failed seems to be a hinged and spring part that comes apart. Nothing seem broken but it did not seem repairable, at least not to the point where I'd keep it. A new one is worth it.
The instructions to remove the door panel are on the home page. They are very good. A few notes:
Tools:
Snap-On trim removal tool (A wide flat bladed screwdriver could work too.)
Torx T20 head screwdriver for door panel screws
10mm socket for airbag screws
8mm socket for one bolt that holds the door handle on
Small hex head screwdriver to unbolt the carrier. (I can't remember the size.)
Medium Phillips head screwdriver to unscrew carrier
Tips:
The window switches need to come out. They pry out easily. There are three things plugged in. The white and smaller black plugs are released by swinging the basket handle over. That pops the plug out. The larger black plug has a slide out lock. Once slid out fully it will pop the plug out.
Don't forget to remove the puddle light on the underside of the door.
Once you have all the necessary screws removed and you're ready to pop the door panel off, go around the edge of the panel and gently pry it out. You will feel where the plastic fasteners are. Don't yank the panel off because there is one more thing to unhook before the panel will come free. There is a stiff cable attached to the inside door handle. That has a plastic piece that snaps into the inside door handle. There is a small tab that can be depressed from the inside door handle area. It should release easily. You can see the cable in the last photo. It is wrapped in foam.
In order to get the old carrier out you have to complete several steps.
Unbolt airbag. I did not unplug the battery nor did I unplug the airbag. I hung it with a bungee cord to keep it out of the way.
Peel back the foam on the inside of the door. Beware of sticky tar-like adhesive.
The black plastic plug that is on the side of the door is a pain to remove. There is an inner plug and an outer ring. The inner plug can be cut around with a razor blade and then pryed out. The out ring then prys out easily. I fought it a bit. See the the photo below.
Once the black plastic plug is out, you can access the hex head bolt that holds the carrier. It is on an angle. The picture attached will show where it is.
The plastic cover that surrounds the door lock needs to come off. Be careful you don't break one of the two tabs that are on the top and bottom. I started prying from the bottom and gently worked my way around and even pried from the keyhole.
To remove the old carrier:
Once that is off there you can unscrew the hex head bolt. The lock assembly will simply slide out.
To remove the door handle you have to remove the 8mm bolt. The handle needs to pull up and the right side where the 8mm bolt was slides downward out of where it is attached. Once that is out the front part can pivot out. The photo shows how it attaches to the carrier.
Remove rubber trim.
Unscrew small Phillips screw on the outside of the door handle.
Reach inside the door and pop the ball joint off. There is also a white collar that is snapped into a bracket. Pop that out too. You can now remove the old carrier.
Installing the new carrier is the reverse. Some tips for that:
The new carrier should come with the hex head bolt and Phillips screw attached.
It will take some patience and fiddling to get the new carrier in.
The ball joint snaps in easily but the white collar is a bit tougher since it's hard to get your hand into the door cavity. I used my Snap-On trim tool that is sort of U shaped to push it in. It takes a bit of pressure so press hard.
Re-attaching the door handle is fairly simple but it will be much easier if you push the carrier from behind. That will cant the handle up so you can insert the black end on the left and have clearance to twist it into place. I used the handle of a screwdriver to push on the carrier.
Putting on the door panel is quite easy. All wiring needs to be fed through and the inside door handle cable needs to be snapped back into place. You might want to order some new plastic fasteners. I broke two of them. Over time and with heat, these plastic bits become brittle and break easily. I broke one off after a light knock as I picked up the door panel. It is worth it to have a few handy.
One other thing to watch out for:
For some reason my lock was acting funny afterwards. I could lock and unlock it but it would not unlock the other doors. I fiddled with it by manipulating the lock pin and while lifting the outside door handle. I don't know what was wrong but doing this seemed to fix it.
That's about it. It was a moderately difficult job but very satisfying. You really take the act of opening your door for granted.
See the pictures attached.
Thanks again to X5world and the guys who have written about this before.
Attached Images
I used a combination of this guide to remove the door panel: http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticle ... cement.htm
And the info from the xoutpost forum below:
E53 Broken Outside Door Handle Fix
Several weeks ago my driver's outside door handle stopped working. It would pull up but the door would not unlatch. Things got busy and I wasn't able to get around to fixing it until now. I lived with either having my wife open the door from the inside or holding the unlock button and rolling down the windows and reaching in. Luckily, the X5 is not a daily driver nowadays so this exercise was infrequent.
I did some research here and discovered that it was a fairly common problem. Thank goodness because I had pretty good information to follow. I bet that the cause of my problem was the same as it was for others and I ordered the part. I've got to give credit to X5 in AK and gregwx5 for their prior write ups. They were a huge help. gregwx5's instructions
Thread discussing this issue
I wanted to post some pictures and a few tips from my experience.
The part number is 51218243615. I got it from Morristown BMW for $73 including shipping to CA. They are a great dealership to buy from and a board sponsor. The part is pretty substantial and area that failed seems to be a hinged and spring part that comes apart. Nothing seem broken but it did not seem repairable, at least not to the point where I'd keep it. A new one is worth it.
The instructions to remove the door panel are on the home page. They are very good. A few notes:
Tools:
Snap-On trim removal tool (A wide flat bladed screwdriver could work too.)
Torx T20 head screwdriver for door panel screws
10mm socket for airbag screws
8mm socket for one bolt that holds the door handle on
Small hex head screwdriver to unbolt the carrier. (I can't remember the size.)
Medium Phillips head screwdriver to unscrew carrier
Tips:
The window switches need to come out. They pry out easily. There are three things plugged in. The white and smaller black plugs are released by swinging the basket handle over. That pops the plug out. The larger black plug has a slide out lock. Once slid out fully it will pop the plug out.
Don't forget to remove the puddle light on the underside of the door.
Once you have all the necessary screws removed and you're ready to pop the door panel off, go around the edge of the panel and gently pry it out. You will feel where the plastic fasteners are. Don't yank the panel off because there is one more thing to unhook before the panel will come free. There is a stiff cable attached to the inside door handle. That has a plastic piece that snaps into the inside door handle. There is a small tab that can be depressed from the inside door handle area. It should release easily. You can see the cable in the last photo. It is wrapped in foam.
In order to get the old carrier out you have to complete several steps.
Unbolt airbag. I did not unplug the battery nor did I unplug the airbag. I hung it with a bungee cord to keep it out of the way.
Peel back the foam on the inside of the door. Beware of sticky tar-like adhesive.
The black plastic plug that is on the side of the door is a pain to remove. There is an inner plug and an outer ring. The inner plug can be cut around with a razor blade and then pryed out. The out ring then prys out easily. I fought it a bit. See the the photo below.
Once the black plastic plug is out, you can access the hex head bolt that holds the carrier. It is on an angle. The picture attached will show where it is.
The plastic cover that surrounds the door lock needs to come off. Be careful you don't break one of the two tabs that are on the top and bottom. I started prying from the bottom and gently worked my way around and even pried from the keyhole.
To remove the old carrier:
Once that is off there you can unscrew the hex head bolt. The lock assembly will simply slide out.
To remove the door handle you have to remove the 8mm bolt. The handle needs to pull up and the right side where the 8mm bolt was slides downward out of where it is attached. Once that is out the front part can pivot out. The photo shows how it attaches to the carrier.
Remove rubber trim.
Unscrew small Phillips screw on the outside of the door handle.
Reach inside the door and pop the ball joint off. There is also a white collar that is snapped into a bracket. Pop that out too. You can now remove the old carrier.
Installing the new carrier is the reverse. Some tips for that:
The new carrier should come with the hex head bolt and Phillips screw attached.
It will take some patience and fiddling to get the new carrier in.
The ball joint snaps in easily but the white collar is a bit tougher since it's hard to get your hand into the door cavity. I used my Snap-On trim tool that is sort of U shaped to push it in. It takes a bit of pressure so press hard.
Re-attaching the door handle is fairly simple but it will be much easier if you push the carrier from behind. That will cant the handle up so you can insert the black end on the left and have clearance to twist it into place. I used the handle of a screwdriver to push on the carrier.
Putting on the door panel is quite easy. All wiring needs to be fed through and the inside door handle cable needs to be snapped back into place. You might want to order some new plastic fasteners. I broke two of them. Over time and with heat, these plastic bits become brittle and break easily. I broke one off after a light knock as I picked up the door panel. It is worth it to have a few handy.
One other thing to watch out for:
For some reason my lock was acting funny afterwards. I could lock and unlock it but it would not unlock the other doors. I fiddled with it by manipulating the lock pin and while lifting the outside door handle. I don't know what was wrong but doing this seemed to fix it.
That's about it. It was a moderately difficult job but very satisfying. You really take the act of opening your door for granted.
See the pictures attached.
Thanks again to X5world and the guys who have written about this before.
Attached Images
Last edited by sleepyfolk on Mon Sep 04, 2017 1:22 am, edited 1 time in total.
E53 X5 4.6is Carbon Black 2003
Mercedes CLK 320
Audi A6 Quattro 2.4
Mercedes CLK 320
Audi A6 Quattro 2.4
Re: Door Handle Fix (E53)
Is somebody a mind reader on here.
My driver side went on Saturday.
Been looking for a how-too but all the pictures where missing in the ones i found.
Big Big thanks to sleepyfolk for that one.
My driver side went on Saturday.
Been looking for a how-too but all the pictures where missing in the ones i found.
Big Big thanks to sleepyfolk for that one.
Last edited by Alan Gunn on Mon Sep 04, 2017 12:55 pm, edited 1 time in total.